Hello, to start off, I have a 97 civic dx and i am putting a eg subframe and a eg cx manual rack. The subframe/lca/swaybars have around 100k on them. The rack has around 220k. I did a bit research and also read my chiltons manual which shows step by step on how to replace everything.

Now heres the question: I will get the rack next week so i dont' have it or seen it yet, but i am thinking that while its out, i should replace certain things.
I know that most likely i'll need:

Inner tie rods
out tie rods along with new bushings.
rack end busing.
maybe also the pinion and guide,washer and dust seal.

I am afraid of if i also would need to replace the steering rack??

Cost wise it if i had to replace everything including steering rack(no.9 and 7 in pic) it would be $250 for just parts(which includes everything) Alternative is to buy a rebuilt one for around 200 or so from autozone. I need some opinions as this is my first time working on the rack. Thanks





Modified by makavali27 at 9:48 PM 11/3/2007

 

bump because i put the same thread on tech/misc and didn't get no replies

 

well the whole idea of rebuilding something is to get it done for cheap! it sounds like that if you replace everything its gonna new and your gonna send more money then you would if you just bought the one from autozone. so i would get the 1 from autozone because that way if anything goes wrong with it you can return it and if you fix it your self you most likely to mess something up and have to spend more money trying to fix it agian. and you cant return parts you install your self

 

I rather have a oem rack than one off autozone. Also just replacing inner and out tie rods and the tie rod end busing is not a problem. I just wanted to know if having 220k, should the pinion and steering rack (no.7 and no.9) need also to be changed? If not then i'll just replace the tie rods and busings and call it a day. I would like to stick with oem when it comes to things like these.

 

im sorry but i am totally confused/lost here..

WHAT is he trying to do...use a EK frame and a eg body or what?? sorry to sound stupid but can someone clarify this please.

 

the subframe and rack is off a eg, using it on a ek hatch.

 

bump, how do people feel about ebay tie rods?

 

I'm getting ready to do a rebuild on a PS rack and am also wondering how far to go. I got a used rack out of a wreck with under 100K on it, so I don't expect that the rack or pinion will need to be replaced.

- I'm definitely changing the rack bushings
- I'm definitely NOT changing the rack ends
- I have already replaced the tie rod ends w/ MOOG units that have a grease nipple on them.
- I am on the fence about replacing the pinion bushings and seals.


Regarding the rebuilt Autozone rack, I've had some horrendous luck with rebuilt parts from discount chains, mostly with rebuilt axles. They use the lowest quality parts available and, in some cases, I question whether all "replaceable' parts are being replaced.

 

I second thaT! I went through so many autozone axles it was unbelievable! I would get about 3,000 miles out of them before they (both the drive axles) would literally take a **** when pullin out from a stop sign. The only reason why I kept on using them was because they were lifetime guarenteed and every time one would break I would take both of the axles out and exchange them for new ones till I got aftermarket axles that could handle the power/torque.

As for the rack, I would definatly change the inner and outer tie-rod ends and the rack bushings. unless the rack came out of a collision car, then I wouldn't worry about rebuilding the whole rack and pinion. I went through a couple racks on my DA when it got wrecked. I figured out the front and rear sub-frames buckled and the radius rod, LCA's, and the steering rack got bent because when the car got wrecked before my dad got it, there was damage to the sub-frames that never got repaired. Because I was in a pinch for a new rack I found a rack in a 1990 CRX Si that had 245,000 miles on it. I replaced the inner and outer tie-rod ends, put it in with the polyurethane bushings and it was good to go. No play or anything like that because of high milage