I installed a Fluidyne Rad the other day and since then my car idles kinda high, around 1 grand used to be about 700. Seems like its idling high because the Temp gauge is plunged on cold, kinda seems like the ECU is thinking the engine is just started.

This normal? Should I even be concerned?

 

have you bled the coolant system properly?

i also noticed when replacing a stock rad with a koyo that while moving over 30mph, the temp gauge sits at COLD. but around town, stop and go, the needle moves up slightly.


i think its time for a different thermostat also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you bled the coolant system properly?

i also noticed when replacing a stock rad with a koyo that while moving over 30mph, the temp gauge sits at COLD. but around town, stop and go, the needle moves up slightly.


i think its time for a different thermostat also. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x10000

9/10 out of ten no one bleed there coolant afterwards

 

I did bleed the system atleast the way I know popping the rad cap to see if any bubbles come up. Whats the proper way if you dont mind me asking?

The temp gauge does go up after idling for a while like 5-10 mins, takes a long time since new rad. But yes its stuck on cold if Im driving around "also temps in Pa hitting 40-50's now"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CWBETB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did bleed the system atleast the way I know popping the rad cap to see if any bubbles come up. Whats the proper way if you dont mind me asking?

The temp gauge does go up after idling for a while like 5-10 mins, takes a long time since new rad. But yes its stuck on cold if Im driving around "also temps in Pa hitting 40-50's now"</TD></TR></TABLE>


there is a bleeder screw on the head near the thermostat.


if its that cold, your needle will probably not move. that radiator works too good for the engine to come up in temperature. that's usually why koyo and fluidyne call these "RACE" radiators.

 

Thanks....

Also did a little researching on HT, seems like one way to bleed it is the way I do it, run the car with heater on, rad cap off, till it gets pretty warm.

One thing I didnt do was squeeze the Hoses which Ill do tomorow. I always thought if I had air bubbles the temp gauge would shoot up to hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CWBETB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks....

Also did a little researching on HT, seems like one way to bleed it is the way I do it, run the car with heater on, rad cap off, till it gets pretty warm.

One thing I didnt do was squeeze the Hoses which Ill do tomorow. I always thought if I had air bubbles the temp gauge would shoot up to hot. </TD></TR></TABLE>


that's incorrect.


you bleed it through the "bleeder valve" near the thermostat. leave the radiator cap on.

 

Thanks for the help