Camber kit differences
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From: Buckeye Country, United States
I have 97 Accord with Eibach Pro kit (black) springs and Tokico HP (blue) shocks/struts. I am about 2-3" lower than stock. I know camber isn't required, but was thinking about possibly getting one. While searching, mostly eBay to get easy look at them, I came across some rear camber kits. A few companies (Megan Racing and Wicked Tuning) have rear camber kits that are straight bars with some adjustments available. Ingall's has a rear kit that has a bent arm, they call it "smart arm". Is that for lower cars or offer any advantages? Also what are the main differences in the bushings? I noticed Ingall's offers one kit that has rubber bushings and one that offers polyurethane bushings. What is the difference between these? Any advantages?
Also does anyone have any experience with the Megan Racing or Wicked Tuning kits?
Also does anyone have any experience with the Megan Racing or Wicked Tuning kits?
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
First question I have to ask is how are you 2-3" lower than stock with only Pro Kit springs?
Also, check the applications for those rear camber kits you were looking at. A straight arm with a bushing at one end a perpendicular bar with 2 holes on the other end, with turnbuckle-style adjustment in the middle is for Integras and Civics. Accords have a completely different rear suspension setup, with upright knuckles and upper controls arms in the rear similar to what's in the front.
Also, check the applications for those rear camber kits you were looking at. A straight arm with a bushing at one end a perpendicular bar with 2 holes on the other end, with turnbuckle-style adjustment in the middle is for Integras and Civics. Accords have a completely different rear suspension setup, with upright knuckles and upper controls arms in the rear similar to what's in the front.
I can answer about the bushings at least. I am in the same boat on the camber kits though. Polyurethane bushings and better than rubber bushings for the most part. Rubber is enviromentally vulnerable in that when it is cold out, it is stiff and when it is warm it is soft. This means the handling on your car will vary with the weather. Also rubber will break down and has to replaced about every 4-5 years. Urethane will not vary in consistancy with the weather, it will maintain and even consistancy. Also it will never break down. That said it is stiffer and will pass along more of the ride to the driver. It can also get incredibly squeaky if you don't install it properly with the right lube.
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From: Buckeye Country, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First question I have to ask is how are you 2-3" lower than stock with only Pro Kit springs?.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm just guessing, I don't know for sure. That's why I gave my setup so that someone might be able to tell me how low I might be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, check the applications for those rear camber kits you were looking at. A straight arm with a bushing at one end a perpendicular bar with 2 holes on the other end, with turnbuckle-style adjustment in the middle is for Integras and Civics. Accords have a completely different rear suspension setup, with upright knuckles and upper controls arms in the rear similar to what's in the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The rear camber kits I have seen from the various companies showed bent arm(Ingall's) and straight arm (Wicked Tuning and Megan Racing). So are they just showing a sample picture and not neccessarrily the exact product?
When I get home from work I'll post the pictures I found and maybe that will help decipher this.
I'm just guessing, I don't know for sure. That's why I gave my setup so that someone might be able to tell me how low I might be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, check the applications for those rear camber kits you were looking at. A straight arm with a bushing at one end a perpendicular bar with 2 holes on the other end, with turnbuckle-style adjustment in the middle is for Integras and Civics. Accords have a completely different rear suspension setup, with upright knuckles and upper controls arms in the rear similar to what's in the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The rear camber kits I have seen from the various companies showed bent arm(Ingall's) and straight arm (Wicked Tuning and Megan Racing). So are they just showing a sample picture and not neccessarrily the exact product?
When I get home from work I'll post the pictures I found and maybe that will help decipher this.
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Megan Racing for 90-97 Accord as seen on their website.
The Wicked Tuning can be seen here on their site. (about 2/3 down page)
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38810.htm
The Ingall's can be seen here on their site.
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38810.htm
The Wicked Tuning can be seen here on their site. (about 2/3 down page)
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38810.htm
The Ingall's can be seen here on their site.
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38810.htm
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
okay yeah those are for Accords since it has a ball joint for the top of the upright knuckle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sol Cross »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can answer about the bushings at least. I am in the same boat on the camber kits though. Polyurethane bushings and better than rubber bushings for the most part. Rubber is enviromentally vulnerable in that when it is cold out, it is stiff and when it is warm it is soft. This means the handling on your car will vary with the weather. Also rubber will break down and has to replaced about every 4-5 years. Urethane will not vary in consistancy with the weather, it will maintain and even consistancy. Also it will never break down. That said it is stiffer and will pass along more of the ride to the driver. It can also get incredibly squeaky if you don't install it properly with the right lube. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I and several others here would disagree with you on that. I've seen pictures of polyurethane suspension bushings, mainly control arm bushings, after only a couple of years of street use. Even with proper lubrication the bushings are completely shot, and allow TONS of freeplay in the suspension. Even my shifter bushings, which isn't a load bearing part like control arm bushings, were shot and crumbling after 5 years.
My car is 13 years old with 258K miles, and the original rubber control arm bushings aren't completely shot. Yes there is some dry rot in some areas and they could probably stand to be replaced, but still, that's 13 years vs. only 2 years. OEM rubber bushings are going to last longer with daily driven street use than polyurethane.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sol Cross »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can answer about the bushings at least. I am in the same boat on the camber kits though. Polyurethane bushings and better than rubber bushings for the most part. Rubber is enviromentally vulnerable in that when it is cold out, it is stiff and when it is warm it is soft. This means the handling on your car will vary with the weather. Also rubber will break down and has to replaced about every 4-5 years. Urethane will not vary in consistancy with the weather, it will maintain and even consistancy. Also it will never break down. That said it is stiffer and will pass along more of the ride to the driver. It can also get incredibly squeaky if you don't install it properly with the right lube. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I and several others here would disagree with you on that. I've seen pictures of polyurethane suspension bushings, mainly control arm bushings, after only a couple of years of street use. Even with proper lubrication the bushings are completely shot, and allow TONS of freeplay in the suspension. Even my shifter bushings, which isn't a load bearing part like control arm bushings, were shot and crumbling after 5 years.
My car is 13 years old with 258K miles, and the original rubber control arm bushings aren't completely shot. Yes there is some dry rot in some areas and they could probably stand to be replaced, but still, that's 13 years vs. only 2 years. OEM rubber bushings are going to last longer with daily driven street use than polyurethane.
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From: Buckeye Country, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay yeah those are for Accords since it has a ball joint for the top of the upright knuckle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what's the difference between the Ingalls (bent) and the others (straight)? Is one for vehicles that are lower than others? Any advantages? If all kits are about the same, the Wicked Tuning looks more stout than the Megan Racing. Just looking for some Pros and Cons from anyone that has experience with them or any advantages to the Ingalls bent arm over the Wicked Tuning straight arm.
*edit*
Experience and such doesn't have to come from a CD owner, anyone that has used any of these applications will do.
Modified by BBallz24 at 8:16 AM 11/3/2007
So what's the difference between the Ingalls (bent) and the others (straight)? Is one for vehicles that are lower than others? Any advantages? If all kits are about the same, the Wicked Tuning looks more stout than the Megan Racing. Just looking for some Pros and Cons from anyone that has experience with them or any advantages to the Ingalls bent arm over the Wicked Tuning straight arm.
*edit*
Experience and such doesn't have to come from a CD owner, anyone that has used any of these applications will do.
Modified by BBallz24 at 8:16 AM 11/3/2007
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