WHAT SHOULD I BE CHANGING B4 THA MOTOR GOES IN THE CAR?

 

The caps lock key off?

What do you mean, you arn't giving enough info? Like a freshinging of the motor or what's needed to swap?

 

like timing belt and manifold. someone told me i might have problems changing it after the motor is in....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roberts88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like timing belt and manifold. someone told me i might have problems changing it after the motor is in....</TD></TR></TABLE> Timing belt, water and oil pump arn't a bad idea before you swap it in your car.

 

Don't forget to pound your frame in just below the driver sside shock tower for alternator clearance. Also be sure you aren't using the gsr driver side engine bracket.you have to use an obd0 ls or b16a bracket or the mount won't line up. Also lol, on the front crossmember where the tranny mount would be on a stock d series that bracket has to be removed

 

how much do oil pumps usually run? and the guy whos swaping the motor is recommending that i get the cross member for the lower subframe he highly recommends this. It allows for the headers to clear properly.

 

the car had an ls b18b so that front mount and the fram rail have already been done or smashed and cut.

 

oil pumps arn't too bad around 150 at most for a honda one.

An after market X member is a great idea, if you can afford it.

 

Yes traction bars are a great idea.

 

doin same project this winter good luck man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roberts88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like timing belt and manifold. someone told me i might have problems changing it after the motor is in....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, yes. Changing those while the engine is on a stand is infinitely easier than doing it once it's in the bay.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roberts88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much do oil pumps usually run? and the guy whos swaping the motor is recommending that i get the cross member for the lower subframe he highly recommends this. It allows for the headers to clear properly.
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Depends on which oil pump you're running. Usually around $100 or so. I would recommend a traction bar if you're going turbo. Otherwise, leave it as is if it's been cut and re-welded for a B-series motor header.

 

what type of wiring are you going to have obd0 or obd1? I highly recommend upgrading to obd1. Front crossmember is recommended but not needed if you are running the stock header. Good luck with the project, i have a b18c right now and man do i love it!

 

i believe he is doin obd 1. but not sure thats good question i will ask him.

 

Also are you looking to getting the car ref'd by the state for smog issueS?