H22 in '95 Accord EX Help
I've got a '95 Accord with a little bit of rod-knock. I was unable to source a F22 for a decent price (but found an OBD1 H22 for a good price -- Yippie!).
So, I'm tracking down all the things I need. I was looking for some clarification on some things to make sure I don't get this swap started w/o parts I need or buy sh*t I don't need.
I'm getting an H22 longblock w/o intake or exhaust manifolds. So, I need everything there. I've been reading up and see that the F22 TB is usable (but smaller), so, I plan on having the stock F22 TB bored (Max-Bore). The other benefit I've gathered from this is that I'll get to keep my Cruise functionality.
I've HEARD that the F22 VTEC harness that I have will be Plug n Play. Any truth to this? Or, should I invest in a H22 harness?
What distributors will I be able to use?
I've got to get a Driver's side Prelude mount, Prelude Rad Hoses, vac lines, etc.
Is there anything I'm missing for the swap?
So, I'm tracking down all the things I need. I was looking for some clarification on some things to make sure I don't get this swap started w/o parts I need or buy sh*t I don't need.
I'm getting an H22 longblock w/o intake or exhaust manifolds. So, I need everything there. I've been reading up and see that the F22 TB is usable (but smaller), so, I plan on having the stock F22 TB bored (Max-Bore). The other benefit I've gathered from this is that I'll get to keep my Cruise functionality.
I've HEARD that the F22 VTEC harness that I have will be Plug n Play. Any truth to this? Or, should I invest in a H22 harness?
What distributors will I be able to use?
I've got to get a Driver's side Prelude mount, Prelude Rad Hoses, vac lines, etc.
Is there anything I'm missing for the swap?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_Rock77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a '95 Accord with a little bit of rod-knock. I was unable to source a F22 for a decent price (but found an OBD1 H22 for a good price -- Yippie!).
So, I'm tracking down all the things I need. I was looking for some clarification on some things to make sure I don't get this swap started w/o parts I need or buy sh*t I don't need.
I'm getting an H22 longblock w/o intake or exhaust manifolds. So, I need everything there. I've been reading up and see that the F22 TB is usable (but smaller), so, I plan on having the stock F22 TB bored (Max-Bore). The other benefit I've gathered from this is that I'll get to keep my Cruise functionality.
I've HEARD that the F22 VTEC harness that I have will be Plug n Play. Any truth to this? Or, should I invest in a H22 harness?
What distributors will I be able to use?
I've got to get a Driver's side Prelude mount, Prelude Rad Hoses, vac lines, etc.
Is there anything I'm missing for the swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can get you a f22b sohc vtec or f22 DOHC for 645 plus about 325 shipping to Arkansas
So, I'm tracking down all the things I need. I was looking for some clarification on some things to make sure I don't get this swap started w/o parts I need or buy sh*t I don't need.
I'm getting an H22 longblock w/o intake or exhaust manifolds. So, I need everything there. I've been reading up and see that the F22 TB is usable (but smaller), so, I plan on having the stock F22 TB bored (Max-Bore). The other benefit I've gathered from this is that I'll get to keep my Cruise functionality.
I've HEARD that the F22 VTEC harness that I have will be Plug n Play. Any truth to this? Or, should I invest in a H22 harness?
What distributors will I be able to use?
I've got to get a Driver's side Prelude mount, Prelude Rad Hoses, vac lines, etc.
Is there anything I'm missing for the swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can get you a f22b sohc vtec or f22 DOHC for 645 plus about 325 shipping to Arkansas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bseriescrxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i can get you a f22b sohc vtec or f22 DOHC for 645 plus about 325 shipping to Arkansas</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL....Got a H22 for less than that!....thanks anyway.
Can anyone help me out w/ the swap?
i can get you a f22b sohc vtec or f22 DOHC for 645 plus about 325 shipping to Arkansas</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL....Got a H22 for less than that!....thanks anyway.
Can anyone help me out w/ the swap?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickoz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awsome find on the H22!!! Wish i could find a cheap one like that for the new year!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Funny thing is.....I was just looking to get something to get it RUNNING. All the F22s I found were right around this price. Granted....I'll have to spend a LITTLE more to get the H22 into the Accord......But it's an H22!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twixle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">95% you have to repin the ECU for this swap. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does it have to be re-pinned? or could I go w/ a chipped ECU?
Funny thing is.....I was just looking to get something to get it RUNNING. All the F22s I found were right around this price. Granted....I'll have to spend a LITTLE more to get the H22 into the Accord......But it's an H22!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twixle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">95% you have to repin the ECU for this swap. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does it have to be re-pinned? or could I go w/ a chipped ECU?
I'm sure you could run a prelude ECU. As far as chipping - really not much point in running chipped unless you have an auto or forced induction. I wouldn't recommend getting a chipped ECU at all actually rereading your original post. No one's going to have a program for an H22 with F22 IM and TB. One other thing, if I were you I'd go ahead and just swap all the prelude motor mounts in, they're stiffer and less apt to break under the amazing power of the H
But seriously, get them.
But seriously, get them.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twixle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sure you could run a prelude ECU. As far as chipping - really not much point in running chipped unless you have an auto or forced induction. I wouldn't recommend getting a chipped ECU at all actually rereading your original post. No one's going to have a program for an H22 with F22 IM and TB. One other thing, if I were you I'd go ahead and just swap all the prelude motor mounts in, they're stiffer and less apt to break under the amazing power of the H
But seriously, get them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My car's an auto.....that was the reason I was looking into getting a chipped ECU. As for running the F22 IM, I'm not. I'm running H22 IM w/ F22 TB (bored). People tell me it'll work.
But seriously, get them. </TD></TR></TABLE>My car's an auto.....that was the reason I was looking into getting a chipped ECU. As for running the F22 IM, I'm not. I'm running H22 IM w/ F22 TB (bored). People tell me it'll work.
you will need to swap pins a6 and a11 at the ecu. the pins are not the same size so you will need to cut and resolder them together. as far as the t/b yes a maxbore t/b will work just fine. make sure to use either both the rear tranny mount AND bracket from the prelude OR accord. DON'T TRY TO MIX THESE!!!! i.e. prelude rear mount and accord rear bracket or prelude bracket and accord mount. they will not work that way. the drivers side mount needs to be a prelude mount that has the center bushing shaved down, use a die grinder or belt sander, so that it will slip into the accord chassis or you can get the mount from hasport for $149 or from rywire for $139. front mount will need to be all accord. passenger side tranny will be the accord since you are staying auto. also the harness will work from your f22 but you will need to run the knock sensor wire from the ecu to the knock, unless you run a chipped p28 or p06 or hondata of some sort. iat, iacv and oil sending unit wires will need to be extended for re-routing or if you feel froggy you can split the loom and move the wires around in the harness. as far as the dizzy goes to make it easy on you get a jdm h22 or h23 internal coil dizzy that way it will be a plug and play if not you will have to convert to and external coil which is pretty simple but more wiring than necessary. radiator hoses from the accord will work fine for the h22. heater hose for the passenger side of the head will need to be replaced with a longer piece from the parts store. while your at it go ahead and do the manual tensioner conversion from the h23 for the timing belt, auto tensioners are notorius for failing. if i think of anything else i'll hit you back. any more questions just ask i've done 6 of these swaps already, auto and 5 speed.
Modified by turbowagon94 at 6:46 PM 10/30/2007
Modified by turbowagon94 at 6:46 PM 10/30/2007
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Dec 23, 2003 07:46 AM




