hey guys! 00' civic ex D16 2dr

the basics of the problem:

you go to start it and it makes this awful clicking sound (very loud and very fast clicking).

you can pop-start the car and get to where you need to go. and its not for sure that it will fail every time. some times the car starts right up without any problems. some times it will make an attempt to start, but won't, and then go right back to clicking like crazy.

i believe its the alternator. does anybody agree or disagree? this needs to be fixed asap, because i cant have my girl getting stuck in boston late at night trying to pop-start her car.

thank you for any assistance. i've been doing some research, and this is as far as i've made it.

 

If you have a multimeter (they are cheap) and take two readings.

Take a reading with the engine off. It should be at about 12V.

Take a reading with the engine on (all other electrical off). It should be about 14V.

This will also narrow down the problem if it's with the battery or alternator. If it's charging at 14+V, you should be fine. If it's like 13V, then it may be weak and start thinking about replacing it. If both are fine, then let's move on and continue to find the problem.

 

so if i'm only getting ~13V, you think thats too little of power to get the motor started?

say it is the alternator at this point, and i'm only getting ~13V....whats going on inside the alternator to make it produce that very loud clicking?

...or can you not determine what it is, because you dont know for sure if its the alternator making that sound?

...and thank you!

 

If you're trying to start it and its making a fast clicking sound, sources lead me to believe thats the starter, not alternator..

 

if alternator meter reads ok..it could be your starter,,or main relay

 

"If you're trying to start it and its making a fast clicking sound, sources lead me to believe thats the starter, not alternator.. "

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flamega &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if i'm only getting ~13V, you think thats too little of power to get the motor started?

say it is the alternator at this point, and i'm only getting ~13V....whats going on inside the alternator to make it produce that very loud clicking?

...or can you not determine what it is, because you dont know for sure if its the alternator making that sound?

...and thank you! </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are getting ~13V the alt is still "charging" because it's more than 12V. But it's a weak charge. And I would not let a girl drive at night in a bad hood with the lights, AC, and radio on. If you were driving, I would start looking for a replacement, not grounding the car.

Here is more info to read. It's hard to tell what sound your car is making without clip. Does it sound like this?

http://www.carbasics.co.uk/How...r.htm

There is a youtube video with sound on the bottom.

 

true the starter does make a ticking sound, but this is different. the starter makes a slower, quieter sound.

tick....tick....tick....tick

this is like.....

TICK..TICK..TICK..TICK..TICK

anyway, i have no sound on this computer at work, so i have to listen to the you tube video you posted a little bit later. i will get back to you. but the video shows the alternator running......this motor i'm referring to doesnt even get the chance to turn over.

i have to do more research. keep the info coming though....much appreciated. and if i find anything else out, i will post on here.

p.s. at least i found out that autozone does in car inspections of the alternator, starter, battery, and voltage regulator. i'll have her bring the car there while i'm still at work. its free!

 

Do any of the lights in the car go dim or flicker while driving? Does the car ever die while driving?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ItsSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do any of the lights in the car go dim or flicker while driving? Does the car ever die while driving?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope. once the car is started, it runs fine. she says it has been sluggish, but she just wants me to install some afternmarket parts...LoL.

but for ***** and giggles, what if the car was feeling a little sluggish also? (dont waste too much time on this question. i dont think it has to do with the problem at hand.)

thanks

 

A fast clicking noise is consistent with the noise made when a battery that doesn't have enough juice and trying to start the car.

Sounds like the battery is low on juice, but it may be the battery and/or the alternator too.

It's hard to get an accurate reading on an alternator's output if your battery is going dead, so IMO start with the cheaper of the two - buy a new battery.

Even if you still need an alternator chances are that current battery was going to **** out anyways because the alternator wasn't fully charging it.

 

Its not the alternator if it runs fine after its started.. An alternator is there to keep the battery charged, which from the sounds of it, thats what its doing..

Id do like crazyguy said and check your main relay.. Also, check the wiring to the starter and make sure there arent any shorts in it and make sure its all tight..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A fast clicking noise is consistent with the noise made when a battery that doesn't have enough juice and trying to start the car.

Sounds like the battery is low on juice, but it may be the battery and/or the alternator too.

It's hard to get an accurate reading on an alternator's output if your battery is going dead, so IMO start with the cheaper of the two - buy a new battery.

Even if you still need an alternator chances are that current battery was going to **** out anyways because the alternator wasn't fully charging it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1.. You said you could jump start it and it would run, correct? Do you mean, push it and pop the clutch (Ive seen it been used this way) or hoooking the cables up and starting it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ItsSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you mean, push it and pop the clutch or hoooking the cables up and starting it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

pop the clutch off a role.

so you guys think its the battery huh. that would make sence. one of the recent failures she had, she mentioned something along the lines of everything dying relatively fast, after the car wouldnt start right away. i didnt even think of the battery being the problem.

so the battery simply might not be supplying the alternator enough juice to get it turned over...?

no kid'n!

until i look into this a little further and get back to you, i want to thank you guys for your quick responces.

thanks guys!

 

Check the battery cables/terminals and make sure the cable ends are tight and cannot be wiggled whatsoever on the battery terminals. Loose cables will cause no starts too.

 

are your battery terminals corroded. corroded termianls will cause high resistance and no start too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flamega &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pop the clutch off a role.

so you guys think its the battery huh. that would make sence. one of the recent failures she had, she mentioned something along the lines of everything dying relatively fast, after the car wouldnt start right away. i didnt even think of the battery being the problem.

so the battery simply might not be supplying the alternator enough juice to get it turned over...?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, the alternator suppplies the battery with power which supplies the engine with power which supplies the alternator.. Its a circle of **** happening..

 

what i think it is is the battery not having enough juice to get the alternator to turn over. i'm going to autozone today and having them check it. the only reason i'm not checking it myself with a volt meter is, autozone is closer then my house...LoL.

like i said, i'll keep you guys posted on the results.

thanks again guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flamega &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i think it is is the battery not having enough juice to get the alternator to turn over. i'm going to autozone today and having them check it. the only reason i'm not checking it myself with a volt meter is, autozone is closer then my house...LoL.

like i said, i'll keep you guys posted on the results.

thanks again guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you'll be asking Auto Zone to properly diagnose your situation, but they have avested interest in telling you that you need an alternator AND a battery since they happen to sell both of those there!

WHAT EVER YOU DO DO NOT BUY ANY PARTS STORES ALTERNATOR!!!

Buy a Denso alternator - OE without the "Honda" on the box, and still affordable. I'm sure a google search will yield enough sellers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Buy a Denso alternator - OE without the "Honda" on the box, and still affordable. I'm sure a google search will yield enough sellers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear what you are saying. Are the "OE without the Honda" the same as "OE with the Honda?" 100% same. Just the box is different? Just want to confirm for my FYI.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I hear what you are saying. Are the "OE without the Honda" the same as "OE with the Honda?" 100% same. Just the box is different? Just want to confirm for my FYI.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes in most applications Denso actually makes the OE in the box Honda/Acura alternators. Some of the models had Mitsuba/Mitsuboshi units, and the shitty Delphi crap found its way to all 98-01 V6 Accords, but Denso made almost every Civic/Integra alternator since the late 80's.

Try shining a light on your stock Honda alternator and you'll probably even see a Denso sticker still on it. If it doesn't say Denso then it will probably say "Mitsuboshi." If Denso offers a replacement for your car, buy one.




Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 10:50 AM 10/30/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the battery cables/terminals and make sure the cable ends are tight and cannot be wiggled whatsoever on the battery terminals. Loose cables will cause no starts too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHAT EVER YOU DO DO NOT BUY ANY PARTS STORES ALTERNATOR!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

My sentiments exactly.

 

phewwww! well thanks for that information. i might have bought an alternator at the store. (but hopefully its still just the battery) i didnt think of the different kinds of alternators. alternators are kinda new to me. so i thank you guys very much.

do you guys have any problem with me buying the battery that autozone supplies? any preferance there?

and real quick.....to test the battery, its just a simple volt meter check to make sure it has the right amount of output right? and if i rev the car while testing with the volt meter, should the voltage pretty much stay the same?

i just dont want the dude at autozone to scam me into a new battery if i dont really need one.

thanks again guys

 

like everyone has said it sounds like your battery but you have a few things in your logic of how the system works wrong the alternator has nothing to do with the car starting it is simply to charge the battery. The tic tic sound you are hearing is the solenoid firing for the starter and there is either not enough voltage in the battery to turn the starter or the started is bad. like already posted check the battery voltage with a DMM tit should be 12volts or higher. Have someone try and start the car if battery voltage drops below 11 volts it is more then likely the battery. Once the car is running check the battery again if the alternator is charging the battery it should over 13volts. If it isn't then the alternator is not charging the battery.

Edit: either the battery or alternator being bad can cause damage to the other unit. It is best to have both tested. Also if you have to change the alternator it is a bit of work it has to come out through the bottom of the car and the drive shaft is in the way.It will have to be unhooked and moved out of the way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like everyone has said it sounds like your battery but you have a few things in your logic of how the system works wrong the alternator has nothing to do with the car starting it is simply to charge the battery. The tic tic sound you are hearing is the solenoid firing for the starter and there is either not enough voltage in the battery to turn the starter or the started is bad. like already posted check the battery voltage with a DMM tit should be 12volts or higher. Have someone try and start the car if battery voltage drops below 11 volts it is more then likely the battery. Once the car is running check the battery again if the alternator is charging the battery it should over 13volts. If it isn't then the alternator is not charging the battery.

Edit: either the battery or alternator being bad can cause damage to the other unit. It is best to have both tested. Also if you have to change the alternator it is a bit of work it has to come out through the bottom of the car and the drive shaft is in the way.It will have to be unhooked and moved out of the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you guys will have to excuse me here for a moment. this is between "instructor 74" and myself.

correct me if i am wrong....

the battery supplies voltage to everything.
the ignition switch (car key) tells the starter relay to engage.

voltage then travels from the battery, through the starter switch, and goes where....???

i thought voltage travels from the starter switch, to the alternator. am i wrong?

if anyone else wants to chime in thats fine with me.