I have a 97 hatch with a B16A2 on it with the engine harness from the 99 SI. The B16A2 broke down So I bought a japanase B18C swap. It comes with the harness But harness is reverse because of the steering wheel location. My questions are What is the best way to wire the motor and what should be rewire?

I notice that the B18C does not have the censor on the fuel rail like the B16A2 does. Could I use the B16A2 harness?

Any info welcome. Thanks for the help in advance.

 

U might want to use the b16 harness and use the b16 fuel rail or upgrade to an aem or aftermarket rail.

 

so if I use the b16 harness and fuel rail with the censor on top of it I do not have to rewire anything. Basicly plug and play.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carloselpavo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if I use the b16 harness and fuel rail with the censor on top of it I do not have to rewire anything. Basicly plug and play.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct.

 

1. Use the B16A2 harness.

2. Post a picture of this sensor - I think it's an EVAP purge solenoid of some sort, but post a pic.

 

BTW your car us currently OBD2, right?

If it is then you will encounter some problems with the JDM swap:

1. You will need to add an OBD2 B18C5/Type R oil pump to the JDM engine. The JDM oil pump lacks the boss on it for the necessary CKF sensor, which is an OBD2-only item. Without the pump/sensor you'll get a CEL, and it will run like doo-doo.

2. The computer that comes with the JDM swap won't be OBD2 either - even if the plug is, trust me it's an OBD1 program that only loks for 1 o2 sensor, no CKF, no EVAP, catalyst, etc. etc. You will probably have to run the current ECU you have and risk losing some whp and torque

3. you can always run a jumper harness and a rechipped, OBD1 P28 ECU and not have to worry about the CKF, secondary o2 sensor, evap stuff, etc. but if you live in an emissions state you're fucked come tag/emissions time

 

Sorry to ***** it up, but I also wanted to add that finding the OBD2 USDM B18C5 swap might be in your best interest. It will have the necessary OBD2 compliant gear, and at least you could get the exact mileage on it too.

Lastly the ECU might prove to be the crappiest part of your swap since the OBD2 ITR computers were programmed with the immobilizer bullshit in the key and ignition switch.

What year, make, and model is the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What year, make, and model is the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is a 97 civic hatch with the the harness of the 99 civic SI including the keyless entry, pl & pw.

So I guess that I will have to use the P28 I was using on the B16 and tune it for the R.

If use the p28 Do I have to replace the oil pump too?


Modified by carloselpavo at 10:39 AM 10/29/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carloselpavo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I guess that I will have to use the P28 I was using on the B16 and tune it for the R.

If use the p28 Do I have to replace the oil pump too?


Modified by carloselpavo at 10:39 AM 10/29/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you don't.

You will need to swap the VTEC solenoid from your B16A onto the JDM ITR engine though, because the JDM ITR VTEC solenoid lacks a VTEC oil pressure switch. Just swap the solenoids and you'll be fine.

 

one more ?

Will I have to tune the p28 I was using on the B16?

The p28 is tune on crome for the B16A2 with 310cc injectors, 68mm IM & TB. The VTEC point at 4700 rpm.

I was planning on keeping the stock injectors, IM & TB and later on change them and tune it. When I have save more $$$. But if I have to tune it I will change them now so I don't have to do it 2 times.

 

any one

 

you should re tune. and why is vtec at 4700. it should be higher at like 5500+

 

Thanks

VTEC is at 4700 rpm because it was tune before when I was running the B16