i just painted some parts and it has more orange peel than i like. i used a finishline gun and some cheap products. 3 base/ 3 clear. the base layed out flat. i was wondering whats the best way to lay clear with minimal orange peel. do i lay the first coat with full coverage and wet-looking or light? how about the second and third coat? i let dry 10-20 minutes between. i also wanted to know if using a cheap gun and cheap products really make a big difference. i want it to be smoother so that i dont have to wetsand that much. any help is appreciated. thanks




Modified by ek4shizzle at 5:00 PM 11/5/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek4shizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i also wanted to know if using a cheap gun and cheap products really make a big difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im no pro, but I personally believe that using higher end products does dramatically affect the outcome of paint work. At least in my case. Through my experience higher end clears have always laid better for me not requiring me to wet sand.

 

you can lay clear down good with any gun just make sure you gun is adjusted properly and you have the right amount of pressure... i think having good paint is more important that an expensive gun... and really theres nothing wrong with orange peel... now if you run the clear you have a problem, but with op.. just wet sand and buff and it will look amazing
just my two cents

 

you always get what you pay for and that goes for everything...thats gonna need some mad wetsanding and a complete re-do in my opinion...its not a bad job though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AZSTATEPOLICE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im no pro, but I personally believe that using higher end products does dramatically affect the outcome of paint work. At least in my case. Through my experience higher end clears have always laid better for me not requiring me to wet sand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the input

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alltech_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can lay clear down good with any gun just make sure you gun is adjusted properly and you have the right amount of pressure... i think having good paint is more important that an expensive gun... and really theres nothing wrong with orange peel... now if you run the clear you have a problem, but with op.. just wet sand and buff and it will look amazing
just my two cents
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill try better paint next time. and there is nothing wrong with a little orange peel. thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lubo_25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you always get what you pay for and that goes for everything...thats gonna need some mad wetsanding and a complete re-do in my opinion...its not a bad job though </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i got what i paid for, but i really dont think it needs a complete redo.

 

as lubo said, you get what you pay for, but wetsanding to a nice shine shouldn't be too bad. even the low end sprays can look amazing if you spend the time to wetsand and buff.

look at it this way, you've got your clear on, see what you can do with it. if you don't like it you can redo it, but it all depends on what the final look you prefer.

 

you'll be amazed with what some wetsanding and polishing can do

 

i already know how to wetsand and buff. and ive done it plenty of times. my question is how to lay the clear better to prevent a lOt of orange peel. i think imma try to turn the fluid down. is it suppose to be 3 medium wet coats? this cheap clear wont lay flat no matter how i spray it. thanks for the input guys

 

i'm not a painter. but, it seems to me the wetter i lay it on, the smoother it turns out

 

from the look of the finished panel i'd say you are laying it on a little too heavy (or spraying moving the gun to slow), you either want to spead up your pass as you spray or turn down the psi a tad, see there are too many variables when painting, ie place you live climate, how hot, how humid, type of reducer used as far as temp goes, and every painter sprays diff, one guy uses higher psi but moves faster as he sprays where as one guy will move slower as he passes over the panel with a lower psi. but i got to say you did great on the panel, you have plenty of clear on there to sand off and polish out to nice flat shine
http://www.myspace.com/customridesvt just in case you guys want to see any of the work i do, you know how it is there are always those people out there who just talk like they know


Modified by who-got-rice at 2:41 PM 10/28/2007

 

alright thanks alot. ill try to make some adjustments. ive cut and buffed it and it came out great. i think it means alot coming from a guy like you. thanks

 

From experience i keep it at 40psi and just move a little quicker, keep it about 8 inches away and over lap about half of the spray just like with the base. Oh and keep your gun at 90 degrees, don't have it at an angle!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 07SIcpe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From experience i keep it at 40psi and just move a little quicker, keep it about 8 inches away and over lap about half of the spray just like with the base. Oh and keep your gun at 90 degrees, don't have it at an angle!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the advice. i follow those rules. its kinda hard to paint smaller parts and parts with alot of angles without fanning it

 

just painted some more parts today. it came out better than the ones in the pix ^^
and some spots there is very very minimal orange peel, looks like some chroma or something. looks very flat. i dont know how i did it but i wished everything was that flat.
i think every clear will look the same just depends on the painter. a cheap clear will look just as good as expensive ones, you just gotta do a lot of cut n buffing. expensive clears just requires less work and are for lazy people. cheap stuff is for the poor people with alot of extra time.

 

Depends on the gun read what the book on your guns says but i always set it a few higher then turn the flow up and go for it.If you have an Iwata turn the flow up and RUN cause if you jog it will be in the floor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek4shizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i think every clear will look the same just depends on the painter. a cheap clear will look just as good as expensive ones, you just gotta do a lot of cut n buffing. expensive clears just requires less work and are for lazy people. cheap stuff is for the poor people with alot of extra time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really disagree with this, with expensive products you are paying for a lot of research and a tried and true product. 90% of the time, with a quality product, like a PPG clear, you know the product is going to be durable and last a long time. Have you ever seen a car that is 10 or so years old and the clear coat is starting to turn white and oxidize? That is what going cheap on a product can do. Sure, the result might look the same when you pull it out of the booth, but check back 5 years later and see who's job looks better.

anyway, your orange peel doesn't really look bad, looks like something maybe a little more practice and some more fine tuning of the gun should be able to fix. How do you do your overlap? I usually overlap 50-50 on basecoat, but if I'm shooting clear I tend to lean a little more towards 60% or even 75% overlap sometimes, depending on the shape and size of panel. Also, a lot of more expensive clears have additives that help them level out when you spray them, which can help, but apparently expensive clears are for 'lazy people'. I wouldn't call any flat rate painters at large production shops 'lazy', but what do I know. I do know that they certainly don't have time to be wetsanding and buffing paint jobs with orange peel like that, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bigblockhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on the gun read what the book on your guns says but i always set it a few higher then turn the flow up and go for it.If you have an Iwata turn the flow up and RUN cause if you jog it will be in the floor</TD></TR></TABLE>

alright ill read the book more.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 7andaswitchblade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I really disagree with this, with expensive products you are paying for a lot of research and a tried and true product. 90% of the time, with a quality product, like a PPG clear, you know the product is going to be durable and last a long time. Have you ever seen a car that is 10 or so years old and the clear coat is starting to turn white and oxidize? That is what going cheap on a product can do. Sure, the result might look the same when you pull it out of the booth, but check back 5 years later and see who's job looks better.

anyway, your orange peel doesn't really look bad, looks like something maybe a little more practice and some more fine tuning of the gun should be able to fix. How do you do your overlap? I usually overlap 50-50 on basecoat, but if I'm shooting clear I tend to lean a little more towards 60% or even 75% overlap sometimes, depending on the shape and size of panel. Also, a lot of more expensive clears have additives that help them level out when you spray them, which can help, but apparently expensive clears are for 'lazy people'. I wouldn't call any flat rate painters at large production shops 'lazy', but what do I know. I do know that they certainly don't have time to be wetsanding and buffing paint jobs with orange peel like that, though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks i totally agree with you. imma start using better stuff and save me time cause im lazy. as long as a paint job is taken care of it should last a very long time, but i dont keep cars that long anyway.

 

quality paint and equipment can sure as hell help make it look better and last longer but a lot of it is allowing for the coats to flash and making sure the gun is setup correctly. a lot of people buy compressors and guns but what they are missing is the fact that the moisture will be sprayed on teh car along with the paint if you do not have something to draw the moisture from the hose before it hits the gun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakeiscool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quality paint and equipment can sure as hell help make it look better and last longer but a lot of it is allowing for the coats to flash and making sure the gun is setup correctly. a lot of people buy compressors and guns but what they are missing is the fact that the moisture will be sprayed on teh car along with the paint if you do not have something to draw the moisture from the hose before it hits the gun.</TD></TR></TABLE>

guilty. ill try the ice bucket technique. thanks for the info.

 

dude turn the air pressure all the way up on your gun and take your time. with the air that high it makes the spray finner and also tacky so it doesnt run as easy

 

depends on ur gun and adjust the nozzle and right amount of reducer

 

Use the highest quality clear you can afford, lay on extra, and wet sand. Best way to a super smooth finish with no orange peel. No matter how smooth you can lay it it'll still need some wetsanding to be perfect if you're picky.

 

i am a proffesional painter at autoworks collision center. Your orange peel has nothing to do with the paint, its the prep and air pressure that influences it. 70 % of your finish is based on the prep process. Make sure you thoroughly clean the car and use the recommended pressure for ur paint. I would suggest next time to go with ppg deltron 3000 clear with your temp based reducer at about 35 psi. Make your first coat look like your finish and then apply two more wet coats after proper flash time( dry time between coats). The quality of gun doesnt make too much of a difference when it is properly cleaned and maintained. I can make a cheaper gun like an atd spray just as good as a sata. Its all pattern and consistency. Just take your time and invest in the materials. The finish will be worth it in the long run

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustinBondar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude turn the air pressure all the way up on your gun and take your time. with the air that high it makes the spray finner and also tacky so it doesnt run as easy</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not having running problems. my gun is 23psi max for 10psi at the cap. how much higher should i go? i sometimes go 23-35psi.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22silvia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on ur gun and adjust the nozzle and right amount of reducer</TD></TR></TABLE>

my reduction ratio is perfect according to the manufacture specs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by josh99ta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the highest quality clear you can afford, lay on extra, and wet sand. Best way to a super smooth finish with no orange peel. No matter how smooth you can lay it it'll still need some wetsanding to be perfect if you're picky. </TD></TR></TABLE>thanks

cant afford too much... on a budget. i do try to lay extra to wetsand.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeg302 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am a proffesional painter at autoworks collision center. Your orange peel has nothing to do with the paint, its the prep and air pressure that influences it. 70 % of your finish is based on the prep process. Make sure you thoroughly clean the car and use the recommended pressure for ur paint. I would suggest next time to go with ppg deltron 3000 clear with your temp based reducer at about 35 psi. Make your first coat look like your finish and then apply two more wet coats after proper flash time( dry time between coats). The quality of gun doesnt make too much of a difference when it is properly cleaned and maintained. I can make a cheaper gun like an atd spray just as good as a sata. Its all pattern and consistency. Just take your time and invest in the materials. The finish will be worth it in the long run</TD></TR></TABLE>

spent alot of time prepping and wetsanding ending with 600 grit, degreased and tacked.
i would love to try the deltron 3000, but cant really afford it. how much would you say it cost for a gallon w/ reducer?
would it be better to spray clear with 35 at the gun and how much would that be at my cap? so the first coat should be a mist or tack coat kinda right? or kinda like sealer?

thanks for the inputs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22silvia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on ur gun and adjust the nozzle and right amount of reducer</TD></TR></TABLE>