Honda FIT turbo questions/discussion
i have an 07 MT honda fit and im planning to turbo it in a few months, right now im just trying to learn what would be best for my set up. there are 3 turbo kit out already.two are only available in Japan HKS and TOPFUEL. TIR is going to release their kit real soon http://www.fitfreak.net/forums....html all these kits cost $3500+ and my budget is only $1000-$1500 which is more than enough for everything
MY PLAN: the car has about 95HP to the wheels stock and my goal is to just boost it up to about 135-145hp, not much.. i know, but not a lot of people have pushed the L15 engine to the breaking point yet so i don't want to be the guinea pig. T1R got 150 Hp out of their kit using 6psi.
MANIFOLD: I have welders and tools so i know i can build a simple log manifold, plus space only allows for a log manifold. does anyone know where i can get a flange for the L15A motor? if not then ill just buy a cheap manifold off of ebay then just cut the tubes off and use the flange. something like this:


TURBO: Im thinking of using a T3 Garrett with an A/R of .42 hot and .48 cold. does anyone think that would be too small for my goals? or should i go a little bigger?
DOWNPIPE+ EXHAUST SYSTEM: im thinking of going with a 2.5 inch downpipe, 2.5 inch exhaust system no catalytic converter and some kind of muffler. opinions? too small? too big?
CHARGE: for my goals, im thinking of using no intercooler because i dont think i need one and it does make that much more work and it would require me to somewhat cut up my car, which i don't want to do at all. if you guys really think i need one, what do you think of a top mount like this:

compared to a front mount?
EMS: my car is pretty new, it has a drive by wire system so i don't think there are any standalone management for my car yet. im leaning to go with the emanage blue again, because of my power goal and budget plus T1R provides it with their turbo kit. does the emanage blue only let me adjust my fuel and not my ignition? Im planning to get a wideband and street tune it myself or maybe with the help of some locals, then later on get it professionally tuned. is there any special program i have to buy from greddy to tune it myself or does it come with the emanage already? opinions on the EM?
So pretty much i want my kit look like the one in the pics above. do you guys have any opinions about my plans or parts choice?
MY PLAN: the car has about 95HP to the wheels stock and my goal is to just boost it up to about 135-145hp, not much.. i know, but not a lot of people have pushed the L15 engine to the breaking point yet so i don't want to be the guinea pig. T1R got 150 Hp out of their kit using 6psi.
MANIFOLD: I have welders and tools so i know i can build a simple log manifold, plus space only allows for a log manifold. does anyone know where i can get a flange for the L15A motor? if not then ill just buy a cheap manifold off of ebay then just cut the tubes off and use the flange. something like this:


TURBO: Im thinking of using a T3 Garrett with an A/R of .42 hot and .48 cold. does anyone think that would be too small for my goals? or should i go a little bigger?
DOWNPIPE+ EXHAUST SYSTEM: im thinking of going with a 2.5 inch downpipe, 2.5 inch exhaust system no catalytic converter and some kind of muffler. opinions? too small? too big?
CHARGE: for my goals, im thinking of using no intercooler because i dont think i need one and it does make that much more work and it would require me to somewhat cut up my car, which i don't want to do at all. if you guys really think i need one, what do you think of a top mount like this:

compared to a front mount?
EMS: my car is pretty new, it has a drive by wire system so i don't think there are any standalone management for my car yet. im leaning to go with the emanage blue again, because of my power goal and budget plus T1R provides it with their turbo kit. does the emanage blue only let me adjust my fuel and not my ignition? Im planning to get a wideband and street tune it myself or maybe with the help of some locals, then later on get it professionally tuned. is there any special program i have to buy from greddy to tune it myself or does it come with the emanage already? opinions on the EM?
So pretty much i want my kit look like the one in the pics above. do you guys have any opinions about my plans or parts choice?
Use an intercooler. It doesn't have to be a front mount, but you have to mitigate your heat and detonation issues. E-manage can work fine for the system, but check out your other options.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use an intercooler. It doesn't have to be a front mount, but you have to mitigate your heat and detonation issues. E-manage can work fine for the system, but check out your other options. </TD></TR></TABLE>
but im only gonna run like 5-6 pounds of boost. you really think it's necessary?
but im only gonna run like 5-6 pounds of boost. you really think it's necessary?
emanage works great for open loop tuning. just dont boost in partial throttle, it'll lean out. the emanage lets you do ignition timing adjustments so long as you purchase all the harnesses. the tuning software is sold serperate of the unit unless you buy it all as a package. Id run an intercooler if i were you. dont forget to upgrade your injectors, even at 6 psi, youll probably come very close to maxing the stockers out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">emanage works great for open loop tuning. just dont boost in partial throttle, it'll lean out. the emanage lets you do ignition timing adjustments so long as you purchase all the harnesses. the tuning software is sold serperate of the unit unless you buy it all as a package. Id run an intercooler if i were you. dont forget to upgrade your injectors, even at 6 psi, youll probably come very close to maxing the stockers out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do you mean ill lean out boosting with partial throttle? can't i tune for that? explain please
btw are you talking about the emanage BLUE or the ultimate? im planning to use the BLUE.
oh yeah i forgot about the injectors, im gonna try to use 310cc ones from a k20 or something (if they fit)
Who else thinks i should use an intercooler? HKS, TOPFUEL, and T1R offer kits without intercoolers.
what do you mean ill lean out boosting with partial throttle? can't i tune for that? explain please
btw are you talking about the emanage BLUE or the ultimate? im planning to use the BLUE.oh yeah i forgot about the injectors, im gonna try to use 310cc ones from a k20 or something (if they fit)
Who else thinks i should use an intercooler? HKS, TOPFUEL, and T1R offer kits without intercoolers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuangAlang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what do you mean ill lean out boosting with partial throttle? can't i tune for that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
He's talking about part throttle boost when your car is still in closed loop. In other words, your ECU is going to be maintaining your AF ratio at 14.7:1 while in closed loop, even if you are seeing some boost.
I ran my last car like that without any problems. It's not really leaning out, but 14.7:1 isn't enough fuel for boost. Just do what I did, if you are going to boost, put the pedal down and the ECU will switch to open loop = read off your maps and your AFR will be fine. lol
what do you mean ill lean out boosting with partial throttle? can't i tune for that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
He's talking about part throttle boost when your car is still in closed loop. In other words, your ECU is going to be maintaining your AF ratio at 14.7:1 while in closed loop, even if you are seeing some boost.
I ran my last car like that without any problems. It's not really leaning out, but 14.7:1 isn't enough fuel for boost. Just do what I did, if you are going to boost, put the pedal down and the ECU will switch to open loop = read off your maps and your AFR will be fine. lol
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if you ever had an aftermarket turbo setup, you would know you need an intercooler. No matter what you do, your gonna have alot more heat under the hood which heats up the charge piping and the incoming air. Even on day where the the tempurature is 65* you air intake temps will be 135+ = not good for performance or engine reliabiltiy.
top mounts only work good if you have air going to them. I don't see there's gonna be enough airflow for that hks top mount
top mounts only work good if you have air going to them. I don't see there's gonna be enough airflow for that hks top mount
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuangAlang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but im only gonna run like 5-6 pounds of boost. you really think it's necessary? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
but im only gonna run like 5-6 pounds of boost. you really think it's necessary? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
He's talking about part throttle boost when your car is still in closed loop. In other words, your ECU is going to be maintaining your AF ratio at 14.7:1 while in closed loop, even if you are seeing some boost.
I ran my last car like that without any problems. It's not really leaning out, but 14.7:1 isn't enough fuel for boost. Just do what I did, if you are going to boost, put the pedal down and the ECU will switch to open loop = read off your maps and your AFR will be fine. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
understood.
question: if i upgrade my injectors will that help with the A/F during partial throttle? or will the ecu being in closed loop try to retain the stoichiometric 14.7:1 ratio
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewjew bean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you ever had an aftermarket turbo setup, you would know you need an intercooler. No matter what you do, your gonna have alot more heat under the hood which heats up the charge piping and the incoming air. Even on day where the the tempurature is 65* you air intake temps will be 135+ = not good for performance or engine reliabiltiy.
top mounts only work good if you have air going to them. I don't see there's gonna be enough airflow for that hks top mount</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah this would be my first time boosting a car, but my brother has a subaru so i get to tweak around with it.
im really gonna try to use a top mount with like a small fan on top of it or something, see how that works out for me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93jdmcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should save up some money and wait till hasports comes out with the k20 mount</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can get the mounts right now if i wanted. but we all know there is much more to an engine swap then just engine mounts. maybe ill go K in a few years.
He's talking about part throttle boost when your car is still in closed loop. In other words, your ECU is going to be maintaining your AF ratio at 14.7:1 while in closed loop, even if you are seeing some boost.
I ran my last car like that without any problems. It's not really leaning out, but 14.7:1 isn't enough fuel for boost. Just do what I did, if you are going to boost, put the pedal down and the ECU will switch to open loop = read off your maps and your AFR will be fine. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
understood.
question: if i upgrade my injectors will that help with the A/F during partial throttle? or will the ecu being in closed loop try to retain the stoichiometric 14.7:1 ratio
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewjew bean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you ever had an aftermarket turbo setup, you would know you need an intercooler. No matter what you do, your gonna have alot more heat under the hood which heats up the charge piping and the incoming air. Even on day where the the tempurature is 65* you air intake temps will be 135+ = not good for performance or engine reliabiltiy.
top mounts only work good if you have air going to them. I don't see there's gonna be enough airflow for that hks top mount</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah this would be my first time boosting a car, but my brother has a subaru so i get to tweak around with it.
im really gonna try to use a top mount with like a small fan on top of it or something, see how that works out for me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93jdmcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should save up some money and wait till hasports comes out with the k20 mount</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can get the mounts right now if i wanted. but we all know there is much more to an engine swap then just engine mounts. maybe ill go K in a few years.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuangAlang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
MY PLAN: the car has about 95HP to the wheels stock and my goal is to just boost it up to about 135-145hp, not much.. i know, but not a lot of people have pushed the L15 engine to the breaking point yet so i don't want to be the guinea pig. T1R got 150 Hp out of their kit using 6psi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
skunk 2 got 210 to the wheels on a stock l15...
MY PLAN: the car has about 95HP to the wheels stock and my goal is to just boost it up to about 135-145hp, not much.. i know, but not a lot of people have pushed the L15 engine to the breaking point yet so i don't want to be the guinea pig. T1R got 150 Hp out of their kit using 6psi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
skunk 2 got 210 to the wheels on a stock l15...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. D-Series »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My non intercooled stock d15 made 202.7 whp @ 11 psi.
Intercoolers on low boost are overrated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice nice... what is it that creates the heat in FI cars anyways? the compression of the air right? I have personal reasons why i don't want to run an intercooler, im not going to race or smash on my car at all so it's not like ill be boosting all the time.
Intercoolers on low boost are overrated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice nice... what is it that creates the heat in FI cars anyways? the compression of the air right? I have personal reasons why i don't want to run an intercooler, im not going to race or smash on my car at all so it's not like ill be boosting all the time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuangAlang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but im only gonna run like 5-6 pounds of boost. you really think it's necessary? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. You still have to understand that you're increasing cylinder pressures, which create heat. Its not the amount of boost, its the fact that you ARE BOOSTING is the reason why this is most recommended. There are some systems in other vehicles and kits that don't use them, but have you seen any one of them from the factory run for any length of time? If you're going to do this, do this right so that your engine and project can last a long time... Your engine will love it in the end, I promise ya..
but im only gonna run like 5-6 pounds of boost. you really think it's necessary? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. You still have to understand that you're increasing cylinder pressures, which create heat. Its not the amount of boost, its the fact that you ARE BOOSTING is the reason why this is most recommended. There are some systems in other vehicles and kits that don't use them, but have you seen any one of them from the factory run for any length of time? If you're going to do this, do this right so that your engine and project can last a long time... Your engine will love it in the end, I promise ya..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuangAlang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nice nice... what is it that creates the heat in FI cars anyways? the compression of the air right? I have personal reasons why i don't want to run an intercooler, im not going to race or smash on my car at all so it's not like ill be boosting all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not about racing and going all out. its about keeping your engine's internal heat down from the increased cylinder pressures. Just because this other guy's car hasn't died yet, after a dyno doesn't mean its still a good idea to not use one.
nice nice... what is it that creates the heat in FI cars anyways? the compression of the air right? I have personal reasons why i don't want to run an intercooler, im not going to race or smash on my car at all so it's not like ill be boosting all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not about racing and going all out. its about keeping your engine's internal heat down from the increased cylinder pressures. Just because this other guy's car hasn't died yet, after a dyno doesn't mean its still a good idea to not use one.
IMO intercoolers are great. And will help any setup.
But plenty of cars came without intercoolers from the factory. T-Bird's at first didnt have any. Some saabs.
If you can fit one without hacking, go for it.
And an IC under the hood could hurt more than help in some setups.
But plenty of cars came without intercoolers from the factory. T-Bird's at first didnt have any. Some saabs.
If you can fit one without hacking, go for it.
And an IC under the hood could hurt more than help in some setups.
alright alright let's talk engine management.
i have talked to some of the local tuners in my town and they told me to go with AEM's F/IC, http://www.aempower.com/ViewCa...D=116 i did some research on it and it seems way way better than the emanage blue. what do you guys think of it?
i have talked to some of the local tuners in my town and they told me to go with AEM's F/IC, http://www.aempower.com/ViewCa...D=116 i did some research on it and it seems way way better than the emanage blue. what do you guys think of it?
I'd rather do E-manage Ultimate or HKS FCon V, but that's just what has worked well for me. You may want to call Hondata also to see if there is an application for your ECU.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd rather do E-manage Ultimate or HKS FCon V, but that's just what has worked well for me. You may want to call Hondata also to see if there is an application for your ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would too but the ultimate costs an arm and a leg and it's still a piggyback. have you read all the features the F/IC has? a lot of people say the F/IC is almost as good as the ultimate and it comes with a program to tune it yourself. with the ultimate you would have to buy a bunch of other stuff for it to work.
i would too but the ultimate costs an arm and a leg and it's still a piggyback. have you read all the features the F/IC has? a lot of people say the F/IC is almost as good as the ultimate and it comes with a program to tune it yourself. with the ultimate you would have to buy a bunch of other stuff for it to work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuangAlang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would too but the ultimate costs an arm and a leg and it's still a piggyback. have you read all the features the F/IC has? a lot of people say the F/IC is almost as good as the ultimate and it comes with a program to tune it yourself. with the ultimate you would have to buy a bunch of other stuff for it to work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm only going with experience with the systems I've used. I don't just read features, I typically use the system in conjunction with my tuner and make my own determination. Cost is a factor, but I make sure that my budget can allow for it before embarking on such an endeavor like the one you're taking, even if it means waiting a bit.
If AEM is your way to go, then go for it...
i would too but the ultimate costs an arm and a leg and it's still a piggyback. have you read all the features the F/IC has? a lot of people say the F/IC is almost as good as the ultimate and it comes with a program to tune it yourself. with the ultimate you would have to buy a bunch of other stuff for it to work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm only going with experience with the systems I've used. I don't just read features, I typically use the system in conjunction with my tuner and make my own determination. Cost is a factor, but I make sure that my budget can allow for it before embarking on such an endeavor like the one you're taking, even if it means waiting a bit.
If AEM is your way to go, then go for it...
you know what.. i did a little more research and found out that the FIC can be tuned in closed loop and open loop (ultimate can't)it does this by modifying the O2 signals. 400 dollars and im ready to tune, i dont need extra harnesses, sensors, or programs. so far my choice is aem FIC unless something better comes up



