Ok i watched all of the videos and just got done with 2 1/2 hrs. of tuning the damn thing. I have made some good progress but, I can't seem to get the damn knock down between 3500 & 4000 rpm's. I have tired to pull some spark back and tried to add it. Nothing works. Idk if my fule needs to be incressed or what. the best that i can seem to do is get it down to 11 knocks. Is that bad or is that in the acceptable range? It got worse when i retarted the ignition so i advanced it and some of them went away. I guess my question is, is 11 knocks ok for a dd? Here is what my ignition table looks like.

My setup is
03 ep3
jrsc-r
440's
2.5 mid pipe
comptech ice box
kpro


Modified by moores55 at 3:26 PM 10/23/2007

 

Get a wideband asap. Tuning for knock is retarded, reminds me of my old dsm days.

 

Can you tell me more on this? I thought that on a f/i motor knock was the enemy. Every time i run it the a/f stays in the 11.4 - 12.5 while in boost. I also thought that's were you wanted it for f/i cars.

 

you want to stay below 12:1 while in boost

 

from my readings i am below 12.2 while in boost. But why is "tuning for knock retarted"? Is 11 knocks acceptable?

 

bump for help.

 

bump.

 

so no one knows.

 

Here are some tips: Try retarding ignition timing or different cam angles etc.. :-)

Also, your knock sensor maybe reporting false reports...

 

Dont always rely on the OE Knock sensors (That goes for any car). You should be looking at your plugs while on a dyno.

If you do not want to do this, you may pull timing until the knock goes away. If it does not, it may be picking up some other noise in the same freq range as a knock at that certain point for some reason. Knock sensors are not the end all be all with tuning. As long as the car runs well and smoothly on the dyno and the plugs do not show signs of detonation then your likely to be fine. The Hondata maps aren't always firing the plug at that EXACT ignition degree. They can have float based on other parameters in the program. Hondata cars generally look like they can take less timing as compared to standalone units just because of timing trims built in to the program.

FYI, that is not your ignition table. That is the 0 degree table, your log shows you are reading off the 20 degree table.

and... If you are actually using a K20A3 engine, they generally take less timing than their A2 counterparts.

 

Could just be noise

 

You don't use a good vacum port for your map sensor.
The line need to be on the bottom of the S/C ( boost ) not on the top ( vacuum ).

 

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Also, your knock sensor maybe reporting false reports...</TD></TR></TABLE>
this would be my guess. I've seen a lot of partial throttle knock on a friend's fully built all motor k24 when we were tuning and after pulling all kinds of timing it was still there.

 

I'm not familiar with how k-pro determines "knock" but my engine has a steady knock signal (via plx) even when it is not knocking.

 

vtec causes those fake knock signals

 

more than likely its noise. get a screen shot up of your datalog.