It starts fine, after letting it warm up, drives fine but as soon as i hit the breaks it bogs down and dies? another example start the car at night flip the lights on it bogs down and dies?.....plz help thanks!

 

leaky brake booster??? your booster holds vacuum and when u hit the break it could be leaking out and makin the car bog.

 

maybe an altenator problem or bad battery as well with the light situation.

 

oooo i didnt even notice the light problem! lol. i need to read more closely. yea check your voltage. should be anywhere between 13.8-14.7 volts while running. if its alot lower u got a problem with ur alternator.

 

Awesome! thanks alot...also when i hit the brakes the gas guage drops to empty?

 

Wow, sounds like you have one SERIOUS voltage issue. On most of today's cars the pcm (the car's computer) requires atleast 10 volts of electrical pressure to even operate, not like the old days when you could get away with as low as a 7 volt charge. I'm guessing whenever you hit the brakes, the brake circuit is activated and is drawing that voltage line under the 9-10 volt mark causing the car to shut down.

Gas guage too...remember, the gas guage is a variable resistor that uses voltage also...I'm surprised it's gotten this bad. Check the tension on the alternator belt..if it's loose then you might just want to tighten (low alt. output would lead to an undercharged battery.) If the alt. is good check for a nasty drain on the battery. Got any bump bump or flashy lights? That could be it. Also, have the battery checked at any parts store.

 

One last thing, when you said it starts up fine..is it in a solid rhythmic fashion? Anyways, ive seen plenty of battery's/charging systems that seem to operate the car just fine that fail the **** out of electrical output tests..just a thought.

 

or might have a ground issue. check all your body grounds and chassis grounds

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prettylew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be anywhere between 13.8-14.7 volts while running..</TD></TR></TABLE>


Hhaha, what kind of battery are you running??

Full state of charge on your average honda(tiny ***) battery is around 12.7-12.8 volts. Are you using like a gel cell battery?

 

besides..if it was a faulty ground for either the light circuit or the fuel gauge the circuits wouldnt even work. I'm still guessing a charging or parasitic drain issue.

BTW...OP, how old's your battery?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c0d0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Hhaha, what kind of battery are you running??

Full state of charge on your average honda(tiny ***) battery is around 12.7-12.8 volts. Are you using like a gel cell battery?</TD></TR></TABLE>

your a retard. read EXACTLY what i wrote and what you so cleverly quoted me on. go ahead. read it . slowly. ill give u a minute.

ok i said "voltage should be around 13.8-14.7 volts while RUNNING"

as in while that ENGINE is going vroom vroom.

if your battery is at 12.8 while running u have a serious problem.

12.8 when the car is off is fine.

and the physical size of the battery means nothing. if its a car battery its 12 volts end of story. have a nice day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c0d0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">besides..if it was a faulty ground for either the light circuit or the fuel gauge the circuits wouldnt even work. I'm still guessing a charging or parasitic drain issue.

BTW...OP, how old's your battery?</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh and i dont know about you but EVERYONE who works on cars knows that a dirty, or loose, or corroded ground can cause all sorts of WEIRD problems all around the car. it doesnt necessarily have to be within that circuit.

i had a car with a bad valve cover ground before (svt focus) and it would periodically die on me for no reason and sometimes the gauges would move up and down by themselves and all the idiot lights would come on at once while driving.

so bad grounds can be tricky, everyone knows that

 

First of all buddy, my bad...didnt mean to rub you the wrong way..you're right and i'm wrong. Feel better? And if it was a "dirty, or loose, or corroded ground" dont you think his problems might be well...slightly different than what he's describing?

I'm admitting that I didnt read your post all the way...I wasnt being a smartass by laughing at what you said...but upwards of 14.8 volts in my opinion is a little too much for a standard Lead Acid battery.

I'm not trying to take anything away from you. If his problem is a faulty ground i'll give you complete credit...I just dont think that it would be the problem...who know's, ive been wrong before..but still man, chill out, nobody here's out to get you.

 

i have the same problem on my 88. cept it sometimes takes awhile to start..i'm thrown codes 9 and 14...i lookd at obd1 thread about codes..but are they the same on obd0...thanks in advance

 

I had a similar problem on an escort of mine, turned out to be a combination of things.

Wire for the brake light had rubbed against the chassis, shorting itself out when I hit the brakes, drawing heavy current (previous owner installed a piece of wire in place of the fuse...)

Battery terminal corroded

Ground wire to the cyl head was bad. Didn't look bad, but when I went through and fixed the brake wire, fixed the battery terminal, and then replaced the ground wire it worked fine.

I would start with a voltage test on your battery off and while running, then check for corrosion.

Don't rule out a vac leak either on top of the electrical issues.

 

thanks, but right now i'm at the 99% mark...at the moment my pass. front looks like a rats nest...aka ...wires EVERYWHERE..fron previous ownr