for those who are using innovative mounts what do you recommend for the stiffness?
i am planning on getting some motor mounts for the ef. i have decided to go with innovative mounts. i like the engine feel and wouldn't mind the car shaking but not to the point where i would need to retighten down bolts all over the car after a couple of months of driving. but i do enjoy the actual feel of the car shaking when gasing it.
what do you guys have and what response do you have about it?
would you also go harder or softer with what you got?
60A
75A
85A
or something else?
what do you guys have and what response do you have about it?
would you also go harder or softer with what you got?
60A
75A
85A
or something else?
I'd get 60 if you don't want it to shake to bad.
Thicker bushings don't mean anything if they are still a harder compound.
Thicker bushings don't mean anything if they are still a harder compound.
i have the 60a bushings on my ef, there plenty stiff, enough so that my rear view is constantly vibrating. but for daily driver its prefect. imo i would go any higher unless it sees track time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dustin_Pierce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have innovation mounts in my crx. My engine rattles too much. I heard place racing mounts are better because they have extra thicker bushings. I will order them sometime this week.</TD></TR></TABLE>
RATTLES???
AND UMMM PLACE RACING HAS BEEN OUT OF BUISNESS FOR SOMETIME NOW!
RATTLES???
AND UMMM PLACE RACING HAS BEEN OUT OF BUISNESS FOR SOMETIME NOW!
wow the consensus seems to be the 60A so far.
with the 60A there is plenty of rear view mirror shaking. i hate the mirrow shaking tho. but i wouldnt mind the 75A. with either one i guess the mirror will shake a bit. is there a solution to help with the mirror?
with the 60A there is plenty of rear view mirror shaking. i hate the mirrow shaking tho. but i wouldnt mind the 75A. with either one i guess the mirror will shake a bit. is there a solution to help with the mirror?
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I have 75A and I have had them for awhile and I get a rattle here and there but nothing that bad. My mirror doesn't rattle, the only thing that rattles bad is someplace in the hatch area and it isn't even that bad, I probably just have to tighten something down. Nothing rattles when I'm moving it only rattles when I'm stopped but thats if idle isn't at 750rpms if it is then nothing rattles. I like mine where its at, I dont have to re tighten anything except for the hatch problem.
Just think of like this the 60 is going to way stiffer than any stock OEM mount and the stiffness goes up from there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 949 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow the consensus seems to be the 60A so far.
with the 60A there is plenty of rear view mirror shaking. i hate the mirrow shaking tho. but i wouldnt mind the 75A. with either one i guess the mirror will shake a bit. is there a solution to help with the mirror?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, stock rubber mounts, or don't use a dynamically unbalanced inline 4 cylinder as your power plant.
with the 60A there is plenty of rear view mirror shaking. i hate the mirrow shaking tho. but i wouldnt mind the 75A. with either one i guess the mirror will shake a bit. is there a solution to help with the mirror?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, stock rubber mounts, or don't use a dynamically unbalanced inline 4 cylinder as your power plant.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just think of like this the 60 is going to way stiffer than any stock OEM mount and the stiffness goes up from there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant really compare to my stockers because they are soo out since i bought the car. so i never got a chance to see what its like at least decent.
i cant really compare to my stockers because they are soo out since i bought the car. so i never got a chance to see what its like at least decent.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">60A it is
</TD></TR></TABLE>Pssh, start with 75A and then work up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Pssh, start with 75A and then work up.
75a is best for most street cars (if you plan on making anywhere near 200 whp, now or in the future). Vibration is minimal, depending on your tolerance of course...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwapShopR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">75a is best for most street cars (if you plan on making anywhere near 200 whp, now or in the future). Vibration is minimal, depending on your tolerance of course...</TD></TR></TABLE>
right now i have innovatives crossmember and its pretty harsh for me. it feels like the fronts wheels have no play or bushing. so when i hit bumps its hard. i dont think there are these poly bushings in there tho.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwapShopR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">75a is best for most street cars (if you plan on making anywhere near 200 whp, now or in the future). Vibration is minimal, depending on your tolerance of course...</TD></TR></TABLE> So I was poking around in my engine bay today, and noticed my air filter had a crease in it, a crease that when the intake pipe is angled up towards the hood matches the headlight reinforcements. What does that tell me? Time to move from 75A to 85A and this is with a D16Z6!
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