Help! My turbo GSR sounds like a WRX
Today I was working on my car and took it out for a test drive, stomped in it and at full boost, full throttle I noticed my afr's were way off, 13.5 instead of 11.5-12 [@ wot.] I come up to stop sign and notice it now sounds like a wrx or flat four engine. It doesn't sound like its running off all four cylinders. I was messing with the boost earlier that day and it was running like a top.
I took it back to the shop and pulled the plugs and dist cap, they look fine. Swaped in another ecu [ls w basemap] on it, didn't help.
The only thing I can think of is that one of my DSM injectors may be somewhat clogged. Tomorrow I am going to swap the injectors out with another turbo car at the shop to see if this fixes the problem.
Any one have any suggestions on this? I really need this car for work monday.
Thanks for your help in advance,
Regards,
DK


..
I took it back to the shop and pulled the plugs and dist cap, they look fine. Swaped in another ecu [ls w basemap] on it, didn't help.
The only thing I can think of is that one of my DSM injectors may be somewhat clogged. Tomorrow I am going to swap the injectors out with another turbo car at the shop to see if this fixes the problem.
Any one have any suggestions on this? I really need this car for work monday.
Thanks for your help in advance,
Regards,
DK


..
Pulled spark plug wires individually, Each changed tone of the engine the same. Ngk colder plugs gaped at .26. I will try to pull injector clips tomorrow.
Thanks for your time.
DK
Thanks for your time.
DK
yeah if all 4 plugs changed the idle the same like you stated it very well may be something in the head like stated above...wont really help much to pull the injectors if they were all the same since you basicly know its firing in all 4. I would start doing a compression/leakdown test
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if you pulled the plugs on each cylinder and they all changed the idle then its not gonna be any thing wrong with the injectors either. next thing I would do is check the compression if its low on any cylinders add a teaspoon of oil then test it again. if the psi raises then that means either your compression ring is bent/cracked or your ring land is cracked...but after adding the oil the psi doesnt change then thats pointing towards the valves, you can check that with a leak down test. the results from the leakdown test will tell you if your valves are bent or chipped or headgasket...probaly wouldnt hurt to check the spring tension and height.
No not necessarily at all. If it's just a small edge of a piston melted, or a burnt valve it won't smoke at all. You can tell by driving it, because it ildes terrible but as the rpms get higher it'll smooth out a little, or in some cases almost entirely.
I've had pistons with the ring lands cracked in three seperate peices drive fine with no smoke...eventualy it will begin to smoke when the weather gets colder it will start to smoke bad. like they said above, it will idle like crap but when you get up in the rpms it will smooth almost completely out, it'll probaly skip alittle just like it would if the spark plug gap was to big. do a leakdown then post some pics after the teardown.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bet it's going to be a significant loss of compression on one cylinder with the possibility of slight loss on a second. Damaged piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what im thinking.
thats what im thinking.
Did an compression test,
162-160-90-167
This really sucks..
I went and bought a civic hatch today.. haha
I wonder if it was the tune that jacked it up..
It does smooth out after 3.5k rpms..
162-160-90-167
This really sucks..
I went and bought a civic hatch today.. haha
I wonder if it was the tune that jacked it up..
It does smooth out after 3.5k rpms..
130k miles on engine when boosted.. I remember my tuner disabling my knock sensor ;( This engine was mint, when I pulled the oil pan it had no discoloration what so ever. I have all the maintenance records sense new.
I had it up to 10psi for 2 pulls and then removed the boost controller. My afrs were 11.5-12 on 8psi, and I turned it down because it was up to 12.5afr when I turned it up to 10.
I honestly blame my tuner. My engine bay put off so much heat, I said the timing needed to be more retarded but he said it was ok, he said something about 16 degrees of total timing I think.
Sorry I don't have any bin files.
I just need to know if I was at fault or my tuner. I need to know if I should take it to him when I get it fixed.
I had it up to 10psi for 2 pulls and then removed the boost controller. My afrs were 11.5-12 on 8psi, and I turned it down because it was up to 12.5afr when I turned it up to 10.
I honestly blame my tuner. My engine bay put off so much heat, I said the timing needed to be more retarded but he said it was ok, he said something about 16 degrees of total timing I think.
Sorry I don't have any bin files.
I just need to know if I was at fault or my tuner. I need to know if I should take it to him when I get it fixed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted_B_Series »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">130k miles on engine when boosted.. I remember my tuner disabling my knock sensor ;( This engine was mint, when I pulled the oil pan it had no discoloration what so ever. I have all the maintenance records sense new.
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When you start modding your car the stock knock sensor becomes very innacurate. Plus were you using a p72 ecu or anything else that had a knock board in it? If you use the standard p28 like most people they dont even support knock sensors.
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When you start modding your car the stock knock sensor becomes very innacurate. Plus were you using a p72 ecu or anything else that had a knock board in it? If you use the standard p28 like most people they dont even support knock sensors.



