as the title says,
i haven't had a chance to ask people around, why not ask HT for best result
is there any diferent regarding function, durability, light weight etc between skunk2, blox, megan, D2 or any aftermarket rear LCA for EF ?
which one of them is the best ?

Thanks in advance

 

check out MFactory in the marketplace... they use spherical bearings instead of bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dustin_Pierce &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk2.com why because damn good products. Best money i have spent from them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 skunk2 - I haven't had any problems with the so far....

 

mfactory or function7. I like the mfactory bushings but the function7 design seems better.

 

mfactory has great customer service, but I've heard function7 is hard to get ahold of. I agree about the arm design, that the function7's are probably better designed. I just like the lack of rubber/poly with the mfactory setup. bearings FTW

pics of the MFactory LCA's are in my build thread (see sig)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x i b v r i a n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as the title says,
i haven't had a chance to ask people around, why not ask HT for best result
is there any diferent regarding function, durability, light weight etc between skunk2, blox, megan, D2 or any aftermarket rear LCA for EF ?
which one of them is the best ?

Thanks in advance
</TD></TR></TABLE>

none of them last as long as OEM will.

i paid $130 shipped for a pair of OEM lca. brand new bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

none of them last as long as OEM will.

i paid $130 shipped for a pair of OEM lca. brand new bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am with Tyson on this one. There is really no point to these aftermarket pieces.

 

Here here. My stock rear ones work fine. And if you ever felt the need to go race-car status you can get the spherical bearings from progress. binding solved, unbolt em and those LCAs will hang loose like a set of bull *********, and not move a bit when under cornering load.

 

OEM is by far the best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check out MFactory in the marketplace... they use spherical bearings instead of bushings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not recommend spherical steel bearings for a daily driver, its a brick ride, literally. My polys are bad enough I can't imagine metal on metal........

 

oh its horrible. My buddy has a auto-x / dd C4 vette with a few spherical joints in it.... unbelievable.

I guess some kids have kidneys of steel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would not recommend spherical steel bearings for a daily driver, its a brick ride, literally. My polys are bad enough I can't imagine metal on metal........</TD></TR></TABLE>

Until you guys actually try our bearings, you would be pleasantly surprised

We have plenty of people running our parts on their DD's

 

not to be confrontational, but care to share why your metal on metal contact surface is a smoother ride? Or is it that it 'just isn't that bad'?

I love your products, but just because people use them on their DD's doesn't mean much. Alot of people are willing to give up more then others for their dailys (see unsprung clutch).

 

Although it is a bearing, it is not really metal-on-metal contact i.e there is a lubricating layer in-between, although this doesn't do much as to affect the ride quality.

The reason for "harshness" is not because of the metal-on-metal contact, but because of the transfer of vibration. With a bearing, there is no longer that "rubber cushion" there to absorb it, therefore it really just depends on the part that you are replacing and what sort of surface you will be driving on.

And yes, it really "isn't that bad" after you've tried it

 

I understand how a heim joint works. I'm a QA1 dealer and I understand why it transfers the vibration. But unfortunately for some of us in the midwest and the NE, there is no glassy paved roads. As I said in my previous post, I have tried it, its unmanagable unless you drive in areas with pristine pavement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

none of them last as long as OEM will.

i paid $130 shipped for a pair of OEM lca. brand new bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am with Tyson on this one. There is really no point to these aftermarket pieces.</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock usdm 88-00 civic & 90-01 integra (except the itr) rear lca's have the fork mounted shocks. the 88 crx has the ball mount rear shock, same style found on the type r. 88 civic/crx & type-r LCA's have a hole where the shock drops down into and a bolt runs through the lca and into the stock shock (its like threading a needle). box type are stronger than forks type lca's & gives you more options for shocks






Modified by roastbeefrichie at 3:34 PM 10/21/2007

 

Getting back to the OP's question though, there really is no "best". It all comes down to what you will be using your car for. What's best for one application may not be the same for another.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MFactory &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Getting back to the OP's question though, there really is no "best". It all comes down to what you will be using your car for. What's best for one application may not be the same for another.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well said and with that, there is your answer.