ok i just installed greddy kit for my car... the car was stolen but recovered. then i replaced the key cylinder and installed the kit along with apexi tt and some gauges..so today i basically tried to fire up the car but it would NOT crank at all.... thought it was the TT somehow so i disconnect just the power to it but still wont crank. i get power for the ignition switch and no fuse blown. i used the cheap crimp-on to wire the blue box to tghe ecu just beacuse i didnt want to peel off the ecu wire... can this be the problem?? blue box is blinking so im guess its working fine but yea no crank........ anyone have any idea whats wrong??? also i have rc 440 injector instead of the 310 the one that comes with the kit..... im not sure if i wired that right but i should still get crank rite??? there is fuel pressure also..... please HELP

 

We need to know what you have and dont have, spark, fuel pressure, flooded spark plugs. A blinking light may just mean it has power, it may not mean it is not keeping the car from starting, more troubleshooting on your part please.

 

the engine wont even turn over..... i have fuel pressure though everything seems fine when car on but will not crank.... thinking ignition system or ecu possibly......

 

id hate to sound cliche, but did you test the battery/starter?

 

You are using the word CRANK, this means no starter, do you mean it wont start, it wont fire. Still need to check the basics. Look at some FAQs for no start, no starter, or what ever is missing, no spark. We can help more after you do some reading and give us a better description please.

 

do a compression test

 

So the engine is not turning over? then the starter is not operating or you messed up some wires while installing the turbo timer

If the engine is cranking but not starting, disconnect the blue box and see if it start with it unplug.

 

no the engine would not turn meaning it will not start and the starter is not even engaging..... it is not the starter most def and also not the battery because i had fully charged jumper box on the battery..... looked at the TT and though that was it and disconenct TT at ignition (not ECU) and powered it off but still did not crank..... compression is good....

 

Well there is only one reason, if everything is working fine before you try to install the turbo timer. Now that you splice into the wiring, you must of messed something up for it not to crank when you turn the key.

Look over the wiring that you mess with and make sure it is correct

 

Remote (signal) wire to starter? On the start there's a single little wire that clips in a little slide tab. If that wires not in that tab to start. Did you bypass the clutch safety switch for any odd reason doing the t.t. or anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohczcturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remote (signal) wire to starter? On the start there's a single little wire that clips in a little slide tab. If that wires not in that tab to start. Did you bypass the clutch safety switch for any odd reason doing the t.t. or anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly, i always knock the starter signal wire off when im working in that area.

 

are you guys referring to the start tab that goes on right behind key cylinder i think??
its screw down with a real small phillps head??? and thats the thing that makes the sound when the car is off and key is in the ignition???? if thats it then i put that into place already...... if not tell me where it is please~~

 

also i did not tryu to start the car after replacing key cylinder..... which i really should have....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiLLtegRax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you guys referring to the start tab that goes on right behind key cylinder i think??
its screw down with a real small phillps head??? and thats the thing that makes the sound when the car is off and key is in the ignition???? if thats it then i put that into place already...... if not tell me where it is please~~</TD></TR></TABLE>

talking about the actual starter signal wire on the starter itself. its on the solenoid part of the starter. i think its a black wire with white stripe. its the only other wire on the starter and its only a female space connector so i can be easily pulled off.

 

icic ill check it out tomorrow but i doubt it came off loose because i didnt even get close enough to mess with starter wires.... ill check it out thoguh....

 

Mines came off a couple times just from driving with o.e.m. mounts and boost. It tooks the motor back and forth and sometimes pops off. I took a pair of pliars and mushed it a little to make it a tighter fit. But ya, check the simple stuff first I'd say.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiLLtegRax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so today i basically tried to fire up the car but it would NOT crank at all....</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a compression test</TD></TR></TABLE>

I almost LOL'd.

 

whew started the car today.... ended up being one of the ignition wire + battery being completely dead..... its fine now..... but i got another questions for ya.....
how do you guys route the vacuum for the wastegate, BOV, and the inlet valve on the valve cover where it suppose to intake????
do you use any vacuum source for all of that with T fitting?

also where should my fuel psi be??? its sitting at like 32 i think right now..... its basically greddy kit with fuel rail,440rc injector, because i didnt have 310 injector........ is there something i should get tempoary before i get a standalone unit??? (not sure when im getting it)

 

get a vacuum block and put it in the line of the brake booster. Then just run all your fittings off their. About $20-$30 for one but looks a million times better than t-ing everything and keeps it simple incase something goes wrong.
As for the valve cover most people just put a breather filter on it but I'd recomend running an oil catch can setup.

 

what does the oil catch car do exactly??? also i cant wait until the vacuum block even if i get it now...... lol

 

With a boosted engine you tend to get more blow by past the rings, this blow by goes through the PCV Valve and gets burned with the air fuel mixture, this tends to oil up your plugs a little over time and it robs HP also, the catch can collects these oil fumes in a remote location allowing you to monitor how much blow by you have, saving a little time on your plugs and increasing your HP a tad. There are many set ups, I would say the more you spend on one, the kewler it looks but nothing fancy is required.

Also on the dead battery, sometimes a dead battery will suck up all the juice from a jumper box and kick you in the *** like this one did, its always a good idea to keep at least a cheapy voltmeter in the tool box, it only takes 300ma to light up a test light to full brightness, not a good diagnostic aid in some cases.

 

lol icic well for the battery dont even talk about it..... lol
i was getting like 9 V thought it would be good with jumper box but i guess it wasnt when you crank it....lol so back to the question mang

how do you guys route the vacuum for the wastegate, BOV, and the inlet valve on the valve cover where it suppose to intake????
do you use any vacuum source for all of that with T fitting?

also where should my fuel psi be??? its sitting at like 32 i think right now..... its basically greddy kit with fuel rail,440rc injector, because i didnt have 310 injector........ is there something i should get tempoary before i get a standalone unit??? (not sure when im getting it)

 

I was able to get a plastic one for about $3 from a local auto parts store. Wasn't the prettiest bling'n thing under the hood, but it looked wickedly o.e.m. lol.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiLLtegRax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does the oil catch car do exactly??? also i cant wait until the vacuum block even if i get it now...... lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

how do you guys route the vacuum for the wastegate, BOV, and the inlet valve on the valve cover where it suppose to intake????
do you use any vacuum source for all of that with T fitting?

also where should my fuel psi be??? its sitting at like 32 i think right now..... its basically greddy kit with fuel rail,440rc injector, because i didnt have 310 injector........ is there something i should get tempoary before i get a standalone unit??? (hopefully soon)

how do you adjust timing from the distributor??? also what number should i be looking at on my a/f ratio??? i believe 14.7 was stoich???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiLLtegRax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you guys route the vacuum for the wastegate, BOV, and the inlet valve on the valve cover where it suppose to intake????
do you use any vacuum source for all of that with T fitting?
Vacuum for wategate = off the turbo compressor or before TB,
Vacumme for BOV is after the TB
The inlet valve well that is up to you, most will leave it open and just put a filter on it, or connect it to a OCC to keep the fluids in check and your engine bay clean

also where should my fuel psi be??? its sitting at like 32 i think right now..... its basically greddy kit with fuel rail,440rc injector, because i didnt have 310 injector........ is there something i should get tempoary before i get a standalone unit??? (hopefully soon)
Honda stock FP is 42psi with the vacuum off however since you got bigger injectors you better get your **** tuned before you waste too much money on gas and kill your rings

You do not need a standalone to get it tuned as there are many programs out there that can tune your car without breaking the bank.

how do you adjust timing from the distributor??? also what number should i be looking at on my a/f ratio??? i believe 14.7 was stoich???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bottom line you need to get it tuned, if ya don't know how to adjust timing then my suggestion to you would be to leave it to the tuner as they will make your motor last

Hope that helps.