so heres the story, I had 17" wheels with tokito blue struts and coilovers, i got an aligment everything was fine.


Since then Ive put in kyb agx struts, same ride height on the coilovers, and 16" rota grids with 205/45/16 tires.

My passanger tire EATS the hell out of the tire, I mean, not just the inside, the WHOLE thing is worst than a slick.

Now, I noticed the wishbones are backwards "VR" is on the left and " VL" is on the right.....

when I say WISHBONE, I refer to the wioshbone looking thing that bolts to the lower contral arm, and holts the strut on place.

( reason for this is cuz the old tokito blues struts was for an older civic like 91 so i use the 91 wishbones too, when i out in the AGX struts there for a 95 civic i put the 95 civic wishboines back in) i must have been drunk when i put the wishbones in to put them backwards.

yes, I need an aligment, but im trying to find out what caused the passanger tire to eat up soooo fast. wishbones?




Modified by Metal Head at 3:42 PM 10/17/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need an alignment</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's your answer.

 

I like Tokito's, but in San Diego they spell them taquitos. I have seen rear lower control arms flipped upside down on a Civic before, but reverse them left to right and vice-versa should not be an issue as they are the same part. If you know you need an alignment, then you should really get that done before trying to troubleshoot a severe tire wear issue.

 

true that, its weird, the driver side tire is still like new, the passanger was BALD no tread at all.

I wonder if the tie rods are shot.
I know the front sway bar bushings are done.

 

I'm assuming that by wishbones you're referring to the front upper control arms. Reversing the front upper control arms will add some caster. I think Tuner N00b on here runs his reversed for the increased caster.

I don't think it's really a problem, other than slightly increased steering effort (it actually should improve straight-line stability), but you would definitely need an alignment after changing the caster. Like camber, I'm sure that the change in caster has also affected toe-in and is causing the tires to wear out really bad.

 

when I say WISHBONE, I refer to the wioshbone looking thing that bolts to the lower contral arm, and holts the strut on place.

 

switch them correctly. the only difference it would make, if any, is a slightly different ride height as the shock angle might be off a bit.

actually, i, im kind of surprised your axles didnt rub if they were put on the wrong side.... makes me wonder....

you need an alignment, badly. its all because of your bad alignment.

 

eh, the axles i think are popping now too..

 

well there you go...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Metal Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when I say WISHBONE, I refer to the wioshbone looking thing that bolts to the lower contral arm, and holts the strut on place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be the shock fork.

Edited: Post below corrects my incorrect statement.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming that by wishbones you're referring to the front upper control arms. Reversing the front upper control arms will add some caster. I think Tuner N00b on here runs his reversed for the increased caster.

I don't think it's really a problem, other than slightly increased steering effort (it actually should improve straight-line stability), but you would definitely need an alignment after changing the caster. Like camber, I'm sure that the change in caster has also affected toe-in and is causing the tires to wear out really bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I made too many simultaneous changes to know how much flipping my UCAs threw my alignment out. I swapped from OEM to SPC camber and caster adjusting UCAs, installed them flipped left to right and adjusted for max caster, eyeballed a near 0 camber setting, and raised the car up 1". When I got to the shop, I was running some seriously bad toe settings.

It does increase steering effort (I prefer it). It certainly increases straight line stability (car tramlines much less, goes into threshold braking from high speed with more stability). It also changes Ackerman, as it moves the tie rod ends further back from the steering box (I frequently find my tires making squealing sounds in parking lots when it wouldn't do so before). Since the upper balljoint is now in a different location relative to the shock tower, it changes how far the suspension can compress before the UCA contacts (there is less available travel, and I have dents in my shock towers from contact). All this, and it only increased my caster from the stock 1* to 4*. Its about +1.5* for the flip, and my UCAs adjust caster +- 1.5*.

Anyway, just wanted to throw that out there in case someone else decides to swap their UCAs. There are consequences to consider before doing it.


Modified by TunerN00b at 4:16 PM 10/18/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That would be the shock fork.

To my knowledge, flipping them left to right shouldn't do much of anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would actually cause clearance problems with the axle shaft if they were reversed.

 

hmm, looks like im due up for a 4 wheel alignment. My driver side Rear tire is wearing BAD on the inner tire......

guess ill need some washers for the rear and a good alignemt all the way around.