Camber kit
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Florida, Hillsborough
Camber kit
What camber kit/ control arms/ Coild overs would be best for a 4 door GS-R? Blox, Skunk2, Omni, Function7, Buddy Club, Tien, Mugen.
I want to start by getting the camber kit first.
Thanks
I want to start by getting the camber kit first.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Florida, Hillsborough
Re: Camber kit (El Lento DB8)
I need a good combo for my suspension. If anyone konws any good combination with a reasonable price let me know. I want to research before buying.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,539
Likes: 5
From: Sherman Oaks, CA, United States
Re: Camber kit (El Lento DB8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Lento DB8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What camber kit/ control arms/ Coild overs would be best for a 4 door GS-R? Blox, Skunk2, Omni, Function7, Buddy Club, Tien, Mugen.
I want to start by getting the camber kit first.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, here's the correct way to do it.
1) Don't get a front camber kit. They hurt more than help.
2) Don't get aftermarket control arms. Waste of money for an Integra.
3) Decide on your intended use of the car, and pick spring rates and ride height accordingly.
4) Pick shocks that can handle your chosen rates.
5) Buy and install springs and shocks.
6) Get the car aligned.
Some explanations for the list.
1) Our cars are rather limited in the amount of clearance for the suspension up front. Lowering makes this worse. Adding a camber kit (offset balljoint or replacement UCA), further reduces what little clearance remained after lowering. My shock towers are dented from contact with my aftermarket UCAs (camber kit), and I'm hardly that low (2 finger gap). You really can't get an Integra low enough to produce enough negative camber up front to worry about.
2) Integras came with both front and rear swaybars. We don't need to swap LCAs to change to a different swaybar.
3) A daily driver will probably be best sprung softer than a track only car. You need to decide what rates are best for you, and go from there.
4) If you're using 900 lbs/in race springs, you'll need different shocks than someone on Eibach Sportlines (for example).
5) Self explanatory.
6) This is very important. Changing ride height changes toe settings. Bad toe settings will kill tires in no time.
I want to start by getting the camber kit first.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, here's the correct way to do it.
1) Don't get a front camber kit. They hurt more than help.
2) Don't get aftermarket control arms. Waste of money for an Integra.
3) Decide on your intended use of the car, and pick spring rates and ride height accordingly.
4) Pick shocks that can handle your chosen rates.
5) Buy and install springs and shocks.
6) Get the car aligned.
Some explanations for the list.
1) Our cars are rather limited in the amount of clearance for the suspension up front. Lowering makes this worse. Adding a camber kit (offset balljoint or replacement UCA), further reduces what little clearance remained after lowering. My shock towers are dented from contact with my aftermarket UCAs (camber kit), and I'm hardly that low (2 finger gap). You really can't get an Integra low enough to produce enough negative camber up front to worry about.
2) Integras came with both front and rear swaybars. We don't need to swap LCAs to change to a different swaybar.
3) A daily driver will probably be best sprung softer than a track only car. You need to decide what rates are best for you, and go from there.
4) If you're using 900 lbs/in race springs, you'll need different shocks than someone on Eibach Sportlines (for example).
5) Self explanatory.
6) This is very important. Changing ride height changes toe settings. Bad toe settings will kill tires in no time.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 661
Likes: 0
From: hella east bay
Re: (vietxdragon)
thanks for tha info tunernoob. i was thinkin bout pickin up camber kits. but yea my teg is hella low you could call it slammed for an integra and i only notice slight camber. i hate how we cant slam tegs like people slam civics. 
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,539
Likes: 5
From: Sherman Oaks, CA, United States
Re: (El Lento DB8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Lento DB8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about just coil overs, bushings upgrade, aftermarket antisway bars, and front+rear strut tower bars? I want the car to be low but not too low.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds like you really just want to spend a bunch of money, and don't care if you actually need any of the parts.
Only the "coil overs" have anything to do with lowering.
Just make certain that you chose ones with a spring rate your existing shocks can handle, or are planning on buying appropriate shocks. Stock shocks won't last very long with either high spring rates, or a low stance.
Bushing upgrade? I can understand replacing worn out stock bushings, but polyurethane is not something I'd ever put on a street car. Others have differing opinions on this, but the trailing arm bushings need more movement than polyurethane allows.
"Strut bars" are a funny notion, on a car that doesn't have struts. In theory, they add chassis stiffness. In reality, I think most street cars aren't sprung stiff enough, or pushed hard enough, to even notice any difference in body flex. I couldn't even tell the difference when autocrossing my GSR with or without the factory front brace, but I do run it since, well, the car came with it and I already have it. A rear upper brace, just sounds like a trunk space killer to me. Others will disagree.
The GSR came from the factory with the largest stock front ARB available in the US (to my knowledge) that fits on the car. Upgrading the rear is a common mod. I'd start with springs and shocks, and then if you aren't content, consider upgrading the rear.
It sounds like you really just want to spend a bunch of money, and don't care if you actually need any of the parts.
Only the "coil overs" have anything to do with lowering.
Just make certain that you chose ones with a spring rate your existing shocks can handle, or are planning on buying appropriate shocks. Stock shocks won't last very long with either high spring rates, or a low stance.
Bushing upgrade? I can understand replacing worn out stock bushings, but polyurethane is not something I'd ever put on a street car. Others have differing opinions on this, but the trailing arm bushings need more movement than polyurethane allows.
"Strut bars" are a funny notion, on a car that doesn't have struts. In theory, they add chassis stiffness. In reality, I think most street cars aren't sprung stiff enough, or pushed hard enough, to even notice any difference in body flex. I couldn't even tell the difference when autocrossing my GSR with or without the factory front brace, but I do run it since, well, the car came with it and I already have it. A rear upper brace, just sounds like a trunk space killer to me. Others will disagree.
The GSR came from the factory with the largest stock front ARB available in the US (to my knowledge) that fits on the car. Upgrading the rear is a common mod. I'd start with springs and shocks, and then if you aren't content, consider upgrading the rear.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Florida, Hillsborough
Re: (TunerN00b)
I hear that Tokicos and Tien shocks are good w/some aftermarket springs. Well the bushings could be replaced w/ new factory ones. Are the any particular good brands at fair prices?
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