Hey guys, quick question
---94 civic ex auto---

How do I stop the crank pulley from spinning?

Im doing the TB replacement and with my GSR i put it in 5th and had my bro jam on the brakes.

With the 94 civic ex AUTOMATIC. It keeps spinning when trying to take the bolt off. How do I get it to stop spinning? I really dont want to put a screw driver in where my starter goes!

 

Time to purchase the crank pully tool. Seriously it pays for itself just by doing 2 TB jobs on your own car.

What happens if you put it in D or R?

 

buy an inpact gun and save your self alot of time and pain or keep on trying

 

Buy a crank pulley tool or do something like this:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a crank pulley tool or do something like this:

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OMG how many times have you done that without breaking something??????????!!!!!!!!!!!??????????

OP: buy a crank pulley tool. they work great and they don't break anything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegas hoe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OMG how many times have you done that without breaking something??????????!!!!!!!!!!!??????????

OP: buy a crank pulley tool. they work great and they don't break anything
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A few...

I'm confident in the bolts' strength. Do you have evidence that suggests otherwise?

 

Chain wrench, cost me like thirty bucks.... bolt came loose in thirty seconds and it didn't even damage the belt groove ridges...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What happens if you put it in D or R? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You must be joking right???

A torque converter is fluid only, no mechanical connection will occur until 4th gear at 40mph or faster...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You must be joking right???

A torque converter is fluid only, no mechanical connection will occur until 4th gear at 40mph or faster...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah, yea i dont pay to much attention to the autos, i just know how to swap them for manuals, so i thought id ask

 

put a screwdriver in the front brake rotors and it wont spin on you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put a screwdriver in the front brake rotors and it wont spin on you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an auto; that won't work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's an auto; that won't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really?! guess you learn something new everyday. i guess, i would use the "official tool" or a impact wrench. the electic dewalt one from home depot works great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really?! guess you learn something new everyday.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The torque converter is a fluid connection, as stated, so even though you're preventing the rotor from spinning, the flywheel will still move freely.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess, i would use the "official tool" or a impact wrench. the electic dewalt one from home depot works great.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since he has a d16, he can use the "official tool", which may prove to be a good investment. You really do not need any impact tools for this.

 

I'd just get the $25 Crank Pulley Tool.

 

Use an impact. Or the tool is $60....which is cheaper than an impact.

 

pipe chain wrench. great tool for lots of things including holding the pulley, loosening clutch/fly wheel bolts... great stuff.

 

BTW-i live in Buffalo and the civic has 14 yrs of salt/rust on it...im shure the thing is stuck. I cant try the impact gun...which i have until i get the pulley to stop spinning

ill check out that tool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpkmrtoes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pipe chain wrench. great tool for lots of things including holding the pulley, loosening clutch/fly wheel bolts... great stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Maybe they'll listen to you, since I already said this....

 

pipe chain wrench? where does that go? directly o the crank pulley? then hit up that bolt while holding the pipe chain wrench

 

on my 96 dx I don't used the outter most pulley so that's the one I used but I made sure to look at the pully afterwards and I saw ZERO damage to the pulley. BUT if you are unsure of wrapping the wrench around the pulley bar you can use some old belt or something to protect it.

But yes you simply wrap the chain around the pulley, apply pressure and then hit it with the which ever means of wrench you're attempting to remove the bolt with.

 

alright cool...the ppipe wrench worked great the bolt came off and now im actually to the point of putting the covers back on

QUESTIONS:
1) how do I make sure theres enough tension? The T.Pulley moves around freely and the bolt in the middle of it can be cranked down to hole the pulley from moving, but whats good tension? I pushed up on it making the tension tight and cranked on the bolt, so right now the belt is real tight. This ok?

2) I did not remove the cam or the crank pulleys...its not needed to remove them right? I made marks on the teeth and belt to know how many spaces were in between and the belt is on just fine.

3) I have the cam and crank seals but since I didnt take them off I didnt replace them...thin kI should? How hard is it to do this?

If I pull the cam and crank pulley then I will need to set the timing. Less room for error.

 

bump for info

 

To tension the belt, you are supposed to loosen the tensioner, turn the crank three teeth CCW, and then tighten the tensioner.

When I did my water pump, I didn't spin the crank or cam without the belt on. When I put the timing belt back on, I put it TDC after placing the belt just to be sure it was still lined up. If you didn't move them, though, you should be fine.

No idea about the seals. I didn't replace mine on my 94 EX when I did my water pump a month or so ago.

 

pull the starter out and stick a big flat head on the flywheel locking up the teeth

 

THANKS finnstang