i just got my car back from the shop and they told me to bring it back in after a few weeks. that way they can wet sand and buff the whole entire car. they said they couldnt do that right now cuz the paint job is too fresh.

anyways, im hoping that would solve the problem that i have. on some areas of the car, it looks like there is so much clear coat that it made dripping patterns. i dont know how else to describe it. it looks like there was so much clear that it was starting to drip and run down. its in two areas of the car, one is near the edge of the drivers side quarter panel near the door. i'll take pics later on when i can.

 

these are called runs. and sags. i dont understand why they couldnt wetsand and buff just then. we wetsand and buff anything that might have a run in it before it leaves. the way i look at it, its better to fix the problem before the customer sees it cause if the customer spots it hes gonna be picky and bitchin about everything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DVS Luder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just got my car back from the shop and they told me to bring it back in after a few weeks. that way they can wet sand and buff the whole entire car. they said they couldnt do that right now cuz the paint job is too fresh.

anyways, im hoping that would solve the problem that i have. on some areas of the car, it looks like there is so much clear coat that it made dripping patterns. i dont know how else to describe it. it looks like there was so much clear that it was starting to drip and run down. its in two areas of the car, one is near the edge of the drivers side quarter panel near the door. i'll take pics later on when i can.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Please do so Is it a run or a sag on that area???

 

They're suppose to hit that little area "The Run" with 600 and then 1500 the whole car with Rubbing compund, and then swirl remover ,then glaze to leave that show finish.

 

thanks everyone, here is a pic btw sooo...fixable?

 

Yes those are runs they could get rid off

 

IMO, 600 is a little coarse. the lowest i go is 1000. most of the time tho, ill use 1500.

 

Yeah I use 600 wet on strictly the runs or sags and then 1500 then the whole car and it looks great

 

thats not cool they just gave it back to you like that but yeah its fixable... 1500 and buff it out.. you can also use a razor blaze to get some of those heavy runs off.. IF your careful

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alltech_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not cool they just gave it back to you like that but yeah its fixable... 1500 and buff it out.. you can also use a razor blaze to get some of those heavy runs off.. IF your careful </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yupp I heard factory cars that had defaults due to the machinary. Had people in the other station to inspect the cars. And if they see a thick run, they would use a razor. And cut the run off, and buff it. I thought that was crazy the first time I heard that lol.

 

i wouldnt recommend the razor to anyone who hasnt done it before. i would say practice on some spare panels u might have like extra doors, fenders, etc. cause u dont wanna dig a nice scratch in ur freshly painted car

 

werd! thats why IF*** lol
and if you do use a razor blade make sure and dull the edges so you wont end up digging into the paint.. just run the corners of the blaze against a concrete floor or something a few times Thankfully i havent had to use this method

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alltech_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">werd! thats why IF*** lol
and if you do use a razor blade make sure and dull the edges so you wont end up digging into the paint.. just run the corners of the blaze against a concrete floor or something a few times Thankfully i havent had to use this method
</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here,I think you shouldn't mess with that just get it water sanded and buffed

 

First of all,
that shop is lying. Any pro painter should be able to get those runs out with a razor blade+sandpaper+buffer. Plus buffing and wet-sanding can be done as soon as the paint is dried.
Just a heads up.
You did your job by paying up, now make them do theirs by fixing everything ASAP.

You don't get what you paid for, you get what you want. It's up to how you demand and how much you want it.

Good luck

 

very true

 

It is called picture framing, it happens when you overlap the edges to much and gets so heavy, it runs all the way down the edges of the door. I used to make the same mistakes when I first started painting, but learned quickly how to prevent them. Either way, they shouldn't let you see that. Just like everyone else posted.


Modified by SneezinCD5 at 11:57 PM 10/8/2007

 

Definitely go back and make sure that they take those out, without you taking out your wallet.

 

strange they would want the paint be cure and harden before they wet sand it???
strange in deed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alltech_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">werd! thats why IF*** lol
and if you do use a razor blade make sure and dull the edges so you wont end up digging into the paint.. just run the corners of the blaze against a concrete floor or something a few times Thankfully i havent had to use this method
</TD></TR></TABLE> or you can put some tape on them that way you dont cut so deep.. any if you guys used the little block of wood with the file on it? im not sure who makes them but i use it at work all the time. it works so good to get out little runs a dirt spots in the clear..

 

Make em fix it asap and dont pay em a cent. I just wonder why they said bring it back in a couple weeks and they would do it?

 

you could just do it yourself. I would do a very light 1500 wet sand, then go back over that with 2000. The 3M website will tell you how to buff it in 3 stages. their products are a little on the expensive side, but they are the best.

*edit* We wet sand and buff no more than an hour after our cars are painted. by then the clear has dried enough to wet sand and buff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">strange they would want the paint be cure and harden before they wet sand it???
strange in deed</TD></TR></TABLE>

You obviously don't know what your talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KillSwitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You obviously don't know what your talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE> why do you say that? if i get a run in paint i sand and buff on it the next day.

 

Well the next day would mean the paint is in a hardened state and cured, obviously not fully cured. Saying that its strange to wet sand when the paint is cured and hardened doesn't make sense.

 

it takes a month for clear to "harden"