ok since my 90 accord ex 5spd keeps overheating ive done a few things
-changed radiator
-new thermostat
-new radiator hoses
-new coolant by-pass hose

and it still overheats, i was told to bleed the coolant because air might be in the system and the problem should go away. is this true?

and when bleeding car is on correct?

 

The last time someone of the forums had an overheat problem, they created it by hooking up some hoses backwards, how are yours, yes, you could very well have air in the system. See if Autozone has a coolant attachment to go on top of the radiator cap fitting, you fill it with water, like a half gallon, its high over the radiator so the air tends to bleed out of the system with this extra weight of water on top, laws of physics takes over here, I also like to run the motor up to 3000 RPM and watch bubbles come up though the container also, you should know when the job is done, you can control the throttle from under the hood.

 

ever think about your head gasket?

 

well i searched and people said you can bleed it with the car on or off.
does it make much of a difference if i do it when its cold and off?

yea, head gasket should be fine because there is no oily substance in my radiator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_2dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
does it make much of a difference if i do it when its cold and off?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the way I do it. Just crack open the bleeder and add antireeze until it's full and no bubbles come out.

 

could be a bad sensor

 

If air is in the system it's an easy fix. Drain the coolant, open the bleed bolt (should be just under where the thermostat goes), and fill until the coolant starts coming out of the bleeder bolt, close the bleeder bolt, put the radiator cap back on, turn the heater to full hot, run the engine until the fan comes on a couple times, open the radiator cap again (be careful and release the pressure before removing the cap), run the engine and top off the radiator and the reserve tank. If that does not work, you have another problem.

 

thanks for the replies guys.

well <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidcool1977 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be a bad sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought of this. could it be the one connected to the thermostat?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's the way I do it. Just crack open the bleeder and add antireeze until it's full and no bubbles come out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think this is the easiest, and the bubbles will still come out when the car is cold?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_2dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i searched and people said you can bleed it with the car on or off.
does it make much of a difference if i do it when its cold and off?

yea, head gasket should be fine because there is no oily substance in my radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because there is no oil in your water does not mean that the head gasket is not bad.....

 

well how would i check?

 

The bleeder is not a garantee, some guys jack the front of the car up as high as they can to try to get the air bubbles towards the front of the car, ie, radiator. Bleeding a cold engine, not running, thermostat still closed, not so sure I would concider that an approved method for your scenario. Air has to be in the head, the bleeder is lower than the head.

 

i always bled the system in my '94 with the engine running and bleeder screw open. never had issues.

Also the rad caps on these cars are a point of failure and will fail in the open position. before you go digging too deep due to bubbling coolant, replace the rad cap for $15

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always bled the system in my '94 with the engine running and bleeder screw open. never had issues.

Also the rad caps on these cars are a point of failure and will fail in the open position. before you go digging too deep due to bubbling coolant, replace the rad cap for $15</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if i do this. i start the car with the rad cap off? and open the bleeder a little bit until there is no more bubbles?
and ive replaced the rad cap

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bleeder is not a garantee, some guys jack the front of the car up as high as they can to try to get the air bubbles towards the front of the car, ie, radiator. Bleeding a cold engine, not running, thermostat still closed, not so sure I would concider that an approved method for your scenario. Air has to be in the head, the bleeder is lower than the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried bleeding it cold, either i didnt do it right or it just didnt work

 

well, you are suppose to do it cold, cause i did mine a few weeks backs and i mis-understood the instructions in the manual and bled it with engine running and i almost overheated my DAMM CAR(real genius i was) but you can do it with the engine running but you MUST MAKE SURE YOU KEEP REFFiLING YOUR RADIATOR.
OR if you do it with the engine cold just turn your heater **** to HIGH open the bleed screw and pour in coolant then START your engine, i think you have to run the engine with the cap off i forgot. and if you are still overheating i would check the sensors, assuming you will need a volt meter to check resistance.

 

bleed it cold and not running but keep refilling the radiator, makes minimal sense, how can the air move around if the water pump is not trying to move the air around, as we have seen in this case and others, sometimes running the engine needs some other tactics to get the job done.

 

are both fans working ?? have you done a leakage test ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are both fans working ?? have you done a leakage test ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i know my passenger side turns on sometimes, but on my driver side, ive never seen/heard it turn on


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidcool1977 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, you are suppose to do it cold, cause i did mine a few weeks backs and i mis-understood the instructions in the manual and bled it with engine running and i almost overheated my DAMM CAR(real genius i was) but you can do it with the engine running but you MUST MAKE SURE YOU KEEP REFFiLING YOUR RADIATOR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think this is better for me since my heater doesnt work. but if i bleed it running, do i start the car with the cap off first? or does it already need to be hot? thanks for the help

 

I fill the engine cold with bolt open. then start car and add coolant and keep adding until rad was full and no more bubbles came out of the bleeder nipple. takes about 5 - 10 mins with engine idling. once I finish, O fill the overflow tank to the top and check overflow tank over next couple of days. Never had a problem.

EDIT: you need to make sure that you heater is on while you are doing this


Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 11:55 PM 10/8/2007

 

[QUOTE=accord_2dr]

i know my passenger side turns on sometimes, but on my driver side, ive never seen/heard it turn on


i think this is better for me since my heater doesnt work. but if i bleed it running, do i start the car with the cap off first? or does it already need to be hot? thanks for the help[/QUOT

well, think about it you need to check for bubbles and if you are bledding it(while engine is running) you need to keep re-filling the Rad. SO yes start the with cap off. Also i were you i'd also do that pressure test ppl on here told you about.

yep,

 

thanks guys. ill do that tomorrow and see how it goes

 

Why doesnt your heater work, does the AC work, turn it on and both fans must work then.

 

hey so i just now have time..but before i bleed, wont it be a waste if my heater doesnt even work? i dont know why it doesnt, but if it doesnt, dont you think that it would just be a waste?

 

so i went ahead and bled it anyway.
1. opened rad cap
2. put heater to hot, even though it doesnt work
3. open bleeder valve
4. started car and added coolant until there was a stream of coolant coming out of the bleeder valve.
5. still overheating.

 

Heater does not work and you dont know why, how about the heater core is full of air that you cant seem to get out with your bleeding procedures and the air elsewhere in the engine, how about the heater core is clogged with the same stuff that is clogging your radiator and causing your engine to overheat, how about your heater valve (if you have one) does not open to allow hot water to flow through the heater core, how about the heater core leaked before so someone bypassed it, are you the original owner, did the heater work before. How about your two fans that I asked about, are they both working or not.

If all of this is good, then time to go to a radiator shop and get it inspected, bleeding it your way is not working on your car. A blown head gasket is still a possiblility.

 

is the system pressuised when the car warms up? might be a bad pump or HG