Well, i've located a low mileage b20 and am going to get a price hopefully this weekend. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to pick it up and try to find an obd1 vtec head (b16 or b18, doesn't matter, rather the b16 tho) to put on it. I'm not going to swap it without finding a vtec head though, so thats out of the question.

Now, would this motor be worth setting up like this without doing a full build, and what kind of rpm range are we looking at? A local guy keeps telling me that b20 bottom ends are garbage stock with a vtec head.

This is opposed to putting the same money into my current setup, an obd1 a6/z6 mini-me.

I know the potential is always greater for b series, but basically how well will a b20/b16 hold up to punishment of being a DD and weekend warrior, and what would be a safe rpm to push it too?

 

you'd want to swap over the B16 pistons as well to feel the full potential of the B20/vtec.

 

IMHO I would never do a b20 VTec. The b20 block has extremely thin walls and seems to like to blow often. Just do a b-series swap or an h-series. Or go my route and do an h2b.

 

B20vtec is only for people who want to be fast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by denraweb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMHO I would never do a b20 VTec. The b20 block has extremely thin walls and seems to like to blow often. Just do a b-series swap or an h-series. Or go my route and do an h2b. </TD></TR></TABLE>


oh brother.


i know of many b20vtec motors in streetcars that have lasted years.

 

from my searching on HT the b20 isnt at all a "bad" motor from what erry1 says u just have to know the limitations it has just like any other motor...

 

I hate that bullshit.

People who blow motors they build usually didn't build them right. Unwavering accuracy and painstakingly indepth measurements and evaluations is what makes high power motors work time and time again. Some of the things i've seen people call 'built' have performance internals in them, but by are NO means built.

That being said, read this and learn from what others have done. Theres nothing AT ALL wrong with a b20 block. Just ask the guys that are making 145-160 wtq NA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'd want to swap over the B16 pistons as well to feel the full potential of the B20/vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well that wont work, B16=81mm bore, B20=84mm. You would have to run aftermarket pistons if you want to replace the OEM B20s

and as already mentioned, the B20v is a freakin beast that will last as long as the quality of the build. The best thing you can do for a B20 though is to use a block gaurd (installed properly!) since the thin cylinder walls are the weakest point. The motor will be able to handle 8,700rpms+ w/o problems.

 

Wow. Another guess thread.


Run it stock with a mild turbo setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecSyndrome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
use a block gaurd (installed properly!) </TD></TR></TABLE>
pointless unless its welded in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BILLETGRIP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
pointless unless its welded in</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which just so happens to be the right way


I can't believe this thread has not come up yet, lots of great info even though the op does not give the stock rods and rod bolts their due and a few other things but a great informative thread non the less.

LS/vtec B20/Vtec How to=https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just ask the guys that are making 145-160 wtq NA. </TD></TR></TABLE>


pffffffffft!! k20ftw! easy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecSyndrome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well that wont work, B16=81mm bore, B20=84mm. You would have to run aftermarket pistons if you want to replace the OEM B20s

and as already mentioned, the B20v is a freakin beast that will last as long as the quality of the build. The best thing you can do for a B20 though is to use a block gaurd (installed properly!) since the thin cylinder walls are the weakest point. The motor will be able to handle 8,700rpms+ w/o problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i was totally thinking of LS/VTEC when i posted that too. --&gt; me.

 

Well i'm just wondering how well the stock motor with a b16 head will hold up. I'm not wanting to build it right now, its for my DD, just looking for something fun and i'm tired of all the kids around here with stock b16 ef's and a couple of b18 ek's thinking they're the stuff. IIRC i think the guy said its like 50,000 on the motor, some chick had the crv and rolled it.

Would it be safe to turn to about 8 with stock internals and a b16 head? I've already got the p28 and crome, so i can setup a fuel map and all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xotic_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i'm just wondering how well the stock motor with a b16 head will hold up. I'm not wanting to build it right now, its for my DD, just looking for something fun and i'm tired of all the kids around here with stock b16 ef's and a couple of b18 ek's thinking they're the stuff. IIRC i think the guy said its like 50,000 on the motor, some chick had the crv and rolled it.

Would it be safe to turn to about 8 with stock internals and a b16 head? I've already got the p28 and crome, so i can setup a fuel map and all.</TD></TR></TABLE>


it'll be slow, low compression. you'll still need to run the oil line much like the ls/vtec setup. honestly, you'll probably still get beat by B16 efs and B18 eks.

 

Ah, yea i wasn't too sure about the CR of that setup. So i guess i'll just run my current setup and put some of that money into it.

Might still pick up the b20 if i can get a good price...long term project, haha.

 

well, the stock B20 without a vtec head would still perform better than your current setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, the stock B20 without a vtec head would still perform better than your current setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2, thats why I said add a mild HMT setup.

When will fools listen?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

When will fools listen?</TD></TR></TABLE>


you gotta build em and pay for them first...... of course, then the fools will want to run the ****.

 

You need ARP bolts for the rods. Thats all plus b16 head and ls/vtec conversion. They are very reliable engines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RamaCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need ARP bolts for the rods. Thats all plus b16 head and ls/vtec conversion. They are very reliable engines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another misconseption even though this has been mentioned already in this thread. If noobs would actually READ before they post they might not be hated on so much............well maybe not.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xotic_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah, yea i wasn't too sure about the CR of that setup. So i guess i'll just run my current setup and put some of that money into it.

Might still pick up the b20 if i can get a good price...long term project, haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the most affordable way I have found w/ the B20 bottom end is to have the block decked .030 so the pistons will be flush with the top of the block and this should give you about 11:1 cr with the stock pistons (99-00 pistons). This with a welded in block gaurd will give you a nice setup without having to buy aftermarket pistons (expensive) and it will be reliable since you don't have to worry abou the cyl walls cracking. I also rec brand new HONDA bearings for the bottom end (no need for aftermarket, OEM Hondas bearings are actually used in Nascar engines if you can believe that?!).
All this will still be some what pricey but it's the cheapest reliable way I have found and you'll make some good power even with a stock B16 head. throw in some stage 3 skunk 2 cams (yes the are streetable and even idle fine) with some headwork and a tune and you'll be very happy with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

x2, thats why I said add a mild HMT setup.

When will fools listen?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because i don't want to run a turbo setup on this car. I would have told you if i had. Trying to keep the cost to a minimum without cutting corners.

Main thing i was trying to find out was what was the "weak point" someone kept telling me about, he didn't know just said he thought they were bad. Thanks for letting me know its the cylinder walls.

If i can't get a good deal on the motor, i'm going to just mildly build a D (since i have 2 extra z6 heads and bout to pick up a y8 head)...I kinda like not running what everyone else around here is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


it'll be slow, low compression. you'll still need to run the oil line much like the ls/vtec setup. honestly, you'll probably still get beat by B16 efs and B18 eks.</TD></TR></TABLE> you dont think a b20b with bolt ons can take a b16ef? or even a b18 (ls) ek? with just i/h/e and a semi tuned ecu there making a hell of alot mor tq then a b16 correct me if im wrong by all means....but if you search around man u could probably learn that with basic bolt ons (i/h/e/intake manifold/semi tuned ecu/b16or gsr tranny) you would definitley give them a run for there money and i think in the long run will cost u less money... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1898104

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grey_ghost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you dont think a b20b with bolt ons can take a b16ef? or even a b18 (ls) ek? </TD></TR></TABLE>


nobody said it was an LS b18 either. the cars were mentioned by him, not me.


and honestly..... all the previously mentioned are slow in my opinion. dont try to school me son, i'll send you home with a report due in the morning.


BTW, reported this thread. BENCHRACING.

 

Ok number 1 I aint ur son k Pops after ur done rubbin ur hip down wit sum bengay and sokin urself in epson salt re-read the post..."correct me if I'm wrong" I was by no means even tryin to "school" you at all I was tryin to tell the original poster to search for the potential of the b20...so before u start callin the H-T feds juss re-read the post once again no disrespect I juss dnt take bs