Help me with some wiring "PIX"
Hey there I have a 95 civic si and it got a 95 gsr engine. I went to the referee and he said that I do not have a wire. Its the A17 wire that goes from the ecu to the intake air bypass control solenoid valve. The electric was amazed that my computer was not throwing a code. He said something about the egr not working or something. Can I wire it myself or I need a electric? The electric wanted $50 but if any of you that live in Sacramento can do it for $30 and know something about swaps, then let me know(because the electric did not know nothing about swaps)
THANX A BUNCH
my 95 civic
http://i180.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg
THANX A BUNCH
my 95 civic
http://i180.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg
I believe A17 is a pin location for the secondary butterfly, or IAB controls for the GS-R intake manifold. It won't throw a check engine code. It affects the sets of runners within the GS-R manifold that open up at about 5800rpm to boost high rpm power, but I can't see how it would effect emissions honestly. But Cali is very strict, so every wire must be in place I guess.
$50.00 is fair, but $30.00 is certainly better for you.
BTW your car should not have any EGR at all.
$50.00 is fair, but $30.00 is certainly better for you.
BTW your car should not have any EGR at all.
you need to wire it in. you need one for power and 1 for ground. 50 is a good price if hes gonna give you all the parts too. just make sure he actually gets a pin for the ecu and wire it up. i've seen ppl just stick a wire into the ecu
Print this and take it to the wiring guy:

...and I was right about it being the IAB controls. It's not key to actual emissions, but in Cali it will matter, and you should also notice a slight performance increase too if you're running the factory GS-R intake manifold.

...and I was right about it being the IAB controls. It's not key to actual emissions, but in Cali it will matter, and you should also notice a slight performance increase too if you're running the factory GS-R intake manifold.
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hey by the way that was not the smog part of my reff that was the visual check of my civic/gsr. I failed the smog part too I think he said I was running too rich at 15 mph were it says no (PPM) I had 888 I need no more then 708 so good luck to me! LOL
Unfortunately fixing the IAB wire won't have any positive effect on the actual smog test.
Easy **** you can do to try and nudge you into passing territory is change the oil, change the air filter, install new NGK spark plugs, and make sure you've got good OE or NGK plug wires. These are easy steps to try and help emissions readings.
Beyond that if it still fails you may want to look at a new oxygen sensor, having someone properly adjust valves (has an effect on rich/lean depending on it valves are too loose or tight) and if the NoPPM readings are too high look into having your ignition timing checked as well as possibly looking at a new catalytic convertor.
Do you know exactly which gas you failed on? HC? Co? NoPPM?
Easy **** you can do to try and nudge you into passing territory is change the oil, change the air filter, install new NGK spark plugs, and make sure you've got good OE or NGK plug wires. These are easy steps to try and help emissions readings.
Beyond that if it still fails you may want to look at a new oxygen sensor, having someone properly adjust valves (has an effect on rich/lean depending on it valves are too loose or tight) and if the NoPPM readings are too high look into having your ignition timing checked as well as possibly looking at a new catalytic convertor.
Do you know exactly which gas you failed on? HC? Co? NoPPM?
amke sure the timong is correct. i believe gsr should be 15btdc +/-2. so put it like at 14 degrees. if you more on the advanced side, thats why its making a bit more NOx
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