Seems every morning now when I start my car it's fine until I drive off. When I get to the stop sign at the end of the road it tries to stall. I rev it a few times then it's fine. Has anyone had this prob before?

It did stall on me this morning and was hard to start.


Modified by CBURKE at 11:22 AM 10/5/2007

 

I think it could be something dealing with your fuel.. can't tell with little info.

 

What kind of info would be needed?

1994 Civic
B16A

Do you thing the VAFC could have anything to do with it?

Or a dirty fuel filter?

It used to pudder when I start it after it sitting for a few days not it does this every morning.

 

Is it wideband tuned with the vafc?

My friend had one on his integra, and it hated to idle in the cold.

I think it could also be a FITV or IACV issue too.

 

I will look into that!!!

 

I can just by pass that right?

 

TTT

 

actually if you don't let your motor warm up, and let your tranny fluids get all nice and warm. it can cause for a slower catch since there isn't that mutch heat to create friction.

 

I know it's not that. The car idles fine until I go to drive off then It tries to stall. It did stall on me this morning and was hard to get it started again.

 

exatly what i just explained to you. it has nothing to do with idle

 

In all the Hondas I have owned this has never happend and it be from my tranny.

The tranny is not going to make the car pudder when you stop and want to stall, if that was the case I could just put it in (N) and it would be fine.

 

I did think it was something to do with warming up but it still happens even if I let it warm up.

 

is it a b16?

 

Yes, but I did let the car sit a little longer this morning and it was fine.

Hell I don't know!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm91CrxSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually if you don't let your motor warm up, and let your tranny fluids get all nice and warm. it can cause for a slower catch since there isn't that mutch heat to create friction. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that doesn't make any sense... there's going to be more friction when it's cold because the fluids are cold and not as viscous, hence why the first few shifts in the morning are typically a little harder.

anyway, sounds like the person to tune your vafc may have tuned it too lean down low. when your engine's cold, the ecu is going to a) open the idle air control valve (IACV) to idle it faster for warming up, and b) want to give it more fuel to accommodate for the increased air flow. If there's increased air flow and not enough fuel, it will be too lean =&gt; stall.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did think it was something to do with warming up but it still happens even if I let it warm up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe your IACV could use a cleaning. It could be sticking open. But I would lean towards the VAFC. What kind of -% numbers are we talking about in the narrow throttle range at 500, 1000, 1500, and 2000 rpms?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can just by pass that right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you can bypass the IACV, but that's not fixing the issue... that's ignoring it. Doing so will richen up your mixture which may appear to resolve your problem.

 

When I go the car it had the VAFC on it and I have never touched it. Now correct me if I am wrong but does it reset when you change batters?

I am going to remove it because I can't for the life of me see why it's there anyway. I have a a B16A ecu so I don't need the thing.

 

No, settings are persistent when the power is removed from the unit. Make sure the harness wasn't hacked up too much during the install or else removing it may be a headache since you'd have to solder the harness back together. The easiest thing to do is to go into the settings and return everything back to a 0% modification across both narrow/wide and low/high bands. Then you can use the thing as a digital tach instead of a piggyback Oh yea, also reset your VTEC engagement point to stock.

 

So I don't even need to take it out.
I can solder it back if needed but if I don't need to then hell I guess I'll just put it all back.

What is the Vtec engagement point on a B16?
4500 RPM?

I am also being told it may be the temp sensor the one on the head.

 

I can't seem to find the exact RPM so I would recommend searching further than I have, but if memory serves correctly, a B16A will hit crossover at 5500 or 5600. A B18C GSR crosses over at 4400.

 

Your right, I got it all at 0% now.

There was a graf on there that had like 5% and 1% and 0% I put them all to 0% to.

 

Did that fix the stalling problem or is it still doing it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm91CrxSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually if you don't let your motor warm up, and let your tranny fluids get all nice and warm. it can cause for a slower catch since there isn't that mutch heat to create friction. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themikewoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did that fix the stalling problem or is it still doing it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No I have not fixed that just yet. I let the car warm up in the morn and it has not been doing it.