A/C low side pressure 100 PSI, wtf?
Naw, hasn't been charged in over a year, the car was parked for about 1 month while i rebuilt my motor, put it together, drove it for about a week, then all of a sudden ac doesn't blow out cold air anymore. Checked the pressure, high and low side both at 100 psi, is my comp. bad, bad seals, or what?
I requested a short story for a title.
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
what kind of freon did you put in it?
the freon also acts as a lubricant, because it old and hasnt been charged in so long, maybe some seals dried out and are leakin? just a guess
the freon also acts as a lubricant, because it old and hasnt been charged in so long, maybe some seals dried out and are leakin? just a guess
if u have 100 psi lo, 100 psi high USUALLY means compressor clutch is not engaging. what i always do before jumping to conclusions is charge the correct amount (considering you have put vacuum to the system to suck out moisture) of freon and re-check the pressures. low freon can give you all kinds of weird pressures.
Also, right before hot air started blowing out, i smelled smoke, like when your welding, im thinking a short or the compressor seized up or something?
equal pressure both sides is as mentioned no compressor operation. Hot wire it and see if it works, this will take everything out of the picture, if it works then start troubleshooting and also tell us the pressures while working from being hot wired, dont leave it on too long, several minutes only. Is it also blowing cold air.
EDIT
100 PSI also says that it is damn near full.
EDIT
100 PSI also says that it is damn near full.
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Got a new compressor, jumped it direct and turns on. Low side pressure 50 psi, high side 110 psi. Get cold. But when i connect the compressor back to the stock wiring harness and turn on the ac with the ac switch in the dash, clutch doesn't engage and blows out hot air. How and where do i check for shorts or bad wiring. Also, i can't find the a/c relay in the fuse compartment under the hood, where is the a/c relay on a 97 gsr?
Okay, so i found and checked the relay, it was cool, check voltage going to the relay, and its got 11.9 volts. What should i check next? thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, so i found and checked the relay, it was cool, check voltage going to the relay, and its got 11.9 volts. What should i check next? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, just because you have power on one side of the relay doesn't mean it's good. a usual relay has a power, ground and control side. verify that you have ground. on the control side i would ASSUME that the a/c switch turns on the relay (if working you should have power here).
actually, just because you have power on one side of the relay doesn't mean it's good. a usual relay has a power, ground and control side. verify that you have ground. on the control side i would ASSUME that the a/c switch turns on the relay (if working you should have power here).
There are too many items to prevent the AC from turning on its not funny, you are going to need a manual to do some of your own homework here my friend and post back what you find, that and a volt meter is all you need, will be glad to guide you once you are ready and educated a little.
Relays, usually more than one, pressure switch, up to three, thermistor and thermoswitch in evap case, main switch, blower switch, several fuses, main control unit (AC Amp), blower motor, and many grounds, fan control unit or timer unit, compressor thermo protector (IA), compressor RPM sensor (IA), WOT switch (TPS), problem with engine computer (ECU), wiring and connectors, corrosion and rodents or just plain old bad solder connections on a PCB.
Relays, usually more than one, pressure switch, up to three, thermistor and thermoswitch in evap case, main switch, blower switch, several fuses, main control unit (AC Amp), blower motor, and many grounds, fan control unit or timer unit, compressor thermo protector (IA), compressor RPM sensor (IA), WOT switch (TPS), problem with engine computer (ECU), wiring and connectors, corrosion and rodents or just plain old bad solder connections on a PCB.
I checked the relay terminal socket plug A, had 11.9 volts input going into the relay, i installed a new relay and still no clutch engagement. How do i check the pressure swith? Or what else should i check next? I know there are a whole lot of switches and wires to check but my Haynes manual is really vague.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are too many items to prevent the AC from turning on its not funny, you are going to need a manual to do some of your own homework here my friend and post back what you find, that and a volt meter is all you need, will be glad to guide you once you are ready and educated a little.
Relays, usually more than one, pressure switch, up to three, thermistor and thermoswitch in evap case, main switch, blower switch, several fuses, main control unit (AC Amp), blower motor, and many grounds, fan control unit or timer unit, compressor thermo protector (IA), compressor RPM sensor (IA), WOT switch (TPS), problem with engine computer (ECU), wiring and connectors, corrosion and rodents or just plain old bad solder connections on a PCB.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true. there are many inputs(bussed to PCM) that turn off/on a/c compressor. if any one of these are faulty, PCM will not turn on a/c compressor
Relays, usually more than one, pressure switch, up to three, thermistor and thermoswitch in evap case, main switch, blower switch, several fuses, main control unit (AC Amp), blower motor, and many grounds, fan control unit or timer unit, compressor thermo protector (IA), compressor RPM sensor (IA), WOT switch (TPS), problem with engine computer (ECU), wiring and connectors, corrosion and rodents or just plain old bad solder connections on a PCB.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true. there are many inputs(bussed to PCM) that turn off/on a/c compressor. if any one of these are faulty, PCM will not turn on a/c compressor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked the relay terminal socket plug A, had 11.9 volts input going into the relay, i installed a new relay and still no clutch engagement. How do i check the pressure swith? Or what else should i check next? I know there are a whole lot of switches and wires to check but my Haynes manual is really vague. </TD></TR></TABLE>
at this point you would have to look at the a/c compressor clutch wiring diagram. it should show you all the inputs to engage compressor clutch.
at this point you would have to look at the a/c compressor clutch wiring diagram. it should show you all the inputs to engage compressor clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Low side pressure 50 psi, high side 110 psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure that these are your pressures? 50 psi for the low side is slightly high, and 110 psi for the high side is REALLY low. a normal a/c system's pressure should be about 30-40 psi low side and about 200-300 psi high side.
are you sure that these are your pressures? 50 psi for the low side is slightly high, and 110 psi for the high side is REALLY low. a normal a/c system's pressure should be about 30-40 psi low side and about 200-300 psi high side.
Well , that was after about 30 seconds of jumping the compressor directly to the battery, maybe if i left it on longer it would have gotten to those pressures. Also, i noticed when ac went bad, i smelled smoke, or like someone was welding in my car. What sensors or switches are in the cabin that might have gone out that are related to the ac. The ac control switch works cause when i turn on the ac my rpms drop as if my ac is on, but my clutch just won't engage. Could i have a faulty ecu, should i swap ecus and check if ac works? Thanks for you help by the way
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well , that was after about 30 seconds of jumping the compressor directly to the battery, maybe if i left it on longer it would have gotten to those pressures. Also, i noticed when ac went bad, i smelled smoke, or like someone was welding in my car. What sensors or switches are in the cabin that might have gone out that are related to the ac. The ac control switch works cause when i turn on the ac my rpms drop as if my ac is on, but my clutch just won't engage. Could i have a faulty ecu, should i swap ecus and check if ac works? Thanks for you help by the way
</TD></TR></TABLE>
whoa. 30 sec. is pretty long to jump the compressor. the smoke is more than likely from you jumping the compressor clutch too long. compressor clutch is more than likely are burnt.
if you turn on your a/c switch and the rpms drop, that means that the a/c clutch in engaged and the compressor is on because of the extra load on the engine.
first, instead of slapping parts at it, you need to diagnose and isolate the problem. yes, it could be a faulty ecu but you need to verify it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>whoa. 30 sec. is pretty long to jump the compressor. the smoke is more than likely from you jumping the compressor clutch too long. compressor clutch is more than likely are burnt.
if you turn on your a/c switch and the rpms drop, that means that the a/c clutch in engaged and the compressor is on because of the extra load on the engine.
first, instead of slapping parts at it, you need to diagnose and isolate the problem. yes, it could be a faulty ecu but you need to verify it.
When i turn on the ac climate control switch to on, full blower speed RPM's drop, but the clutch doesn't engage, and cold air doesn't blow out. I was also told i can jump the compressor for about 1 minute and be okay?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i turn on the ac climate control switch to on, full blower speed RPM's drop, but the clutch doesn't engage, and cold air doesn't blow out. I was also told i can jump the compressor for about 1 minute and be okay?</TD></TR></TABLE>
blower speed rpms? i'm assuming you mean engine rpms. blower speed has nothing to do with the compressor engaging on/off
actually yes and no. you can jump the compressor that long but if your testing it you just want to see if it engages the clutch. the reason you wouldn't want to jump it for that long while testing is because if your a/c clutch clearance is too tight you can fry the clutch really quick
blower speed rpms? i'm assuming you mean engine rpms. blower speed has nothing to do with the compressor engaging on/off
actually yes and no. you can jump the compressor that long but if your testing it you just want to see if it engages the clutch. the reason you wouldn't want to jump it for that long while testing is because if your a/c clutch clearance is too tight you can fry the clutch really quick
Yes, engine rpms drop, im just saying when i turn on the ac switch, click blower speed to 4, the engine rpms drop, as if putting more load on the engine, but when i look at the clutch, its not engaged, nor is cold air coming out? Im gonna try swapping the ecu tomorrow. Thanks for your help
The ac control switch works cause when i turn on the ac my rpms drop as if my ac is on, but my clutch just won't engage. Could i have a faulty ecu, should i swap ecus and check if ac works?
The idle should go up if the computer is in control of the IAC, leaving it hot wired is fine.
You need two terminals at the relay socket to have battery power, not just one, that is a start for your problems. This is with the main switch on of course.
One person mentioned that the fan RPMs had no meaning, in a way it does not BUT the fan motor is in series with the fan switch and if the motor was OPEN then the AC would not work, so if the fan turns, you have eliminated the motor and the switch now also as a potential problem.
The idle should go up if the computer is in control of the IAC, leaving it hot wired is fine.
You need two terminals at the relay socket to have battery power, not just one, that is a start for your problems. This is with the main switch on of course.
One person mentioned that the fan RPMs had no meaning, in a way it does not BUT the fan motor is in series with the fan switch and if the motor was OPEN then the AC would not work, so if the fan turns, you have eliminated the motor and the switch now also as a potential problem.
Okay, i seen now that i should have power from 2 terminals at the relay socket at points A and B, i only have power from point A which means a short or something is not right between terminal B and the AC climate control switch right? Radiator fan turns, but Im not sure about the condensor fan motor.
Also, where does that terminal B wire (Black/yellow) lead to in the cabin, does it connect all the way to the AC climate control switch or just to the fuse box, my Haynes manual is confusing to me, as you might tell, im no electrical guru. thanks guys for your help
I was just going to pull up a wire diagram and I dont notice what year and engine you have. Please make yourself a signiture for your post and include all your cars data.


