ok i have a 95 accord lx. i want to put in a good sound system.. I already the door speakers which are 160 wats.. the rear 6x9's wich are 200wats.. i need a stereo and a woofer but i dunno wat to look for thats why i came here to see if u guys can help me out..

What else should i buy.. i heard some people use two amps one for the lows and one for the mids... im also gonna get some tweeters.. i want to buy quality stuff because i want a clean sound system.. i think i wanna go with one 12 inch woofer.. i kno ur guys are gonna ask how much i wanna spend.. cash isnt really an issue but id rather get something thats koo for a good price.. its gonna be my daily driver

 

I would definitely start with a HU.
A high-pass amp and a mono block sub amp is also a good way to go.
Adding a set of tweeters is not the way to go, instead replace the front speakers with a set of component or point source speakers.

Also keep in mind, the speaker watt rating's you give are probably peakpower, not continuous, [RMS] power, when dealing with wattage, use RMS watts and continuous power, [watts] handling ratings only.

"cash isnt really an issue " yes it is, EG; do you want to spend $200 on a HU, or $500 or maybe $2000. 94

 

$40 - 4ga wire kit
$100 - HU
$100 - 6.5" component set
$100 - 12" subwoofer
$100 - two channel amp
$150 - subwoofer amp


Is that over the budget?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnson816 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$40 - 4ga wire kit
$100 - HU
$100 - 6.5" component set
$100 - 12" subwoofer
$100 - two channel amp
$150 - subwoofer amp


Is that over the budget?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uhhh... What kind of crap equipment are you giving us prices for? eBay Refurbs or swap shop specials??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uhhh... What kind of crap equipment are you giving us prices for? eBay Refurbs or swap shop specials?? </TD></TR></TABLE>$100 crap.

 

Used equipment, budget equipment. I listed those prices to get a feel of what he had to spend on equipement. I bought a JBL BP600.1 for $80. Planet Audio amps can be had for the same. Phoenix Gold RSD component set and RSD subwoofer can be had for under $100 each. Blaupunkt VA series amps are good also. Just because you guys work at Best Buy makes you an authority figure on car audio? Give me a break.

Find me one bad review on the equipment I just mentioned. I could suggest Rainbow, Arc Audio, Sundown Audio, DLS, etc. but that would be out of his budget and would not necessarily sound better.


Modified by johnson816 at 1:19 PM 10/2/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnson816 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Used equipment, budget equipment. I listed those prices to get a feel of what he had to spend on equipement. I bought a JBL BP600.1 for $80. Planet Audio amps can be had for the same. Phoenix Gold RSD component set and RSD subwoofer can be had for under $100 each. Blaupunkt VA series amps are good also. Just because you guys work at Best Buy makes you an authority figure on car audio? Give me a break. </TD></TR></TABLE> First I do not work at Best Buy, [never have] I am an "authority" because I have been installing car audio for well over 30 years, how long have you been in car audio?

What did you expect, the OP said money was not an issue, [but it always is] but to come back and ask if the cheapest stuff you could find was within his budget, isn't helping, and will get you the response you got, and then to come back and slam us and try and compare it to brands like Arc Audio and Rainbow, will only get you slammed even harder.

"could suggest Rainbow, Arc Audio, Sundown Audio, DLS, etc. but that would be out of his budget and would not necessarily sound better" , You may be right about his budget, but about it not sounding any better, your kidding right?

As for the brands you mentioned, in their day they were pretty good, but that was some years ago, and although not at the bottom of the barrel, they come very close, "Blaupunkt VA series amps are good also" give us a break. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> First I do not work at Best Buy, [never have] I am an "authority" because I have been installing car audio for well over 30 years, how long have you been in car audio?

What did you expect, the OP said money was not an issue, [but it always is] but to come back and ask if the cheapest stuff you could find was within his budget, isn't helping, and will get you the response you got, and then to come back and slam us and try and compare it to brands like Arc Audio and Rainbow, will only get you slammed even harder.

"could suggest Rainbow, Arc Audio, Sundown Audio, DLS, etc. but that would be out of his budget and would not necessarily sound better" , You may be right about his budget, but about it not sounding any better, your kidding right?

As for the brands you mentioned, in their day they were pretty good, but that was some years ago, and although not at the bottom of the barrel, they come very close, "Blaupunkt VA series amps are good also" give us a break. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those werent the cheapest stuff I could find. If he mentioned that his speakers are 160w and 200w, what makes you think that he has a high budget?

Better equipment will guarantee better sound? It's mostly in the install but of course you know that.

Tell me how today's amps are much better than amps that were good "in their day"? I still rock an Arc 2500CXL. Also, the a/d/s amps I have must be really shitty (or close to bottom of the barrel) because theyre over 15 years old. Same thing for the Boss, Hifonics, Planet Audio amps that were designed by Zed Audio.

Yes, Blaupunkt Velocity amps are solid.

All im saying is that you can get decent stuff for cheap and not all $100 equipment is crap.

 

&lt;----- Doesn't work at Best Buy...

 

Damn, 0 for 2.

 

fcm..wats a mono block? i have a 2 channel kenwood amp that says stereo and mono. is that wat ur talking about?1

 

Mono is single channel. You can use that Kenwood for your speakers and get an additional mono block for a subwoofer.


Modified by johnson816 at 7:11 PM 10/2/2007

 

so i have a mono block now right?

 

No, you have a 2 channel but you can bridge the channels to give a single output.

 

You do not, the term mono block means a 1 channel amp, as apposed to a 2 channel amp, [stereo amp] your 2 channel amp is "bridgeable" into 1 channel, a "mixed mono" amp, [both left and right signals are amplified] or "mono" amp, [left or right signal is amplified] but it can not, [should not] be referred as a "mono block", however it will do pretty much the same think as a mono block, but not as well, on the other hand 2 mono blocks can do what a 2 channel amp can do and do it better, [everything else being equal].

What is the model of the Kenwood amp?


How would the wattage of the speakers he has have anything to do with a budget?
They could be POS with over-rated peak power stamped on the back, but then again they could be Dynaudio up front and Hertz Milli MLK2 in the rear.
I didn't say he had a high budget, the OP said "cash isnt really an issue" to which I responded"yes it is, EG; do you want to spend $200 on a HU, or $500 or maybe $2000"?, maybe I'm wrong, but when somebody says cash is not an issue, I kind of eliminate bargain basement equipment from non authorized dealers.

Tell me how today's amps are much better than amps that were good "in their day"? Is this a quiz, is there a prize? OK I'll bite, apples to apples watt for watt today's amps are smaller and more efficient, do I win?

Either you didn't read what I said or your comprehension is lacking, I said nothing about today's amps being better, what I side was, the brands you mentioned used to make pretty good stuff, however IMO they no longer do.
I also said nothing about older equipment being bad, on the contrary, for the brands you mentioned I said exactly the oposite.

Your not really trying to compare an ARC Audio 2500CLX... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...1.jpg
or a any a/d/s amp... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...1.jpg
to one of today's JBL amps... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...1.jpg
or any Blaupunkt amp... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...1.jpg

I certainly wouldn't put ARC Audio and a/d/s at the bottom of any list, new ones or old ones.

I don't care who designed it, BOSS really is at the bottom of the barrel... http://ampguts.realmofexcursio...1.jpg

So it's not the equipment, it's the install, what if it is shitty equipment and a shitty install?

I agree, properly installed inexpensive, [entry level] equipment will outperform improperly installed "higher end" equipment, but then again, properly installed higher end equipment will walk all over entry level equipment, [no matter how well the entry level stuff is installed] so why would you assume someone that spent a few bux and got better equipment would install it poorly but would do it properly if it was entry level stuff? 94

 

If people are saying peak ratings and are asking for recommendations on simple things, it almost always means they dont know much about audio so why would you assume that he might be talking about Dynaudio and Hertz? When someone says "cash isnt really an issue but id rather get something thats koo for a good price", it usually means that they dont know much and dont know how expensive things can get. You already knew that he wasnt going to spend $2000, that's why you told him, "yes it is".

The brands I mentioned still make decent stuff, not bargain basement or "crap" as you suggested but that is your opinion. I was not comparing Arc to the other brands. I recommended budget stuff because I he said he didnt want to spend much. You sure picked the ugliest design to prove your point...That is definately not a Stephan Mantz design.

This Blaupunkt amp makes me want to throw up because it's so horrendous. /sarcasm




I said "would not necessarily sound better". The stuff I mentioned is not shitty equipment. Like I said, find me a bad review for the equipment I mentioned. Again, for this situation we're not talking about high end equipment so the argument you have is a moot point.


Modified by johnson816 at 12:51 AM 10/3/2007

 

How do your speakers sound right now? What do you think it's lacking?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

On this particular amp, the ratings are

Arc Audio 2500CXL/2500XXK
2 x 270W @ 4 ohms
2 x 525W @ 2 ohms
1 x 1050W @ 4 ohms

If you connect a single 4 ohm driver to each channel, you get 270w each.
If you connect a single 2 ohm driver to each channel, you get 525w each.
If you connect a single 4 ohm driver using the (-) of the left channel and the (+) of the right channel, you are bridging the amp giving you 1050w.

 

You already knew that he wasnt going to spend $2000, that's why you told him, "yes it is". Again, you assume too much, you may think you know what the OP is thinking and what he means by what he has asked or said, but you sure as hell do not know what I was thinking.
I was not thinking he did not want to spend $2000 when I said "yes it does", unlike you that assumed it would be bargain basement stuff, I gave a price range to get an idea of what he was looking for.
So why don't we wait and see what the OP means, and what kind of budget he has.
I have wasted enough time on a no0b that gets his panties in a knot when a response of "Uhhh... What kind of crap equipment are you giving us prices for? eBay Refurbs or swap shop specials?? " to a post of eBay refurbs and swap shop specials. 94 nuf said.

 

spend as much as you can on speakers.....this makes or breaks a system unless of course something silly is going on like running speakers off deck.

For a deck.....I'd look at the Clarion DRZ line.

Amps.....I'd look at either the Arc KAR or Foose line

Speakers.....well I'm a Dyn fan myself. Hiquiphon makes a good tweeter though

If money is no object though

Brax or Genesis amps

McIntosh mx5000 deck

I've never heard them but I'd be interested to hear a Rainbow component set.....

 

ok right now i have two 12inch fosgates but the bass sounds real dirty i dunno if its the cheap box they're in it has plexi glass (spelling?) but im not satified with the highs either.. i want a louder voice and deeper bass..

i have a friend that can get everything at list price so it would be way cheaper.. tahts why i said that money wasnt an issue.. but here is wat i want some good speakers for the inside of the car.. i want something that fits like the O.E speakers since i do live in south central i dont wanna attract any attention by having speakers that are visible....also i want just one 12inch speaker because i dont want to take up too much space in the trunk... i apreciate all the input and the lil arguments on here too lol..

 

What is the make and model of the HU you have?
As mentioned, the power ratings of the speakers you have are probably peak ratings not continuous, (RMS) ratings.

Makes and models of those speakers would help in determining what you need to do.
The make and model of the amp that you are using to drive the subs and sub model number are also needed.

Not trying to be a pain, but without accurate information of what you have there is not way of knowing what you need, it may turn out all you need is an amp and a new sub box for one of the 12" subs you have.

For a good sounding system, with a good balance of high-pass/low-pass, ["highs" and "bass"] you need a good HU to start with, if you have a crappy HU, it will not matter how good the amps or speakers are, [crappy source=crappy SQ].
For good high-pass SQ you need properly installed good front speakers, [they do not have to be top of the line] a good 2way component set or point source speakers properly installed is all you need.

You do not need rear speakers at all, you definitely do not want any tweeters in the rear, they will only make it difficult, if not impossible, to get a good sound stage and proper imaging, if anything, disable the tweeters and run them off HU power, for rear fill.

The problem with your sub bass can be a number of things or a combination of things, starting with the box, no matter how good the sub(s) is, it will sound like crap if it is not in a proper box, [or a cheap, poorly constructed box.
If the subs are underpowered and you drive the amp into constant clipping "the bass sounds real dirty" the subs will sound crappy and you are doing damage to the subs VCs.
If the amp is not getting enough current, [under-sized power or ground cables, poor connections] and even if it is not underpowered for the subs, it will clip prematurely and the result is the same, crappy sub bass.
Unlike a hatch, a car with a trunk poses other problems for sub bass, including the interaction of the rear speakers, in your case 6x9s, they will work like "passive radiators", ["speakers" that make sound without being connected up to any amplification] the subs actuates them, but because they are connected to an amp that is driving them, [in your case, driven full-range by HU amp] the HU drives them full-range and the subs drive them, passively, low-pass, that makes for crappy low-pass and high-pass, besides being hard on the 6x9s.

Not as simple as some seem to think it is.
Like I said, you may only need another amp and sub box, or possibly replacing everything is a better option, maybe your problems are just install related, but without knowing what you have now, suggesting what you need is about the same as pissing into the wind. 94

 

lol..great info fcm..i decided im going to start frm scratch and get new everything.. right now i do have a crappy HU.. I used to have a sony which was real good but the problem was that it didnt have any rca connections in the back.. so i switched it out for a cheaper sony HU that did have themm..

About the cabbles running to the amp... i had a professional instal them like 3 years ago when i was running the same woofers.. im assuming that they did a good job but again i dont kno anything about car systems so i wouldnt know..

If you can help look for a good set up i'd appreciate it.. Im looking for a head unit with a **** for the volume.. if i can find a good looking HU with a **** for volume control that would be koo..For the frnt 6 1/2's i want something that is low profile.. like i stated on the previous post i want something that fits like the O.E speakers.. Right now i have pioneer speakers in the frm that are 160watts im guessing its peak wattage. the rear 6x9"s im not too sure of the brand and they r 200 watts..

 

Take your pick... http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...AV_HU can't go wrong with an Alpine HU, just pick the one that has the features you need.

For front speakers I would recommend Eclipse SP6500... http://www.eclipse-web.com/point/sp6500.html

A JL Audio 300/4 or the new 300/4v2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=437 would be a good amp to drive the fronts.
As mentioned, keep the 6x9s, disable the tweeters, wire them in series, [for an 8 ohm load] and connect them to the bridged rear channels of the amp.

You will also need to isolate the backs of the 6x9s from the sub(s), you can use Dynamat, [or the like] to cover the back of the speaker up so the pressure of the sub does not effect them.

Are you also wanting to replace the sub(s) and sub amp?
As I mentioned, you may not need to, get me the make and model numbers, and I can let you know if you need to.

As for the wiring, power for amp(s), RCAs and how it was done, I would check and see exactly how/where they are run...
RCAs should be run down center of car.
Power should be run down the side of the car the batt. is on.
All leads and cables should be as short as possible. 94

 

yea im gonna replace the sub and the amp.. and as far as disabling the 6x9's i dont even understand what ur saying lol.. do u think i will be able to do it by myself? also are the eclipse speakers gonna fit like the o.e.'S? I WANT TO BE ABLE TO PUT THE SPEAKER GRILL OVER THEM.. sorry for the caps i just noticed it

 

Yes they will fit behind stock grills, you may have to cut a hole in the back of the stock speaker housing for the Eclipse magnet, but the stock grill will work, you will even be able to use the stock speaker mounting screw holes to mount the speaker to the stock housing.
Because tweeters behind you will only mess up the sound stage and imaging, it is best to disable the tweeters in the 6x9s, it's a simple as cutting one of the leads on the capacitor, [normally mounted to the tweeter] that is used as a x-over for the tweeter. 94