Im just wanted to know if the ASR Subframe Brace work or is it just bull. could i just get away with sway bar kit?

 

work. /thread.

 

If you search for subframe tearout, you'll find numerous threads with pictures of what a stiff swaybar can do to the, particularly on EK cars, flimsy-*** subframe. There are, at this point, more threads than that where people with the ASR brace have run some significant rear bar- ITR 22mm on up to the ASR hollow 32mm- with no issues whatsoever.
It does this in part by being a beefy aluminum plate, but also by distributing the stress loads from the bar onto a far larger area of the subframe, including the LCA mounting bolt which is much more solidly built than the stock mounting location for the bar.

so no, not bull. its proven effective many times over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BIG_EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im just wanted to know if the ASR Subframe Brace work or is it just bull. could i just get away with sway bar kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have yet to see an incident of subframe tear-out on a '96-00 Civic with the A-Spec Racing brace.

I can't say the same for the Beaks kit. I've seen numerous '96-00 Civics with torn subframes while running the Beaks kit.

 

I have one on my 97 ek and love it no problems.

 

damn you guys sold me on the asr. i always wondered if anyone ever tore the subframe with the asr brace.

i was trying to find a comptech bar it's not easy though.

 

for a type r i wouldn't get it. the type r comes with stock sway bars so the subframe is pretty much reinforced.

if you need a lower strut bar you can buy it for that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by balki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would this be a good addition to a type r?</TD></TR></TABLE>
As mentioned, it's unnecessary for a Type-R. The ITR and CTR already have a heavily reinforced rear subframe from the factory to handle the stock 22mm/23mm rear anti-roll bars.

 

A friend of mine is running one and he has no problems i'm definitely looking into getting one myself.

 

I'd say the ASR or Comptech is the only way to go on the EK chassis.

 

I love my ASR brace and my 32mm sway...

 

I love my ASR brace and 22mm sway bar, made croenering that much more fun

 

Been running my ASR/itr 22mm combo for a year now with no problems. A friend of mine with a 00 coupe, ran the beaks kit/itr 22mm for 6 months with hard driving, ripped his subframe off like a piece of paper. We drilled out his old subframe and welded in a new one from another coupe. Threw the ASR/itr 22 combo on, its been great for the last year.

Beaks = puts more stress on the end points, thus ripping the subframe.

ASR = huge plate to distribute the load.

 

It is fact not fiction. If you have a smaller sway bar like a 14mm or 13mm from an integra or something you won't need it. If you are using any of the aftermarket sway bars, (19mm and up) the ASR subframe brace really helps prevent tear out. As stated before, if you search for subframe tearout, you will find how well it really works. I mean, i'm rocking one haha

 

may I ask if there are ASR copy subframe being sold?and how do you distinguish a copy with a fake one..thanks in advance

 

Only buy from autorized distributors such as weaksauce.org and jhpusa.com. There are more but i listed the main ones and i got mine from weaksauce. There were a handful of copies created by kteller i believe that look really different. If you search, you will find several threads bout this but to skip all the non sense, just buy it from one of my sponsors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d1sturb3d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">may I ask if there are ASR copy subframe being sold?and how do you distinguish a copy with a fake one..thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

it works. i have a little subframe tearout but i'm planning to pick up a brace soon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSuperSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it works. i have a little subframe tearout but i'm planning to pick up a brace soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, should get that fixed before just throwing something else ontop to cover it.

 

its really small probably like an inch big thats about it. and how would go about fixing? i heard people are replacing the whole frame and thats very costly and the other option i heard is welding it shut and drilling a hole in it again but i haven't heard many people doin this.

 

My friend and I, drilled all the spot welds on the subframe, and welded in the new on in the same location. Measure 500 times, weld once. Total project was 200 bucks. Bought the rear trunk from the junkyard for 200 bucks, and he has a welder. Body shop quoted him 2500, so we just took it upon ourselves and it been great for the last year or two.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSuperSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its really small probably like an inch big thats about it. and how would go about fixing? i heard people are replacing the whole frame and thats very costly and the other option i heard is welding it shut and drilling a hole in it again but i haven't heard many people doin this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I am a ASR dealer and I can tell you for sure they are worth the money! I run them on all are race cars!