As the the title states, what have you guys spent to get your valves adjusted, cam chain, and CCT replaced including labor charges? Thanks in advance.

*Edit- The bike is 99 CBR F4

 

My local shop charges $70/hr for labor. Last time I took the Superhawk in for both CCTs (twins have two), it was $180. So figure about 2.5 hrs of labor, on top of any parts.

 

why don't you just call some local shops and ask for an estimate?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rdblckSV650S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why don't you just call some local shops and ask for an estimate?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just bought the bike yesterday and none of the local shops are open on sundays. I am going to give them a call tomorrow but I have just been paranoid about the slight valvetrain noise, so I wanted to see what I was getting into ASAP.

 

My f4i made a lot of valvetrain noise, even after getting a new CCT. It's the loudest motor i've ever had.
If you want to have a mechanic check it out, that's fine, but there may not be a problem.

 

A few hundred dollars in labor, probably a $700 bill when its all said and done (for valve adjustment and cam chain tensioner). I doubt you need a cam chain, and if you have a stock cam chain tensioner I would swap it out for a manual tensioner (APE makes a good one). The stock tensioners on f2s and f3s are notorious for going bad causing chatter (sounds like a bunch of BBs in the motor). And I think the f4 shares the same problem. The APE part is around $50, and you can install it yourself easily.

As for valve adjustment, the dealer will charge you a fortune to disassemble your bike in order to get to the valves. If you don;t want to spend a lot, and are uncomfortable with adjusting the valves yourself, I would take off the lower fairings, gas tank, air box, radiator, ect and take the bike to the dealer and let them do the valves. This will save you a lot of $$ for labor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatboy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A few hundred dollars in labor, probably a $700 bill when its all said and done (for valve adjustment and cam chain tensioner). I doubt you need a cam chain, and if you have a stock cam chain tensioner I would swap it out for a manual tensioner (APE makes a good one). The stock tensioners on f2s and f3s are notorious for going bad causing chatter (sounds like a bunch of BBs in the motor). And I think the f4 shares the same problem. The APE part is around $50, and you can install it yourself easily.

As for valve adjustment, the dealer will charge you a fortune to disassemble your bike in order to get to the valves. If you don;t want to spend a lot, and are uncomfortable with adjusting the valves yourself, I would take off the lower fairings, gas tank, air box, radiator, ect and take the bike to the dealer and let them do the valves. This will save you a lot of $$ for labor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good info

 

If the dealer is doing the CCT, then they will be in the vicinity of the valves and can check and adjust, if needed, the valves. It won't be an extra job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatboy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock tensioners on f2s and f3s are notorious for going bad causing chatter</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was getting ~10k miles per CCT on my F3 - not too bad. I just used the OEM part.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladedad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the dealer is doing the CCT, then they will be in the vicinity of the valves and can check and adjust, if needed, the valves. It won't be an extra job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

On an F3 its a 15 minute job, dont go near the valves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On an F3 its a 15 minute job, dont go near the valves </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's only to remove the old CCT and replace with the new. That doesn't include removing the cylinder head to access the cam chain and make sure the chain didn't lose tension and jump teeth.

 

Remove the cylinder head to check the cam chain? Weird

It you pull the old tensioner out, and put the new one in and set it properly, why would the chain be at risk of jumping teeth?

 

The cam chain tensioner provides tension on the cam chain, right? Pulling the CCT off means there is no longer tension on the chain. A worn chain will be loose enough to pop off the cam gears.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I might go ahead and have them replace the chain while they are in there too. Its not too expensive and the bike has 25k on it, so it might be a good idea. I can't decide whether to go with the stock CCT or a manual one. I have hard time putting aftermarket parts in such a critical position, however if the OEM version is junk then a manual one might be my best bet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladedad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cam chain tensioner provides tension on the cam chain, right? Pulling the CCT off means there is no longer tension on the chain. A worn chain will be loose enough to pop off the cam gears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldnt it be the same as changing a timing belt on a honda while the engine is still in the car?, just use a strap or something to hold the slack up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the input guys. I think I might go ahead and have them replace the chain while they are in there too. Its not too expensive and the bike has 25k on it, so it might be a good idea. I can't decide whether to go with the stock CCT or a manual one. I have hard time putting aftermarket parts in such a critical position, however if the OEM version is junk then a manual one might be my best bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

id try the aftermarket one, just to see how much longer intervals are over the stock cct.

 

I don't think you have to pull the head to replace the chain.

The engine and cams have timing marks just like our cars do. It's just a matter of relieving tension, cutting the OE chain, attaching the new to the old, crank the engine (by hand), and install the master link after verifying the alignment marks are in the right places.

But then again, the only bike I have that has a timing chain is made by a company that makes pianos.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the OEM version is junk then a manual one might be my best bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the manual one will be junk too if you don't make adjusting it a new religion. Making it too tight or too loose will ruin your engine.

 

The method I described was just the way I read it in the service manual (not verbatim, obviously). I have heard of people simply swapping out the CCT with no adverse affects, but for me:

1) I wanted to see the internals, and
2) I was removing the PAIR system from the Superhawk.

 

if you take out the cct it will not just magically jump a tooth. it will if you turn the motor over with out new one installed but what kind of a$$ would do that. and the new cam chains are endless chains no master links. would have to remove cams and side cover. not a very had job. just make sure timing is set right.