My CTR lip CRACKED!
Anyways, yeah I let my friend use my car and he cracked my lip so he's paying for the damages on the lip. It's a minor crack, the passenger side cracked, (where the lip bolts onto the bumper it cracked on the side there)
What do you recommend I use to put it back together? Bondo? etc? Any specific steps? I'm gonna just rattle can it, like I did last time. I got this shop to mix me some paint and I just sprayed it on. (It was CLEAN, i thought it'd turn out ugly but I was wrong)
What do you recommend I use to put it back together? Bondo? etc? Any specific steps? I'm gonna just rattle can it, like I did last time. I got this shop to mix me some paint and I just sprayed it on. (It was CLEAN, i thought it'd turn out ugly but I was wrong)
It's the real deal lip. The paint didn't crack, it was the material, it cracked in the corner of the lip so basically it still bolts on, but it dangles. (It cracked partially)
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also i dunno about using fiberglass on plastic or urethane..the material of your lip is muuuuch more flexible..itll definitely fix it short term, but the problem will come back with time
There are really strong adhesive glues that could hold it together and then just buy some bondo brand fiberglass resin to finish it off. Sand it down and then spray on some primer and then rattle can it like you did before.
Maybe even put some staples in to make sure it holds.
thats what I'd do.
Maybe even put some staples in to make sure it holds.
thats what I'd do.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Yorba Linda, ca, United States of America
Too bad you are in CT...I'm repairing a friends lip right now using Fiberglass, Resin, and bondo...Its not too hard and materials are pretty inexpensive. Resin will still bond to the polyurethane lip....
Fiberglass repair works if you sand the back proper for it to stick but then the flex of plastic will just break the fiberglass off. I use repair my lip with fiberglass but I has to fiberglass the whole backside of the lip then a bit of bondo upfront to get rid of the crack line.
Now and days after owning a show bike that I stunt on. Trying keep it pretty I use this kit http://www.plastex.ca/ which is plastic repair and works if done properly.
It's all about how you prep things and follow the instructions instead of just going out there and doing it. You do learn from hands on experience on these things.
Now and days after owning a show bike that I stunt on. Trying keep it pretty I use this kit http://www.plastex.ca/ which is plastic repair and works if done properly.
It's all about how you prep things and follow the instructions instead of just going out there and doing it. You do learn from hands on experience on these things.
if the lip is fiber glass then you can just glass it backtogether. You can even brace it by doing something like countersink screwing it together with like paint sticks or something. then just plastic it up and paint it.
If the lip is plastic then heat it up to get it flexible and work it back to how you think it should pretty much look, don't leave any high spots, just push them in. You can get the material to stay by heating it, moving it, then rapidly cooling. you can keep repeating a few times until it feels ok. then bond it back together with some 3M panel bonding adhesive 2 part epoxy. You can even back it by cutting a small piece of plastic and gluing it to the backside for stregth. Once the stuff dries it is sandable, or you can just smooth it with your angle grinder. After you've done this you can just put regular old plastic on it. DO NOT sand the plastic with anything coarser than 180 grit or else with will leave the plastic feeling "furry" which will be hard to prime over with anything less than a rediculous amount of primer. And DO NOT put lightweight putty as a finishing coat over your plastic. Putty is not very flexible at all and will most likely crack shortly. Regular plastic is way more flexible than putty and easily primed over if finished in 180 grit, and you can put "honey" in it to help thin it out and eliminate pin holes.
If the lip is plastic then heat it up to get it flexible and work it back to how you think it should pretty much look, don't leave any high spots, just push them in. You can get the material to stay by heating it, moving it, then rapidly cooling. you can keep repeating a few times until it feels ok. then bond it back together with some 3M panel bonding adhesive 2 part epoxy. You can even back it by cutting a small piece of plastic and gluing it to the backside for stregth. Once the stuff dries it is sandable, or you can just smooth it with your angle grinder. After you've done this you can just put regular old plastic on it. DO NOT sand the plastic with anything coarser than 180 grit or else with will leave the plastic feeling "furry" which will be hard to prime over with anything less than a rediculous amount of primer. And DO NOT put lightweight putty as a finishing coat over your plastic. Putty is not very flexible at all and will most likely crack shortly. Regular plastic is way more flexible than putty and easily primed over if finished in 180 grit, and you can put "honey" in it to help thin it out and eliminate pin holes.
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