Timing Belt Covers...Are They Really Needed?
I Searched Through These 5 Threads...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1908944
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2093658
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2086432
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=900155
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=854528
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Gettin Fresh Engine Components For The New F (Pictured)


moving on...most know the upper timing belt cover comes off easy. but the bottom has the bolt that either is usually taken off with that funky tool --->
.. or loosened with an impact gun.
so i'm asking...is the lower timing belt cover necessary? i'm been running my car for 2 years without one and haven't had any problems. and i see <U>a lot</U> of people (mainly the H-series drivers) running without them. (showing off the cam gears)
but like i said i haven't had any problems in 2 years and thats with city, highway & state-to-state driving. so did i just luck out and not shread the belt or is it truly not needed?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1908944
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2093658
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2086432
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=900155
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=854528
-----------------
Gettin Fresh Engine Components For The New F (Pictured)


moving on...most know the upper timing belt cover comes off easy. but the bottom has the bolt that either is usually taken off with that funky tool --->
.. or loosened with an impact gun.so i'm asking...is the lower timing belt cover necessary? i'm been running my car for 2 years without one and haven't had any problems. and i see <U>a lot</U> of people (mainly the H-series drivers) running without them. (showing off the cam gears)
but like i said i haven't had any problems in 2 years and thats with city, highway & state-to-state driving. so did i just luck out and not shread the belt or is it truly not needed?
Well, you know what can happen if your timing belt breaks...right? I would do as much to protect my timing belt as I can, unless you have a spare engine lying around that you are dieing to swap out.
You can luck out and nothing happen, or cause dust / elements to get on your belt and wear it down faster than the recommended 90k miles.
You can luck out and nothing happen, or cause dust / elements to get on your belt and wear it down faster than the recommended 90k miles.
I wouldn't run my car without those timing covers. There is no telling if a rock or something can get kicked up and into the timing belt. the small hassle these covers pos when doing a timing belt/water pump job every 90k miles is more than worth it for the ease of mind knowing nothing is going to get up into my timing belt.
But if you feel lucky it's completely up to you, I just wouldn't recommend it.
But if you feel lucky it's completely up to you, I just wouldn't recommend it.
with those comments being said, while i have the engine dangling on the picker can you tell me how to use that funky tool?

does that help?
-just put the tool in the pulley.
-attach a 1/2" drive ratchet to the tool.
-slide a pipe over the end of the ratchet.
-put a 1/2" drive 19mm socket on the end of a short extension (since the engine is out of the car)
-attach a 1/2" breaker bar to the extension/socket and put the socket on the crank bolt.
-get someone to hold one side while you hold the other and loosen the bolt (standard thread, righty tighty - lefty loosy)
you may need another pipe for on the breaker bar but since you aren't loosing so much power in the long entension you may not need it. When I did mine on the engine stand I didn't need that pipe.
i doubt my g/f can be the other person holding..i can picture her flying into the wall now..but yea that helps good lookin out mayne.
HAHA, that would be a site...
if the motor is close enough to the ground you could wedge the bar with the ratchet and special tool against the ground holding everything still while only you loosen the bolt with the breaker bar and possibly cheater pipe. I've done it that way while the motor is in the car.
if the motor is close enough to the ground you could wedge the bar with the ratchet and special tool against the ground holding everything still while only you loosen the bolt with the breaker bar and possibly cheater pipe. I've done it that way while the motor is in the car.
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