Stainless Braided Brake Lines, 4g
Any suggestions on the best priced / best quality stainless lines for a 4g prelude and where to get them? Trying to update my braking hardware.
Also curious if its practical to buy stainless lines, cut them to length and add my own fittings as a budget minded upgrade? How would I go about sourcing and accomplishing this? If you think it isn't worth it, let me know.
Also curious if its practical to buy stainless lines, cut them to length and add my own fittings as a budget minded upgrade? How would I go about sourcing and accomplishing this? If you think it isn't worth it, let me know.
You're talking about brake lines here. If one fails, you're in deep dookie. I wouldn't advise making your own, unless you have experience.
As for DOT approved brake lines, if StopTech makes a set for the 4Gen, I'd recommend those. If not, look to see if Goodridge does.
As for DOT approved brake lines, if StopTech makes a set for the 4Gen, I'd recommend those. If not, look to see if Goodridge does.
I assume youve already taken care of pads/rotors?
You should really give Ernest Hemmingway credit for this:
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”
You should really give Ernest Hemmingway credit for this:
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”
It Dosent matter ^^^^^^^^^ he asked about lines.....not opinions of set ups.....hahaha not trying to sound smug either...
Goodridge makes a good set and also russell makes a descent set for 4th gens.....they run around 100 give or take.Search the web or even ebay,u will find lots of them to choose from......
Goodridge makes a good set and also russell makes a descent set for 4th gens.....they run around 100 give or take.Search the web or even ebay,u will find lots of them to choose from......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume youve already taken care of pads/rotors?
You should really give Ernest Hemmingway credit for this:
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rotors are good. Pads, a bad caliper, caliper bracket, and master cylinder will be taken care of.
As far as the Hemmingway quote, it isn't actually for certain that he actually said it but I will make sure I add a reference, Hemmingway quote or not.
You should really give Ernest Hemmingway credit for this:
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rotors are good. Pads, a bad caliper, caliper bracket, and master cylinder will be taken care of.
As far as the Hemmingway quote, it isn't actually for certain that he actually said it but I will make sure I add a reference, Hemmingway quote or not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It Dosent matter ^^^^^^^^^ he asked about lines.....not opinions of set ups.....hahaha not trying to sound smug either...
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Yah, but having the best lines in the world mean nothing without pads/rotors/calipers that are up to the task.....Funny thing is most STAINLESS LINES users don't even really USE them......They aren't doing anything for you on the street.
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Yah, but having the best lines in the world mean nothing without pads/rotors/calipers that are up to the task.....Funny thing is most STAINLESS LINES users don't even really USE them......They aren't doing anything for you on the street.
For what it's worth, I've been using stock brake lines on my track car for over a season without any issues. 
I'll have to switch over to stainless for the front when I install this brake kit, but I'll probably still use OEM lines in the rear.

I'll have to switch over to stainless for the front when I install this brake kit, but I'll probably still use OEM lines in the rear.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They aren't doing anything for you on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably more than most other brake "upgrades".
Although it's just an issue of pedal feel, which is not much in the first place.
Probably more than most other brake "upgrades".
Although it's just an issue of pedal feel, which is not much in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Probably more than most other brake "upgrades".
Although it's just an issue of pedal feel, which is not much in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm...No. If you took a Prelude with stock everything and Track Pads the braking would blow away a Prelude with stock everything and SS lines.
SS lines are there to stand up to heat and prevent line collapse as a result.....
Braking temps on the track are insane! I think we clocked 800*+ from mine.
If your car is just a street car.....leave the lines alone!
Billy, youre crazy!
^^^ Hes an example of using stock lines with tracks pads being the way to go.
I assume we're not talking about TRACK USe braking so I think we're done here.
Probably more than most other brake "upgrades".
Although it's just an issue of pedal feel, which is not much in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm...No. If you took a Prelude with stock everything and Track Pads the braking would blow away a Prelude with stock everything and SS lines.
SS lines are there to stand up to heat and prevent line collapse as a result.....
Braking temps on the track are insane! I think we clocked 800*+ from mine.
If your car is just a street car.....leave the lines alone!
Billy, youre crazy!

^^^ Hes an example of using stock lines with tracks pads being the way to go.
I assume we're not talking about TRACK USe braking so I think we're done here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They aren't doing anything for you on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now Im lost......
For the street, I would get better pads/rotors before I would get SS lines. SS lines won't hurt on the street, but chances are you'll never take advantage of them.
If youre TRACKING it.....you should have everything. Stock Prelude Calipers are some of the best out there......
For the street, I would get better pads/rotors before I would get SS lines. SS lines won't hurt on the street, but chances are you'll never take advantage of them.
If youre TRACKING it.....you should have everything. Stock Prelude Calipers are some of the best out there......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now Im lost......</TD></TR></TABLE>
You say SS lines won't do anything for a street car. I say they won't do much since at most it's an issue of "feel", but that is probably more than anything else.
Unless buying dusty squeaky pads that mostly operate outside of the temp range of normal driving for the street is an upgrade.
You say SS lines won't do anything for a street car. I say they won't do much since at most it's an issue of "feel", but that is probably more than anything else.
Unless buying dusty squeaky pads that mostly operate outside of the temp range of normal driving for the street is an upgrade.
I'd really like to try a blind A-B-A test. I'd be VERY surprised if someone could tell a back-to-back difference between any brand stainless brake lines and new OEM rubber lines, with the same fluid and pads (everything brand new, just for the comparison).
Anyone want to donate the parts and car (I can't drive my Prelude on the street). I'd be willing to help with the labor. We'd also need a few volunteers to keep the comparo "honest."
Anyone want to donate the parts and car (I can't drive my Prelude on the street). I'd be willing to help with the labor. We'd also need a few volunteers to keep the comparo "honest."
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd really like to try a blind A-B-A test. I'd be VERY surprised if someone could tell a back-to-back difference between any brand stainless brake likes and new OEM rubber lines, with the same fluid and pads (everything brand new, just for the comparison).
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Agreed.....after 15-20min on the track is where the SS lines would start to shine IMHO.
Bottom line is I think SS lines are a waste of money on the street. I have them on my daily driver because its also a weekend warrior.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Agreed.....after 15-20min on the track is where the SS lines would start to shine IMHO.
Bottom line is I think SS lines are a waste of money on the street. I have them on my daily driver because its also a weekend warrior.
Well, the car is not a street car. It's a rally-x / auto-x / soon to be track car. This car sees A LOT of hard braking, especially when I'm using the brake and throttle to get the car around a loose corner.
I didn't mean for this to turn into a discussion of whether or not I actually needed Stainless lines. The car has a lot of milage on it and I want to improve pedal feel because in my experience, feel is pretty damn important. I'm not looking to buy them for the "bling" factor either. If I was worried about how my car looked I wouldn't be racing it in the dirt and driving over softball sized rocks.
Regardless, thanks for offering up some proven trustworthy brands. I will be looking into them.
I didn't mean for this to turn into a discussion of whether or not I actually needed Stainless lines. The car has a lot of milage on it and I want to improve pedal feel because in my experience, feel is pretty damn important. I'm not looking to buy them for the "bling" factor either. If I was worried about how my car looked I wouldn't be racing it in the dirt and driving over softball sized rocks.
Regardless, thanks for offering up some proven trustworthy brands. I will be looking into them.
I don't even know if it makes a different with only 20 minutes of track time. The fluid doesn't get 800F - 1,000F like the rotors do. It would be interesting to try during a track weekend, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rally_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't mean for this to turn into a discussion of whether or not I actually needed Stainless lines. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Welcome to Honda-Tech!
StopTech and Goodridge. The only two I'd consider. StopTech would be the preferred of the two, as they cover the stainless braid which helps keep the braid free of debris.
EDIT: Add Fastbrakes to the list too.
Modified by 117 at 10:11 AM 10/3/2007
Welcome to Honda-Tech!

StopTech and Goodridge. The only two I'd consider. StopTech would be the preferred of the two, as they cover the stainless braid which helps keep the braid free of debris.
EDIT: Add Fastbrakes to the list too.
Modified by 117 at 10:11 AM 10/3/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't even know if it makes a different with only 20 minutes of track time. The fluid doesn't get 800F - 1,000F like the rotors do. It would be interesting to try during a track weekend, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just a guess.....I have never used OEM lines on the track.
If its about pedal feel, the stainless line setup would require less pressure to bite.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rally_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the car is not a street car. It's a rally-x / auto-x / soon to be track car. This car sees A LOT of hard braking, especially when I'm using the brake and throttle to get the car around a loose corner.
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Ok.....SS lines for you then!
$100 and you can't go wrong if it helps you have more fun!
when I had my INSANE track day I was doing 40-45min sessions and my braking stayed the same the whole time.
sounds like someone needs a FAT sway bar to get rid of understeer!
Modified by ::NirVTEC:: at 6:24 PM 9/28/2007
Just a guess.....I have never used OEM lines on the track.

If its about pedal feel, the stainless line setup would require less pressure to bite.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rally_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the car is not a street car. It's a rally-x / auto-x / soon to be track car. This car sees A LOT of hard braking, especially when I'm using the brake and throttle to get the car around a loose corner.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok.....SS lines for you then!
$100 and you can't go wrong if it helps you have more fun!
when I had my INSANE track day I was doing 40-45min sessions and my braking stayed the same the whole time.
sounds like someone needs a FAT sway bar to get rid of understeer!
Modified by ::NirVTEC:: at 6:24 PM 9/28/2007
QUOTE]sounds like someone needs a FAT sway bar to get rid of understeer![/QUOTE]
haha yea that's another issue currently under investigation. We will be disconnecting the front sway bar at the next event to get an idea of how it will react.
haha yea that's another issue currently under investigation. We will be disconnecting the front sway bar at the next event to get an idea of how it will react.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rally_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">QUOTE]
haha yea that's another issue currently under investigation. We will be disconnecting the front sway bar at the next event to get an idea of how it will react.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely give that a try.....haven't personally done it though.
I run a Progress 28mm in the middle setting for my tail-happy dorifto track days.
Billy, are you running brake cooling ducts?
haha yea that's another issue currently under investigation. We will be disconnecting the front sway bar at the next event to get an idea of how it will react.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely give that a try.....haven't personally done it though.
I run a Progress 28mm in the middle setting for my tail-happy dorifto track days.
Billy, are you running brake cooling ducts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems like SS brake lines could be a safety advantage as well when you're driving on dirt and rocks and stuff that flies around like that...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome point....I think it would apply for debris on the roadcourse too!
Awesome point....I think it would apply for debris on the roadcourse too!


