PLEASE HELP!!! Engine/Tranny issues
i know it aint a civic, but they should be somewhat similar i hope...
ok. here's the story.
drivin down the road with a friend. chilling. tried to put car in D3 while takin a turn to stop it from shiftin gears... but i put it in D2 by mistake and didnt realize. drove down the road no problem... hit about 80 mph (my pass said) and i was supposedly at 6800-7000 rpms. my cluster is dim so i didnt realize. anyways. after about 10 min of drivin.. the D4 light in the cluster started blinkin. thought nothing. stopped to get food, drove again, light starts blinking constantly after a few minutes, and then the check engine light comes on.
im thinkin i fawked something up bad! so i test the car. drove it easy, gear by gear, and its shiftin fine. if im at 4th gear, and press the pedal a lil, it will shift down and go. if i press the pedal alot, it will shift and go harder. so its seems the tranny is ok. it isnt hesitating.
but the question is, why the check engine light, and why is the D4 light in the cluster blinking? even if i drive it in 3rd gear... the D4 light still blinks. Reset the ECU twice and both times it erased the CEL and stopped the blinking, but it all came back after a few minutes of driving.
please none of the "its an auto" bullshit.. i need help. and u guys are great for that here on H-T.
please help. i need this car on a daily basis. dont wanna take it to work and get stranded half way there.
please. thank you!
ok. here's the story.
drivin down the road with a friend. chilling. tried to put car in D3 while takin a turn to stop it from shiftin gears... but i put it in D2 by mistake and didnt realize. drove down the road no problem... hit about 80 mph (my pass said) and i was supposedly at 6800-7000 rpms. my cluster is dim so i didnt realize. anyways. after about 10 min of drivin.. the D4 light in the cluster started blinkin. thought nothing. stopped to get food, drove again, light starts blinking constantly after a few minutes, and then the check engine light comes on.
im thinkin i fawked something up bad! so i test the car. drove it easy, gear by gear, and its shiftin fine. if im at 4th gear, and press the pedal a lil, it will shift down and go. if i press the pedal alot, it will shift and go harder. so its seems the tranny is ok. it isnt hesitating.
but the question is, why the check engine light, and why is the D4 light in the cluster blinking? even if i drive it in 3rd gear... the D4 light still blinks. Reset the ECU twice and both times it erased the CEL and stopped the blinking, but it all came back after a few minutes of driving.
please none of the "its an auto" bullshit.. i need help. and u guys are great for that here on H-T.
please help. i need this car on a daily basis. dont wanna take it to work and get stranded half way there.
please. thank you!
Drive it till the light comes on and go to Autozone and get the codes for us for free and then we can help you better please. Make sure they understand that you may have both a tranny and engine code, I do not know what kind of scanner they use.
it could be the transmission solenoid(located on the front of the transmission) there are 2 one on top of another and they will throw a d4 light
checked the service manual. either the VSS is fucked... or the wiring itself is. going to the junk yard tomorrow to try to get a used one... otherwise, i'll have to ebay it.
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driving 80mph in second gear. tached at 7k. dashboard too dim for you to see that your an idiot... yet the passenger you were trying to impress was able to see it. rofl.
i wouldnt think that the wiring has an idiot clause built in to stop working because the driver is incapable of driving the car. go ahead and replace the sensor. while your at it.... smell ur trani fluid and make sure it isnt burned up. you might want to change out your trani fluid and filter whether it is or isnt burned up. sounds like your powertrain needs any advantage it can have to hold up to the 16 yr old thats behind the wheel.
i wouldnt think that the wiring has an idiot clause built in to stop working because the driver is incapable of driving the car. go ahead and replace the sensor. while your at it.... smell ur trani fluid and make sure it isnt burned up. you might want to change out your trani fluid and filter whether it is or isnt burned up. sounds like your powertrain needs any advantage it can have to hold up to the 16 yr old thats behind the wheel.
You never mentioned if the speedo quit working, well, you are going to replace it anyways, this may clear up both codes, change the part, reset codes and let us know what happens on the next test drive.
um... ur a dumbass. i explained the story so those that wanna help know what happened. not for ppl like u to talk ****. also, i wasnt trying to impress anyone. and third, im not 16 duck.
for those that tried to help:
put in new speed sensor and still the problems persist. tried a new TCM and problems still persist. the next thing left i believe is the gear shaft which is what turns inside the tranny. besides the codes, the speedo and odometer aint working. anyone else have anything helpful?
for those that tried to help:
put in new speed sensor and still the problems persist. tried a new TCM and problems still persist. the next thing left i believe is the gear shaft which is what turns inside the tranny. besides the codes, the speedo and odometer aint working. anyone else have anything helpful?
you need to use a HONDA scanner to get the codes.
once you get the codes post them up
car stuck in 2nd gear = limp home mode
fuel cutoff on F22 used in those cars (B1 abd B2 is 6500 rpm)
2nd gear gets you at most 75
Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 1:21 AM 10/16/2007
once you get the codes post them up
car stuck in 2nd gear = limp home mode
fuel cutoff on F22 used in those cars (B1 abd B2 is 6500 rpm)
2nd gear gets you at most 75
Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 1:21 AM 10/16/2007
The Code 17 from the Check Engine Light, coupled with Code 4 from the flashing D4 is generally the VSS.
Here is a link:
http://techauto.tripod.com/
Try a different VSS, since the one from the junkyard may not be working properly. Still sounds like the VSS.
Here is a link:
http://techauto.tripod.com/
Try a different VSS, since the one from the junkyard may not be working properly. Still sounds like the VSS.
i tried a brand new VSS. still codes. and i tried the new VSS with a diff TCM, and still codes. took it to get check, but the mechanic didnt know the issue, so he wanted to charged me 2 hrs labor to check it. expletive that, i can use that money to fix the issue.
dude stop getting pissed off at people. you can't "accidently" knock is down into d2 withouth pressing in the button and then NOT HEAR THE ENGINE REV for 10 minutes. You were dicking around. Okay, no one cares.
now, have you taken the neg off the battery, and hold the key in the ignition for like 20 seconds and reconnect the neg. it will reset the computers. see if the codes come back.
now, have you taken the neg off the battery, and hold the key in the ignition for like 20 seconds and reconnect the neg. it will reset the computers. see if the codes come back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude stop getting pissed off at people. you can't "accidently" knock is down into d2 withouth pressing in the button and then NOT HEAR THE ENGINE REV for 10 minutes. You were dicking around. Okay, no one cares.
now, have you taken the neg off the battery, and hold the key in the ignition for like 20 seconds and reconnect the neg. it will reset the computers. see if the codes come back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe you have to take out the backup fuse for about five minutes to completely clear the codes from the ECU
now, have you taken the neg off the battery, and hold the key in the ignition for like 20 seconds and reconnect the neg. it will reset the computers. see if the codes come back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe you have to take out the backup fuse for about five minutes to completely clear the codes from the ECU
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