i ordered this for a 92 civic hatchback.. and i cant find anything along my firewall that resembles this... heres a pic

 

btw i'm doing a rear disc conversion someone please help.

 

there should be a number on there

70/30
40/40
40/30
etc.

 

Dude; that doesn't even look like its from a civic; maybe like an accord or something.

 

N1.. there is no numbers on i checked... its blank, if its not from an EG im going to have to talk to JHOT.

 

What you have is nothing from a Civic / Integra. What you need is something similar to what N1 was saying except their are no /'s in the number. For instance 4040 not 40/40. Here is a picture from a forsale thread here on HT https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349589 and here is a pic.



Good luck to you sir.

 

What ever that thing is. It's not for a civic 92-95
92-95 non-abs

92-95 abs


The one you want look exactly like the one on you car.

 

i hope you kept your receipt.

 

thanks for the replies and another question, why are the LCA on this conversion "ITR style" the worker there said they get everything from Japan so are these JDM rear LCA? because they look a lot different compared to USDM 92-95 hatchback Si' rear disc brakes.

let me grab a pic....






Modified by akunamatta at 10:27 AM 9/25/2007

 

In Japan the civic get those type of lca.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaiba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In Japan the civic get those type of lca.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool so no problems there, thanks to everyone who helped now i need to talk to Jhot

 

I wouldnt worry too much about the prop valve or shipping it back to JHot. Just a waste of money and time. They are readily available at any junkyard thats got hondas for about $10-$15. Also note this; As long as you have a Civic Bracket that the Prop valve bolts too, you can use a 4040 from a 90-93 Integra (which are all over junkyards). EZ swap for an upgrade part for about 1/2 hour of labor.

If there arent any junkyards in Utah, I can sell you one for $40 shipped ready to go. But you'd be paying the extra cash for my time to swap the parts and junkyard trip to hunt the parts down. So do it yourself and save the cash.

 

are you serious? i didnt pay for this unknown prop valve man i paid for an EG 4040.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akunamatta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you serious? i didnt pay for this unknown prop valve man i paid for an EG 4040.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea its not your fault, ive never seen that type before... i would call them and see what they can do that sucks though waiting for parts ftl.

 

That indeed is not a prop valve.....

Don't fret, we will get it straight.

-Gabe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JHOT_Imports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That indeed is not a prop valve.....

Don't fret, we will get it straight.

-Gabe </TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds good man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What you need is something similar to what N1 was saying except their are no /'s in the number. For instance 4040 not 40/40. Here is a picture from a forsale thread here on HT </TD></TR></TABLE>

is there really a difference whether it has a / or not. it doesn't make a difference, as long as the numbers are right.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EgSalad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> EZ swap for an upgrade part for about 1/2 hour of labor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, that's if everything unbolts easy. if the nuts at the lines are seized up, it'll be a nightmare. trust me i should know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, that's if everything unbolts easy. if the nuts at the lines are seized up, it'll be a nightmare. trust me i should know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you end up replacing the hard lines?... or what did you do to make it easier, heat? i am already letting the connections soak in oil so i hope that helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akunamatta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you end up replacing the hard lines?... or what did you do to make it easier, heat? i am already letting the connections soak in oil so i hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i damaged the passenger rear and driver front hardlines. i tried to bend some line i picked up at the part store and even followed these instructions: http://www.joesfalcon.com/gentip2/gentip2.html (good link), but i wasn't skilled in the art of brake line bending. so my only option then was to buy new lines.

the rear went for $125 and the front went for $10 (dealer item of coarse). the front wasn't that bad to replace, the rear was a bitch! took me 7 hours, and that included me dropping half my front crossmember, steering rack, and gas tank. the hardest part was making sure the new line stayed free of contamination and damage.

but now that i have scared you, swapping out the prop valve is well worth it.

 

lol sounds yea you scared me a little bit, that would suck!! im going to hope it goes smooth though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akunamatta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol sounds yea you scared me a little bit, that would suck!! im going to hope it goes smooth though </TD></TR></TABLE>

i couldn't tell you how much of a difference it made since i went ahead and replaced the front and rear brakes, M/C, booster, prop valve, and brake hoses with steel braided.

i do know that more fluid does and is supposed to go the rear due to them being discs, so there is a reason behind it, so it wasn't done in vain.

 

When working with brake line nut. Make sure you using a "flare nut wrench". It aluminun so it shouldn't rust.

 

that's a "prop valve" for an abs setup. it has that instead of the prop valve and they use the abs module to control flow to the front/rears.

those are itr lcas, so you got the rear disc setup off an itr w/abs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCejcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's a "prop valve" for an abs setup. it has that instead of the prop valve and they use the abs module to control flow to the front/rears.

those are itr lcas, so you got the rear disc setup off an itr w/abs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

will they still work? i also see an orange plug behind the caliper area is that for ABS too? and i have a 92 civic without ABS if that matters.

EDIT: you can see the orange plug at the vary bottom of the pic, so will this still work or no?





Modified by akunamatta at 6:49 PM 9/26/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCejcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's a "prop valve" for an abs setup. it has that instead of the prop valve and they use the abs module to control flow to the front/rears.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not for a civic 92-95 at least.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCejcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those are itr lcas, so you got the rear disc setup off an itr w/abs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Like i said the 92-95 in Japan use those type of lca. Even the 88 civic/crx in the states use those same type. Its most likely came out from the SIRII model. That would explain the ABS wire.

Just remove the ABS sensor. It won't effect anything. Here is a diagram of the ABS for 94-95 civic model

Notice the gears on the hub. Only ABS hub have that.


The only reason i see why Honda use those cast iron type in the US is to save money.