choosing rates. . .
okay i've been trying to figure out what kind of rates i should run.
i've searched numberous times and more often than not, everyone has yellow gc's with 8k/10k rates.
i have a blox 21mm rear sway and tie bar205/40/16 rt-615s (soon to be all around, just in the fronts right now, rs2's in the rear ftl).
my choices right now are tein super streets or f2t2's.
i was thinking about 9k/11k spring rates, but i'm thinking they may be too stiff.
this is for a 94 civic ex btw.
any help that can point me in the right direction would be great! thanks guys!
i've searched numberous times and more often than not, everyone has yellow gc's with 8k/10k rates.
i have a blox 21mm rear sway and tie bar205/40/16 rt-615s (soon to be all around, just in the fronts right now, rs2's in the rear ftl).
my choices right now are tein super streets or f2t2's.
i was thinking about 9k/11k spring rates, but i'm thinking they may be too stiff.
this is for a 94 civic ex btw.
any help that can point me in the right direction would be great! thanks guys!
I have a set of PIC Apex coilovers and my rates are 10Kf/8Kr and I think they're fine... some people think its too stiff for DD but I think they're good... if anything I think id lower my rear spring rate but I like the way my car rides.
The only way you will be able to determine whether a setup is "too stiff" or not is to hitch a ride in a friend's Civic or Integra with known spring rates somewhere close to what you're considering - that way you can get a feel for how a given setup will ride and handle, and then you can figure how a setup with slightly softer or stiffer rates will feel through interpolation.
Nobody can tell you over the internet whether a given setup will be too stiff or not stiff enough for your personal preference.
For example, I drove my CRX track car daily for 3 years on rust belt roads with 500 lbs-in F/600 lbs-in R (very close to 9k/11k) and Koni 8041-Sports set 1/16-turn from maximum rebound force, and never once did I wish for something softer or stiffer. However, most other people who have driven or ridden in the car on the street absolutely cannot stand how stiff it is. It's all down to what you can tolerate and what you're looking for in a suspension.
Nobody can tell you over the internet whether a given setup will be too stiff or not stiff enough for your personal preference.
For example, I drove my CRX track car daily for 3 years on rust belt roads with 500 lbs-in F/600 lbs-in R (very close to 9k/11k) and Koni 8041-Sports set 1/16-turn from maximum rebound force, and never once did I wish for something softer or stiffer. However, most other people who have driven or ridden in the car on the street absolutely cannot stand how stiff it is. It's all down to what you can tolerate and what you're looking for in a suspension.
i thought there was a whole theory in calculating the total weight in your car in conjuction with any suspension / chassis mod (sway bar etc) to determine the ideal spring rate?
what's the benefit of having the fronts stiffer than the rears? rears stiffer than the fronts?
what's the benefit of having the fronts stiffer than the rears? rears stiffer than the fronts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr x civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought there was a whole theory in calculating the total weight in your car in conjuction with any suspension / chassis mod (sway bar etc) to determine the ideal spring rate?
what's the benefit of having the fronts stiffer than the rears? rears stiffer than the fronts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
its safer to run stiffer spring rates up front than in the rear. having stiffer rear spring rates will make your FWD honda oversteer. unless your a good driver with basic track/auto-x experience then i wouldn't recommend it.
what's the benefit of having the fronts stiffer than the rears? rears stiffer than the fronts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
its safer to run stiffer spring rates up front than in the rear. having stiffer rear spring rates will make your FWD honda oversteer. unless your a good driver with basic track/auto-x experience then i wouldn't recommend it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr x civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought there was a whole theory in calculating the total weight in your car in conjuction with any suspension / chassis mod (sway bar etc) to determine the ideal spring rate?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is part of the equation. Nobody is saying that it's not.
But the point is that what is ideal for one person might not be ideal for anyone else. You'll need to find out what your comfort zone is, and what your plans for the car are. eg. high rates work well on the track, but nobody in their right minds would daily drive on 1000lbs/in springs in the rear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is part of the equation. Nobody is saying that it's not.
But the point is that what is ideal for one person might not be ideal for anyone else. You'll need to find out what your comfort zone is, and what your plans for the car are. eg. high rates work well on the track, but nobody in their right minds would daily drive on 1000lbs/in springs in the rear.
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