Is the skunk2 stage 2 cams and the skunk2 pro series stage 2 the same thing???Also i'm planning on building the head...so you guys recommend any valves,springs,retainers...etc. from anyone or do you guys think that i would be fine with doin the stage 2 cams and upgrading everything skunk 2 also...o and that goes for the cams also if you guys recommend one company or the other...thanks for the help!!!

 

Help!

 

ever thought about checking their website?

 

i did go to there site and the only thing i see is the pro series...other places that i have looked have the pro series and then jus stage 2 so didn't know if there was a difference...also what do you guys think about the other things that was mentioned earlier?

Thanks

 

open your eyes.

 

tuner series are good street opposed to the pro series..if you go pro series you are sacrficing your idle and will need a good tune and have them degreed!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20beast978 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tuner series are good street opposed to the pro series..if you go pro series you are sacrficing your idle and will need a good tune and have them degreed!</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you know your sacrificing your idle? Have you tuned them to know?

Your recommendation of tuner series is good.

 

it depends on what pro series cam u go with. not all of the pro series will cause u to have a funky idle but the only reason people say u wont idle is because the pro series cams have larger primary lobes which would give u a lumpy idle. if u tune it ull be fine.

 

im running pro 2's as we speak and my idle is pretty rough even after a 14.7 a/f...if you go with pro 1's i dont believe your idle will be compromised

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20beast978 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you go with pro 1's i dont believe your idle will be compromised</TD></TR></TABLE>

My experience has been opposite of that. The Pro2 are easier to get to idle. The thing about the Pro1's is you have to go to about 20 to 21 degrees of timing.

 

im runin pro2s at 21 timin at idle.runs like stock motor for the most part

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NABeastRR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im runin pro2s at 21 timin at idle.runs like stock motor for the most part </TD></TR></TABLE>

for real experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NABeastRR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im runin pro2s at 21 timin at idle.runs like stock motor for the most part </TD></TR></TABLE>

and it should.

none of them will really screw with your idle to much unless u have a shitty tuner and never degreed the cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it depends on what pro series cam u go with. not all of the pro series will cause u to have a funky idle but the only reason people say u wont idle is because the pro series cams have larger primary lobes which would give u a lumpy idle. if u tune it ull be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont believe lift has as much role play in the idle as duration does. and how much different are the primaries compared to stock? When they list cam specs, its usually only of the secondary lobe (vtec)......

and afr has little effect on getting a big cam to idle. My crowers (modified primaries) needed 4* advance in order to keep it from falling on its face.