okay, so the problem i was having went away after flushing the fluid. now a similar, yet different problem has came up... from about 60mph, i get on the brakes, they grab like normal. normal stopping distance, except the brake peddle keeps moving towards the floor. not lighting quick or anything, but definatly at a steady pace. i know it shouldnt be like this. my pops suggested its the brake master cylinder on its way down the drain. im planning on getting it diagnosed tommorrow at some brake shop, i would just like to have a bit of an idea of whats going on before i go in.

any ideas?

 

W/ the car off, can you pump the brake pedal and it holds pressure?

 

yes

 

same w/me, too... car off, pedal holds pressure

 

94accord: do you have an idea?

 

The sympombs of a fucked mc is good normal pressure about half way down then just as your foot begins to slow, the pedal falls.

 

Mine does it too when its REALLY hot outside. Like 90+, and im in traffic. However, at VIR I NEVER had brake fade or any problems w/ my brakes, however it was a cool 50 all weekend @ VIR. I was told that if your pedal holds pressude w/ the car off your master cylinder is fine. What brake fluid did you use again? I have Valvoline Synthetic in mine, and it still does it when its hot like stated above.

 

Maybe your MC is going too. How long has this been happening?

 

Just started this summer when it got hot. If its below 90 it doesn't do it. Only in stop and go traffic when it is 90+ outside.

 

Could be the first signs of failure. Obviously, if it didnt happen before, and is happening now, something is screwy. I bet you dont want it to fail on you the morning of an event right? Might want to look into changing it.

 

Symptooms of failed master cylinder: brake pedal will occasionally sink to floor on hot days, but brakes are still mostly usable. You can't see any leakage or damage to the M/C.
Replace your M/C and with good fluid and pads your brake pedal will not sink more than 1 or 2 inches after repeated tripple digit full-on stops.

 

yeah, well im here in the desert... its 90+ at 10pm! ive never had any problems during or after an autocross event either. and that was with my old filthy fluid. now im using motul rbf600.

 

My MC died out of the blue. It was not close to usuable and I had drive around at 15mph all the time because I would not be able to stop at anything faster.

 

Eh, it hasn't been hot at all here, especially when I finished bleeding my brakes in a nice, cool garage. After I replaced the calipers and bled the brakes, the brake pedal travels a couple inches further than normal when braking, almost no pressure at all, unless the car is off.

 

This is what causes failure. The filth eats the seals and eventually they fail.
My brake master cyl failed a couple years ago, it was a scary time. One week the brakes were fine, the next I had to pump the pedal like crazy to stop the car. I dont know if it help pedal pressure with the car off though.

 

okay! i just ordered me a new brake m/c from http://www.manhonda.com (manchester honda). i hope they send it right away. good price too! about 84 bux shipped. thanks for all the help guys, ill definatly update you as to weather or not this fixes it. although, from what you all are explaining, id be suprised if it were anything else.

 

Guess i might as well and go ahead and order one as well, that and a fuel pump.

 

Hrm, when i was inquiring about a M/C at the parts store the other day, they had a differ model for cars w/ rear disc brakes, rear drum brakes, or if the car has ABS or not. That site lists the same one for all makes/models.

 

yeah, i noticed that too. when you fill out the ordering info, they have you give them your exact vehicle information. in their words "to ensure you get the correct part." so im guessing thats how they determine which m/c to send me. it better be right!

 

I have bought a bunch of chit from them and it all fit and it all still works.

 

Cool deal, I just thought it was odd, because the price for the M/C for rear drums no ABS and the one for rear discs w/ ABS was VERY different at the parts store. I believe the 1st one was like $90, the latter $240.

 

Man, owning a high mileage car gets expensive real quick. I just replaced my clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, now i have to replace my Master Cylinder. Went and got a fuel filter, i need to get a new clutch (170+k miles on the STOCK clutch w/ LOTS of racing on it). *sigh*

 

either get rid of it quick or your in trouble,

 

Just replaced tie rod, wheel bearing, brakes, need new power window regulator. Boo whoo!

 

I've needed a power windor regulator for about 2yrs now, just never got one.
My rear main seal is busted. I don't want to fix this, since i am planning on doing a motorswap this winter.

I wish i could sell this car, but it would be WAY to big of a hassle, besides someone has to show everyone that Accords CAN be competitive. 4DoorH22 can attest to how well i did @ VIR w/ my el-cheapo susp.