Modified by SoyMilk at 6:53 PM 11/26/2007

 

any work done to the head?ported?

 

Id say that stock intake manifold is holding you back...
Remember that intake came on a 1.6 that was rated 160hp at the crank STOCK.
Your well over that!
Slap a ITR manifold on there and see what happens!
The tune is a good one?
either way,thats not too bad of #''s.
What kinda dyno?

 

head is just all the stuff i listed like cams,,valvetrain,gears no ported.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id say that stock intake manifold is holding you back...
Remember that intake came on a 1.6 that was rated 160hp at the crank STOCK.
Your well over that!
Slap a ITR manifold on there and see what happens!
The tune is a good one?
either way,thats not too bad of #''s.
What kinda dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea maybe tune is one of the reason..
Intake manifold might be the other reason...
Dynomite? i forgot not dynojet though.

 

the numbers are not that bad. if u pick up a better header u can see +10whp gains. look into AN-R style header. they make good power. DC header is hold n back your power

 

I thinks those numbers look pretty good for that setup. I'd try a different ex. manifold( long tube, larger primaries) Search and you'll see that the dc header restricts alot of power mid to top end over some of the high end header manufacturers.(rmf,smsp,dtr). You don't have to spend big money( a $1000 or more)to get a good header. Mild steel and coated will do just fine.

 

i just finished a freinds setup that is pretty close to yours except it was a type r.we made 207whp 140tq on91 oct.What are your cam gear settings at with those pro 2's and did you degree the cams when you put this motor together?With that setup you should have no problems making 210whp.I say upgrade intake manifold, header and tb and go back to dyno.

 

itr manifold
itr throttle body or bigger
long tube header like(ssr,smsp,)
more tuning..

 

Thats about right for your setup.

Stock heads rarely make over 200whp around here.

Get a better header, i happen to have one for sale, PM me about it.

Get an intake manifold (Skunk2, ITR, Blox, AEBS)

 

Go with the performer x intake manifold and a 68mm throttle body, that should put you over 200 whp.

 

bigger manifold (victor x, itr, aebs, blox, skunk), bigger TB 68+mm. And for sure bigger header (smsp, an-r, hytech, RMF) for sure will get you over 200+ hp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM JEFFREY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">itr manifold
itr throttle body or bigger
long tube header like(ssr,smsp,)
more tuning..</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is all you need sir.

 

Everything below is good.
b16a2 head
skunk2 stg2 cams
skunk2 valve springs/retainers
stock valves
b20 block
CP 11.5 comp pistons...
eagle rods...
all that new stuff ARP rods bolts, new timing belt new oil pump etc etc...
370cc injectors
p28 ecu chipped with crome...
3" CAI


Everything below is holding you back or restricting power.
2.5 piping
DC JDM 4-1 Headers
stock b16 intake manifold
stock b16 throttle body

 

thx alot guys!!

well I get the idea now thxx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Everything below is holding you back or restricting power.
2.5 piping

</TD></TR></TABLE>

is the 2.5 piping to small? what should I get instead


well thx alot guys again.

 

and what do you guys think of the tri-y Hytech replica headers? and any feedback on AEBS IM vs Sk2 IM vs Victor X and Sk2 vs BDL throttle bodies.. I am trying not to lose to much of the torq and good good up top

 

how is a 2.5" exhaust holding him back? i would love to hear this.
a 2.5" cat back is perfect for ur street setup.

if the hytech replica is a true replica with a 2.5" collector than i dont see why they wouldnt perform well.

in my opinion u need a new intake mani, header, and an throttle body.
i would get a skunk2 pro mani or something like it and maybe at the largest a 68mm throttle body and make sure u get the throttle body port matched to the intake mani.

ur using the tuner series cams from skunk 2 correct?

 

I'd def. focus on the IM an type-r should get you about an 8-11hp gain throughout the rev range. I think if it was atoss up between a better header and a tb, I'd go header all day. The TB say a 64.5mm will only net you about 2-3hp throughout the rpm range. Just my .02 And I may be new to this forum, but noobs know a thing or two also . Also how solid is that tune?
Note: the B16 IM will probably make more power(than the type-r) at a more useable rpm range..say 4k-7500 with the type-r making more power up top around 7600-8500. It's a bit of a trade off. Anyone want to chime in on this?


Modified by advangs at 2:20 PM 9/21/2007

 

type R one over the aftermarket ones? hmm ..

and what do you mean how solid is the tune.. how long was the tune? like 1 hour

 

In my opinion get the VictorX manifold,It performs great for a 2.0L ,Swap out that header for a RMF,Pro-Fab,Hytech,or some thing like that and match port your trottlebody to the manifold,and retune. What bore are ur sleeves..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is a 2.5" exhaust holding him back? i would love to hear this.
a 2.5" cat back is perfect for ur street setup.

if the hytech replica is a true replica with a 2.5" collector than i dont see why they wouldnt perform well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dyno them 2.5" to 3.0" back to back then you'll see the difference. A 2.5" collector is good for the street and 3.0" exhaust will make the motor perform better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you dyno them 2.5" to 3.0" back to back then you'll see the difference. A 2.5" collector is good for the street and 3.0" exhaust will make the motor perform better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have any actual proof of this? the last time i check 3 inch piping for n/a was only needed on k series motors because the good flowing head from the factory...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everything below is good.
b16a2 head
skunk2 stg2 cams
skunk2 valve springs/retainers
stock valves
b20 block
CP 11.5 comp pistons...
eagle rods...
all that new stuff ARP rods bolts, new timing belt new oil pump etc etc...
370cc injectors
p28 ecu chipped with crome...
3" CAI


Everything below is holding you back or restricting power.
2.5 piping
DC JDM 4-1 Headers
stock b16 intake manifold
stock b16 throttle body

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what he said.

 

you want 210 whp, and if your on a budget, i'd just get a decent header, try finding one used, a good header-tech, pro-fab, high-end, yes I know these aren't the top names like dtr, smsp, hytech w/ the anti-reversion chambers, header and retune, if ur on a budget, try finding a type r throttle body with type r manifold, seen those on honda-tech for like 250 or less for both manifold n tb, then send ur tb out to maxbore.

then more fine tuning, u'll hit 210

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20beast978 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do you have any actual proof of this? the last time i check 3 inch piping for n/a was only needed on k series motors because the good flowing head from the factory...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That information is not mine to give out.

The k head is not the reason 3.0" exhaust is very effective. 2 Liter engine volume is the reason.

 

a factory k series head flows better than a ported b....and i got a b20vtec with 85mm sleeves and its doing just fine with the 2.5 exhaust!