here is the deal.. on my prev crx i had a stock block d16a6 motor and pieced turbo kit with a t3t4 turbo running 15 psi.. daily driver. i was using z dyne gold secu and 450cc injectors... car ran great for months.. i took it to the track one day and ran a 12.7.. car ran great , i drove it home like normal and the next day i started it and it was throwin a code 9 or somethin i forget.. something to do with a sensor inside the distributor... so my friend gave me a spare distributor and i put it on.. went around the block to test and behold .. a huge chunk blew out of the block.. so i figured ok maybe too much boost so i changed the motor and ran it again the same day.. and that motor blows the exact same way.. hole through 2 cylinders in the block.. so i couldnt figure it out and i built a 3rd motor and checked everything and all seemed working right and i even put the boost down to 5 psi to make sure and on a semi full throttle pull at 5 psi that 3rd block blew to bits.. so i got disgusted and gave away the whole car and all.. and now i bought another crx and im gonna run basically the same setup using the same zdyne ecu and injectors... and i really dont want this to happen again.. ive decided it had to be either a bad distributor or the ecu isnt working right.. i just wish i knew which... it was throwing no codes either ... im just wondering if timing was not retarding or what?? i listened to all 4 injectors at idle and they were all clicking away like normal.. so somethin wasnt right under boost and i dont know what.. i hope not the ecu.. im driving on that ecu right now in my na crx and its running great but i dont know if there is something not working right in it under boost which is unlikely i think... but in this crx ill have a wide band right in front of me and if say the ecu isnt retarding timing or something will the wideband read lean or what?? im goin to shoot for around 11.5 or so full throttle which should work..

 

anyone

 

egt will show timing differences.
the wide band doesnt show timing differences.

 

if you had used the wideband to begin with you probably couldve saved yourself a lot of time, money, headache and aggrivation. The fact that your kept blowing your motors to pieces shouldve told you that your were detonating.

 

Wow man....what the hell are you thinking? You blew three motors like that...damn.

Dude, number one, you can't tell me these things are blowing and your getting no indication of any detonation or hesitation. Are you running initially off of a pre-programmed basemap or what?

Best thing I can tell you, based on what I'm reading, is get your car running again, take some of that money you have building all these motors and drive your car OUT OF BOOST to a person able to reliably tune your stuff. Blowing blocks to pieces on five lbs, even from a big *** turbo is insanity, and shows just gross negligence.

 

What kind of timing are you running? Have you even checked to make sure the base timing is correct???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">egt will show timing differences.
the wide band doesnt show timing differences. </TD></TR></TABLE>he is right egt will show timing diff

 

well...to be completely technical... your afr's are affected by your ignition timing. If you run more advance you'll have leaner afr's. less ignition advance...richer afr's. (think more time to burn...less time to burn)

in this guys case he needs to get his car tuned.

 

the tune was fine.. i tuned it and it ran great for months daily driver... nothing about the tune changed when this all started happening.. the only change was the distributor which leads me to believe it must have been bad and not letting timing retard or something.. base timing i had at 16* ..... and there was no sign of detonation whatsoever.. it went from fine to a big blown block instantly.. ill just watch the wideband closely this time on my first run and make sure AF stays right ..

 

everything in this thread sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

if you dont want to blow this motor, take your car to a dyno. your obviously doing something very very wrong, and your wideband is not going to show you anything about your ignition timing.


lets say you have a solid and safe 11.0 afr........how are you going to know that you dont have 15 degree's too much ignition advance? are you just going to wait for the rods to fall out of the block and say oops that was too much?

 

nothings wrong with my tune..the tune is fine.. i drove for months on it with no problems.. even ran a 12.7 and it was fine.. this all started when i changed the distributor.. someone at a dyno isnt gonna do anything diff than i can do myself... zdyne doesnt have data loggin either so there is no point.. im gonna try my new setup but with a new distributor . .

 

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RTErnie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well...to be completely technical... your afr's are affected by your ignition timing. If you run more advance you'll have leaner afr's. less ignition advance...richer afr's. (think more time to burn...less time to burn)

in this guys case he needs to get his car tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, this isn't really true. You have to have super fucked up timing for combustion to occur more or less completely. Basically, if you spark, the fuel will burn.

 

If the dizzy wasn't synched when you did the dyno then you need to put it to that same "off synch" so you get those same ignition values. Bad part is you can't know that.....that's why you synch it. Reason #2 why I always check timing before a dyno run.

 

what do u mean by not in synch? i set timing to 16* every time i put a new motor in.. i wish there was a gauge i could hook up to watch ignition timing during driving.. but i guess thats not an option


Modified by 97grnrs at 10:11 AM 9/21/2007

 

the more i think about it i think it was cause of the distributor.. after the track my car was sputtering a bit and threw a code 9.. cyl position sensor.. so i got a spare one from a friend but i had to put my ignitor and coil and wiring in it.. it may be poss something was not right with that dist after i put it on.. it was not throwing a code but maybe something in it was out of wack and not letting timing retard or timing was really advanced or somthing.. i set it at 16* with the timing light but i dunno..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RTErnie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well...to be completely technical... your afr's are affected by your ignition timing. If you run more advance you'll have leaner afr's. less ignition advance...richer afr's. (think more time to burn...less time to burn)

in this guys case he needs to get his car tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what? you run less timing during spool, a leaner a/f to spool the turbo up. richen it out up top to keep egts inline, and run timing to maintain tq. you tune for power, not for a curve.