Rallying Spring Rates _ 95 Prelude SE
I have a 95 Prelude SE that I am rally-xing in the New England Region SCCA. The car is gutted. The only modification I've made other than tires is Bilstein HD's all around. I find it beneficial to get the car a little side ways in some corners and with the stock springs it is a bit difficult to accomplish, even with left foot braking. Unless I'm running bald tires in the rear, understeer is a problem. It was suggested to me that I double my stock spring rates. Should I go a little stiffer in the rear? I was just wondering if anyone has rally-xed a prelude or could make a suggestion for spring rates based on auto-x experience that would allow me to achieve more neutral to oversteer type handling?
Typically "stiffer" in the rear can create a tendency for oversteer.
I have ZERO experience in rally, but maybe you can just add a stiffer/bigger roll bar?
Would stiffer springs mess up your ability to soak up bumps etc. etc. ??
I read somewhere that a lot of the good in a rally suspension is in the dampers. Basically soft (well softer than road racing) springs and a really good damper to absorb the bumps.
I have ZERO experience in rally, but maybe you can just add a stiffer/bigger roll bar?
Would stiffer springs mess up your ability to soak up bumps etc. etc. ??
I read somewhere that a lot of the good in a rally suspension is in the dampers. Basically soft (well softer than road racing) springs and a really good damper to absorb the bumps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rally_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 95 Prelude SE that I am rally-xing in the New England Region SCCA. The car is gutted. The only modification I've made other than tires is Bilstein HD's all around. I find it beneficial to get the car a little side ways in some corners and with the stock springs it is a bit difficult to accomplish, even with left foot braking. Unless I'm running bald tires in the rear, understeer is a problem. It was suggested to me that I double my stock spring rates. Should I go a little stiffer in the rear? I was just wondering if anyone has rally-xed a prelude or could make a suggestion for spring rates based on auto-x experience that would allow me to achieve more neutral to oversteer type handling? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure what the motion ratios are on the Preludes so have to speak in relative terms. You do want stiffer spring rates, but not double--Perhaps 50%. You may want to go about 30% stiffer in front, 60% in the rear.
Try disconnecting the front sway bar, and perhaps the rear as well. You'll get better overall mechanical grip without the swaybars.
Rally tires will help if you aren't already on them, and aren't in a stock class.
An LSD may help as well.
The main problem is that you're in a front-wheel drive, nose heavy car on a loose surface. You're going to be struggling with understeer pretty much no matter what you do; The trick is how you manage it.
Driving Tips to minimize understeer on loose surfaces:
1) Try going slower into the turns, get a better setup on corner entry, smooth corner and get on the power early. You'll understeer less and you'll be much faster overall.
2) Left Foot Brake. Most of the time on a rallycross you'll probably be in second, and probably wont' be shifting much. Ideal left foot braking scenario--it takes practice though to get it right.
3) Scandinavian Flick. Doesn't have to be as extreme as what the real Scandinavians do, but basically if you're going into a right hander, give it a little left hand flick before you turn right. The weight transfer will help get the job done.
4) Last ditch effort--hand brake. If you're still understeering, or its a really tight corner, a little bit of handbrake can go a long ways--although really you can do the same thing with LFB too. The thing is you have to set up for it and time it right in order for it to be useful. It only helps if you're already starting your turn and just need some help to get the car around. If you're straight plowing its not going to help at all.
Cheers.
-k
I'm not sure what the motion ratios are on the Preludes so have to speak in relative terms. You do want stiffer spring rates, but not double--Perhaps 50%. You may want to go about 30% stiffer in front, 60% in the rear.
Try disconnecting the front sway bar, and perhaps the rear as well. You'll get better overall mechanical grip without the swaybars.
Rally tires will help if you aren't already on them, and aren't in a stock class.
An LSD may help as well.
The main problem is that you're in a front-wheel drive, nose heavy car on a loose surface. You're going to be struggling with understeer pretty much no matter what you do; The trick is how you manage it.
Driving Tips to minimize understeer on loose surfaces:
1) Try going slower into the turns, get a better setup on corner entry, smooth corner and get on the power early. You'll understeer less and you'll be much faster overall.
2) Left Foot Brake. Most of the time on a rallycross you'll probably be in second, and probably wont' be shifting much. Ideal left foot braking scenario--it takes practice though to get it right.
3) Scandinavian Flick. Doesn't have to be as extreme as what the real Scandinavians do, but basically if you're going into a right hander, give it a little left hand flick before you turn right. The weight transfer will help get the job done.
4) Last ditch effort--hand brake. If you're still understeering, or its a really tight corner, a little bit of handbrake can go a long ways--although really you can do the same thing with LFB too. The thing is you have to set up for it and time it right in order for it to be useful. It only helps if you're already starting your turn and just need some help to get the car around. If you're straight plowing its not going to help at all.
Cheers.
-k
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to try disconnecting the front sway bar for a couple runs at the next race. I will be on new tires and new brakes so regardless of how the disconnection affects the handling, I will have a good baseline to work from. I understand that most of turning good times in rally (or any racing) is more in the driving than the car and I appreciate the tips!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



