throwing codes what codes are they?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: chesterfield, virginia, united states
throwing codes what codes are they?
my buddy has a 90 civic hatchback with a b18b1 he just put in, and it is throwing code 4 and 6. what are those codes? also if he tries to put the pedal to the floor it bogs terribly and wants to cut off, but if he barely gives it gas it does fine. what can this be can anyone help?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,227
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Re: throwing codes what codes are they? (bertsb18hatch)
Code 4 - Crank Angle Sensor
Top sensor in the dist. and is used for fuel control and misfire detection.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will start heating the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up, to a 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
Code 6 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Helps determine the Pulse Width of the injectors at start-up. When this sensor starts acting-up, the engine will get hard to start, on "warm/hot starts". The wax pellet inside the sensor has gotton lazy. Sending bogus signals to the ECU, causing it to flood the engine.
When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the IAT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. When full warmed should read .5-.6 volts. You can use a resistor with a 330 ohm 1/2 watt spec, or one from Radio Shack part# 271-1113. Start the engine and let it warm up, then kill the engine. Put the resistor in the wire connector on the harness. Start the engine, if problem goes away then replace the sensor. Use this only for temporay testing, it will cause other performance issues. Meaning the ECU will think the engine is always warmed up, when it's not.
This sensor is also known to cause hot and cold starting problems.
Temp F Volts
0 4.70
10 4.50
20 4.29
30 4.10
40 3.86
50 3.61
60 3.35
70 3.08
80 2.81
90 2.50
100 2.26
When the engine is hot, the sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Flooding occurs, due too a improper injector pulse width. Unplug the sensor if you need to start the car in a hurry. The ECU will throw a code and go into limp mode, however you will be able to drive it.
Top sensor in the dist. and is used for fuel control and misfire detection.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will start heating the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up, to a 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
Code 6 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Helps determine the Pulse Width of the injectors at start-up. When this sensor starts acting-up, the engine will get hard to start, on "warm/hot starts". The wax pellet inside the sensor has gotton lazy. Sending bogus signals to the ECU, causing it to flood the engine.
When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the IAT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. When full warmed should read .5-.6 volts. You can use a resistor with a 330 ohm 1/2 watt spec, or one from Radio Shack part# 271-1113. Start the engine and let it warm up, then kill the engine. Put the resistor in the wire connector on the harness. Start the engine, if problem goes away then replace the sensor. Use this only for temporay testing, it will cause other performance issues. Meaning the ECU will think the engine is always warmed up, when it's not.
This sensor is also known to cause hot and cold starting problems.
Temp F Volts
0 4.70
10 4.50
20 4.29
30 4.10
40 3.86
50 3.61
60 3.35
70 3.08
80 2.81
90 2.50
100 2.26
When the engine is hot, the sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Flooding occurs, due too a improper injector pulse width. Unplug the sensor if you need to start the car in a hurry. The ECU will throw a code and go into limp mode, however you will be able to drive it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post