hyrdo coversion
has anybody ever thought about making their onw hydro coversion like the inovative one with the master cylinder i just want some input i tried to search but came up with nothing what i was thinking is take a hyfro mastercylinder out of a hydro car and fabbing up the bracket i will post pics im going to make it up this saturday night and i will take pics of the out come and the fab up along the whole time let me know if you tguy think this will work is is worth the time....
I will be doing this as well, maybe if we keep contributing to this thread we can find someone that will stamp/cut out the metal pieces required for welding our own. I have the M/C from a teg and a basic idea about the relationship between the cable and the M/C to work the ratio out (cable to m/c 1.5-1?) all we need are some sources to cut the metal to size and bolt lengths etc. May be even design some templates to post on the net to trace and paste and cut it out with a jig saw and metal blade. I can mig or tig so putting together would be no problem
Also, I would like to use something other than the long *** clutch cable I have now. Wes Vann was saying in another thread maybe the JDM cable as it is a lot shorter and we could hide the assembly behind the engine on the rear crossmember
Also, I would like to use something other than the long *** clutch cable I have now. Wes Vann was saying in another thread maybe the JDM cable as it is a lot shorter and we could hide the assembly behind the engine on the rear crossmember
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Where the wild things are in, NY, United States of America
Oddly enough, i've been looking at this for quite some time, just using an aftermarket master cylinder (wilwood to be precise).
I have a spare cable laying around, might try to figure out whats going on with how to fasten that without the adjuster securely. Next is to figure what the cable travel is from top to bottom of the pedal movement. then, just make lever with an offset fulcrum to compensate for the long travel of the clutch cable ( most wilwood cylinders are 1.5" rod travel at most ). as far as attaching the cable, I have a few ideas on the board....
I have a spare cable laying around, might try to figure out whats going on with how to fasten that without the adjuster securely. Next is to figure what the cable travel is from top to bottom of the pedal movement. then, just make lever with an offset fulcrum to compensate for the long travel of the clutch cable ( most wilwood cylinders are 1.5" rod travel at most ). as far as attaching the cable, I have a few ideas on the board....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oddly enough, i've been looking at this for quite some time, just using an aftermarket master cylinder (wilwood to be precise).
I have a spare cable laying around, might try to figure out whats going on with how to fasten that without the adjuster securely. Next is to figure what the cable travel is from top to bottom of the pedal movement. then, just make lever with an offset fulcrum to compensate for the long travel of the clutch cable ( most wilwood cylinders are 1.5" rod travel at most ). as far as attaching the cable, I have a few ideas on the board....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hasport has already done exactly what you're talking about.
I have a spare cable laying around, might try to figure out whats going on with how to fasten that without the adjuster securely. Next is to figure what the cable travel is from top to bottom of the pedal movement. then, just make lever with an offset fulcrum to compensate for the long travel of the clutch cable ( most wilwood cylinders are 1.5" rod travel at most ). as far as attaching the cable, I have a few ideas on the board....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hasport has already done exactly what you're talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by njn63 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hasport has already done exactly what you're talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that Hasport one is Junk. my friend has it and it always needs adjusting, and it sucks when you speed shift
Hasport has already done exactly what you're talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that Hasport one is Junk. my friend has it and it always needs adjusting, and it sucks when you speed shift
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG_H2B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that Hasport one is Junk. my friend has it and it always needs adjusting, and it sucks when you speed shift</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a link for that?
that Hasport one is Junk. my friend has it and it always needs adjusting, and it sucks when you speed shift</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a link for that?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and why pay hasport for something i can make myself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because it's a lot easier to copy an existing product than come up with a whole new one. I was only suggesting it as something to look at.
I have no idea how good it is but i havn't heard many complaints about it. Did your friend use a new cable EG_H2B?
Because it's a lot easier to copy an existing product than come up with a whole new one. I was only suggesting it as something to look at.
I have no idea how good it is but i havn't heard many complaints about it. Did your friend use a new cable EG_H2B?
Are you guys talking about trying to make a cable car work with a hydro tranny? or to make a cable/tranny car into hydro? if its the later i have to wonder why? I have a heavy duty clutch in my crx and the pedal is still super easy to push in. man the clutch masters stage 3 6 puck i had in my SHO was harder then a dump truck clutch to use and that was with the good throw out bearing and fork bushings, for that hydro woulda been nice.
Because some of us have a lot of money tied up into a hydro tranny and like me I want to keep it and put it in a crx with an H2B setup.
But I don't want to run a cable into a cable/hydro conversion. I would rather keep the master cylinder.
Plus there is a badass master cylinder that applies more pressure and its a waste to give all that money up for a new tranny and cable.
That is why I want to do it.
But I don't want to run a cable into a cable/hydro conversion. I would rather keep the master cylinder.
Plus there is a badass master cylinder that applies more pressure and its a waste to give all that money up for a new tranny and cable.
That is why I want to do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted91crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you guys talking about trying to make a cable car work with a hydro tranny? or to make a cable/tranny car into hydro? if its the later i have to wonder why? I have a heavy duty clutch in my crx and the pedal is still super easy to push in. man the clutch masters stage 3 6 puck i had in my SHO was harder then a dump truck clutch to use and that was with the good throw out bearing and fork bushings, for that hydro woulda been nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car is extremely hard to push in the clutch so much so that it makes it unpleasant to drive the car, and I have a stock type r clutch. I am either going to convert to cable actuating a hydraulic M/C->slave or put a YS1 in there to make the car more enjoyable to drive.
My car is extremely hard to push in the clutch so much so that it makes it unpleasant to drive the car, and I have a stock type r clutch. I am either going to convert to cable actuating a hydraulic M/C->slave or put a YS1 in there to make the car more enjoyable to drive.
super Chicken, You just described my last car, but that was how that clutch was supposed to be, yours sounds like it is not supposed to be that hard, maybe there is a problem some where along the line that is making it harder then it should be? I mean a stock type R clutch shouldnt feel like that right?
I have a obd1 hydro zc tranny/motor that I'm going to swap, but don't have the tools to fab correctly so I just bought a 89 si cable tranny $50 can't beat that with a stick.
I just picked up the new D-sport mag and on Page 20 Innovative mounts has a cable-to-hydro conversion but it also has a master cylinder attached. You can get 5/8" OEM or 3/4" Racer MC.
Uses factory slave cylinder and says that this unit mounts onto support in front of radiator.
So I guess the cable runs into this then converting it to hydraulic pressure which then engages the clutch.
Sounds like an alternative to Hasport but I would really like to run the master cylinder up by the pedal and eliminate a cable altogether.
This sounds like now instead of a cable or MC/SC problems you have all 3.
I don't know but just letting everyone that was interested know.
Uses factory slave cylinder and says that this unit mounts onto support in front of radiator.
So I guess the cable runs into this then converting it to hydraulic pressure which then engages the clutch.
Sounds like an alternative to Hasport but I would really like to run the master cylinder up by the pedal and eliminate a cable altogether.
This sounds like now instead of a cable or MC/SC problems you have all 3.
I don't know but just letting everyone that was interested know.
Slightly off-topic, but has anyone had success with simply replacing the stock cable (which I believe is nylon and tends to stretch over time/when placed under severe stress) with a metal cable?
I saw a cheap Autozone piece a while back and the cable was metal which would probably need to be greased more often, but I highly doubt it'd stretch.
I saw a cheap Autozone piece a while back and the cable was metal which would probably need to be greased more often, but I highly doubt it'd stretch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shininef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the Innovative one is the way to go. I used it on a all motor B20 set up and it worked great.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes but at $250 its a bit steep don't you think? Its only some sheet metal and a $30 M/C stuck together all we would need is some design specs and a mig welder and any monkey (me) can slap it together. If someone has one and can take some detailed pics (with maybe a ruler held up next to it)I can draw it up in Feature CAM and spit out some drawings and off we go.
Yes but at $250 its a bit steep don't you think? Its only some sheet metal and a $30 M/C stuck together all we would need is some design specs and a mig welder and any monkey (me) can slap it together. If someone has one and can take some detailed pics (with maybe a ruler held up next to it)I can draw it up in Feature CAM and spit out some drawings and off we go.
doesn't fit the M/C on the firewall on LHD unless you cut out the shock tower then it looks kinda funky and a lot of work......
Best bet is to find a mechanical link outside the firewall just to the side of the shock tower
Best bet is to find a mechanical link outside the firewall just to the side of the shock tower
i was at my friends shop years ago and a red crx came in that this old guy... no offense to wes, but anyway he had purchased a brand new in the crate type r tranny and had made his own cable to hydro conversion. it wasn't as clean as the innovative piece but it looked cool and i was jealous. he had designed it himself and made it in his garage and it was awesome and worked very well. his mounted to the top of the trans and the cable went the same way it does from stock, but where it bolts to the bracket on the trans there was this unit that converted to hydro.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Where the wild things are in, NY, United States of America
I'm interested in experimenting and taking a LHD cable and figuring out how to shorten it so that innovative piece or a one-off could fit in a more reasonable location (I like by the flat area by the drivers side motor mount) instead of down by the rad or other odd places i've seen them. hmmmm...


