02 sensor $400
I have a 1996 civic Hx and I need a primary o2 sensor but it costs over $400 at oriellys. Does anyone have an used one or know where I could get one. My car runs rich, I have black sud on my rear bumper, and my check engine lights on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Otherguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">junk yard homie</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you can get the damn thing off. Bring a big-*** crescent wrench and some PB blaster/kroil
If you can get the damn thing off. Bring a big-*** crescent wrench and some PB blaster/kroil
Your o2 is so expensive because its wideband
NEVER buy bosch
http://www.sparkplugs.com
it wont be cheap, but its wont be $400
NEVER buy bosch
http://www.sparkplugs.com
it wont be cheap, but its wont be $400
Ebay's the cheapest so far.
I have the o2 sensor off.
Im debating on whether or not I should sell the car without fixing the problem.
I wish I knew the proper resistance and which wires to put it on to trick the computer.
But the car would probaly get way better gas mileage if it were fixed.
Why does every say not to use bosch with hondas?
I have the o2 sensor off.
Im debating on whether or not I should sell the car without fixing the problem.
I wish I knew the proper resistance and which wires to put it on to trick the computer.
But the car would probaly get way better gas mileage if it were fixed.
Why does every say not to use bosch with hondas?
If you're just gonna sell the car, go ahead and use bosch. bosch sensors are traditionaly crap.
You won't be able to fool the computure though, it looks for switching voltage.
You won't be able to fool the computure though, it looks for switching voltage.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Otherguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">junk yard homie</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had an hx too, the reason is because its a 5 wire o2 sensor. an o2 fix will not help you. that is one of the reasons your car gets great gas mileage. they are expensive but worth it if you want your car to run right. its not like the secondary you can fool.
expletive all that get a vice and a tourch and heat up the tip.. grab a voltmeter and hook it up to wich ever set of wires gives you some voltage... these o2s work off of heat youll get a reading and youll clean it at the same time, as well as save your self money.. even if it doesnt work its worth a try...... but i know it does now if you do that and dont get ANY reading what soever then you might need a new one but if you get a reading you should be fine, even if you put it back in and it still throws a cel do it again for longer you need to get it RED hot
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95_acc0rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">expletive all that get a vice and a tourch and heat up the tip.. grab a voltmeter and hook it up to wich ever set of wires gives you some voltage... these o2s work off of heat youll get a reading and youll clean it at the same time, as well as save your self money.. even if it doesnt work its worth a try...... but i know it does now if you do that and dont get ANY reading what soever then you might need a new one but if you get a reading you should be fine, even if you put it back in and it still throws a cel do it again for longer you need to get it RED hot </TD></TR></TABLE>
wha-wha-what?
O2s do not work off heat, they produce a small amount of voltage based on the oxygen content in the air.
by heating it up with a torch you're causing the element to jump to operational range and maybe produce a small amount of voltage. All though it would be the same as having it in the exhaust of the car. Which would be a much easier way to test it, leave it installed rather than doing what you said. (and safer as to not over heat the element)
This idea may work for a normal four wire O2, but not for a L1H1 (model for this wideband) it requires a controller to produce the reference voltage offset on the center pin of the O2 sensor for it to function. (O2 in a wideband = three wires, two signal one reference)
OP: Archidictus made you one heck of an offer for one, jump on it. you're not going to find one for less than $100 anywhere.
ebay is typically the cheapest way to get them if not on here. there is one going for 125 but it's got 5 days left, and a buy now for $169+8 for a new one. (search L1H1)
both are NGK sensors, which is the only thing I'd use on a honda, especially a HX or VX. (same O2)
Modified by Relic1 at 6:01 PM 9/13/2007
wha-wha-what?
O2s do not work off heat, they produce a small amount of voltage based on the oxygen content in the air.
by heating it up with a torch you're causing the element to jump to operational range and maybe produce a small amount of voltage. All though it would be the same as having it in the exhaust of the car. Which would be a much easier way to test it, leave it installed rather than doing what you said. (and safer as to not over heat the element)
This idea may work for a normal four wire O2, but not for a L1H1 (model for this wideband) it requires a controller to produce the reference voltage offset on the center pin of the O2 sensor for it to function. (O2 in a wideband = three wires, two signal one reference)
OP: Archidictus made you one heck of an offer for one, jump on it. you're not going to find one for less than $100 anywhere.
ebay is typically the cheapest way to get them if not on here. there is one going for 125 but it's got 5 days left, and a buy now for $169+8 for a new one. (search L1H1)
both are NGK sensors, which is the only thing I'd use on a honda, especially a HX or VX. (same O2)
Modified by Relic1 at 6:01 PM 9/13/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by howfastcanigo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That looks right?
Are you sure it works?
Do you know why it was removed from the previous engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It worked without throwing a code on the vehicle I pulled it from. I took it from a manifold that was being removed for a header/catalytic converter (kid was having me build him a mini-me).
If you'd rather get a different one, I won't be insulted - confused, maybe, but not insulted
If you want it, feel free to PM me and we'll talk. If you can't PM, just send me an email at Archidictus@hotmail.com with a subject I'll recognize.
Are you sure it works?
Do you know why it was removed from the previous engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It worked without throwing a code on the vehicle I pulled it from. I took it from a manifold that was being removed for a header/catalytic converter (kid was having me build him a mini-me).
If you'd rather get a different one, I won't be insulted - confused, maybe, but not insulted

If you want it, feel free to PM me and we'll talk. If you can't PM, just send me an email at Archidictus@hotmail.com with a subject I'll recognize.
i meant they make voltage via heat.. it wouldent be the same as having it in the exhaust being thats where carbon is, yeah its getting heat but its not getting cleaned. i guess if you wanna take the safest route just buy the one for how ever much there sayin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by howfastcanigo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU HAVE PAYPAL</TD></TR></TABLE>
PM me your info and we'll talk...my Paypal isn't linked to my screen name.
PM me your info and we'll talk...my Paypal isn't linked to my screen name.
i got paypal and a brand new Bosch O2 sensor... email me at ep1dem1c@comcast.net



