Now I'm very new to this whole "turning" thing, been a dragracer since i've been into cars and never really had ambitions of road racing. That all changed when I went to HypeRfest at summit point raceway in WV the past 2 years. Both years after the event I had this urge to build a decent honda challenge car but really never went after it. I am now starting to poke at the idea and felt I could gain some insight from HT HC people on what exactly im looking at here.

I've been looking over all the rules on http://www.nasaproracing.com/r...e.pdf and I have come to the conclusion I'd want to race in the "H2" class. I've decided upon doing either a civic or integra as I seem to stumble upon cheap shells quite often.

So my ?s would be whats a good estimate of how much it would cost to build one of these cars? It doesnt have to be built to destroy everyone.....just to be competitive and have some fun.

If you dont mind would you post up some of your H2 car setups? Not trying to steal your ideas.......just trying to get an idea of whats ahead of me.

How exactly do you all go about increasing the weight of your vehicles? I read in the rules about this but i just wanted to see how you guys were doing it.

Is it worthwhile to corner balance the car?

At events what is the average cost of racing?

I'm sure ill have a few more ?s later on but thats really it for now......if there is already a post of car setups please point me to it.

Ill take any advice/help you can give me, thanks.

 

for h2 this would be my break down


Chassi 1000
saftey 4000 (includes cage, seat, fire system, kill switch, window net ect)
motor 2000 depends on what you want to run b16a can be had for 2000 or a b20 which is cheaper
suspension 3500 (dampers, camber, sway bars, springs, and replacement)
throw in another 1000 for rims and tires.

I would suggest buying an already built race car, if you are on a budget, or even if you aren't and this is your first time around. You could find a built race car for 6000 to 10,000, and there is always a lot of work to be done.


weekend cost-

300 entry fee
150-200 fuel to get to the track
50 fuel for the race car
150? hotel
75 food and drinks


thats a rough idea, it is pretty expensive to race

 

I'm not racing, but my car is basically H2 legal.

Setup:
Caged EG hatch roller - $1000 after parting things out and redoing some things with the cage
B20 engine - $700 shipped
GSR transmission - $600
Suspension - $500
Brakes (ITR front, GSR rear) - dunno
Swaybars - dunno
Seats - $1300 with mounts
Harnesses - $300
Wheels - $450
Tires - ongoing, $100-250 for a set used

I don't have any fire stuff (suit, system, etc.), and I'm not quite up to competitive driving speed for H2 laptimes currently (a few seconds off the pace I'd say, depending on track). A LOT of that pricing is really cheap, as I got some great deals and undoubtedly forgot the prices of things (like a nice header, exhaust, Hondata, etc.).

Everyone will say this too: The cost of the car is the least of your worries; the cost of a weekend is typically ~$800 or more (sometimes less if you're really on the cheap), plus the cost of whatever breaks. You should also be able to walk away from totalling the car without going bankrupt. You can crash, and insurance won't cover it. Buying prebuilt, while not as fun usually, is DEFINITELY the way to go. My95SlvrBlt is selling a close-to-legal track car (needs a cage, few other things) for ~$7000 I think.

Corner balancing - there are lots of guys who have cars that handle just fine without it (myself included).

Weight - read the H2 rules VERY carefully. You shouldn't have to ADD any weight; if you do, there's probably something else illegal on the car. I don't think there's too much more I could do to lighten my car up, and I'm still ~30lbs over the minimum.

 

Ever think about buying a pre-built one? Many people sell their race cars with a logbook + a history of times (so you know roughly what the car should be able to do at such-and-such track) and a bunch of spare parts for much cheaper than what it would cost to build one.

Great example is this car: http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=15046
Although it's H4, and I see you want to run H2.

 

don't build. find a good used race car. you're gonna need min. of about $700 a weekend when you just factor in basic wear and tear and entry fee and gas. if you race one weekend a month that's gonna be majority of where you $$ is going to... don't forget that's after tax $$ too, unless you have a biz you can write off (smart move!)...

i recommend track whoring in DE's as much as you can first... get lot of seat time in. no rush to race w2w. you can acquire majority of car control skills in DE although there is no true substitute for w2w... DE is a lot cheaper than w2w.


Modified by parislohan at 7:12 PM 9/12/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weekend cost-
300 entry fee
150-200 fuel to get to the track
50 fuel for the race car
150? hotel
75 food and drinks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't forget the incremental cost for tires, brake pads, brake rotors, oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, etc.

For the far events where I have to get a hotel, I'd say my weekend costs run $900 to $1k. For events at the track local to me, where I don't have to tow far, get a hotel, eat at home etc., I'd say I get away with $600 to $700.

I second buying a used race car. It's WAAAY cheaper. If I were to sell my car today, I'd probably get 1/2 of what I put into it, taking into account what the car is worth as a used (i.e. non-race) car. Don't get me wrong, I LOVED building my car, but I'm the type that likes working on the car as much as I drive it. I know some that absolutely hate working on cars. They just want to drive. For them, buying something already built really is the best idea.


Modified by 117 at 8:07 PM 9/12/2007

 

im building on H2 car and i know dam well i should have just bought something. at least have bought somehting with a cage already in it. but whatever. we move on. not sure how much i've spent and i'm not done spending. i know i'm pritty much up to speed H2 wise (have been able to keep up with the H2 itrs).
1991 civic si
b16
99 si trans
autopower cage (thanks dave dearson)
itr/crx si brakes
sparco seat, wheel, belts
kosei/rota/ssr wheels.
used tires FTW

 

that can be a good junk of money or it can be next extremely little.

i bought one set of tires this year, the rest of the tires i have are used tires that other racers don't want, figure about 10 bucks a tire from the guys i buy them from.

Rotors, i used $12 each they last me the whole life of a pad, at which point i probably could keep using them but since it is only $24 dollars i swap them out.

Pads, well lets see i have ran 8 race days on them and 2 track days, (one of which was 6 25 minute sessions). I still have another 4 or so race days on them also. COBALT XR3's are an awsome pad, i think they were 140 or so.

Oil and filter, i use a new filter and flush the oil after every weekend. I run mobile1 which is about 25 dollars plus $5 or so for a filter.

Trans fluid- i run a KAAZ LSD so i run there fluid, it is expensive but i flush it at the start and the middle of the season.

brake fluid, i flush it once a year it is all i need.

But here is the kicker, my car only ways 2250lbs and has a d16z6 motor in it. Once you increase the weight and power everything needs replacement more often.


Edit if the H2 class is what you want, it would be impossible to build this car for less money. The parts list is VERY extensive. I have no idea on the actual build though

[QUOTE=VTECAcuraGSR]I am really selling this time.. No one will be changing my mind as I am going for my MBA and will have no time and/or money.

1995 SCCA ITS Acura Integra GSR

• Clean Title
• Currently 77,000 Original miles, owned since 22,000 miles
• Car is straight, with only a couple dings, never in a wreck
• SCCA Logbook with 2007 Annual (Ran 4 races this year)

Safety
• Never tested BERG cage 
• Red Pro 2000 seat with custom mounting brackets
• Brand New G Force 6 Pt Pro Cam Lock Belts
• MOMO Steering Wheel, 3” spacer, and quick release

Engine Modifications
• Original matching number, B18C1 stock motor and transmission
• Car has always seen Mobil 1 5W-30
• Remote 13 Row Setrab Oil Cooler with 10 AN SS braided lines
• Canton remote oil filter with replacement synthetic cartridge
• Brand New Comptech Short Ram Intake
• Magnacore Spark Plug Wires
• New Cap, Rotor and Spark Plugs
• 165 hp at wheels with Dyno Sheets (Stock Motor)
• DC Sports JDM 4-1 Ceramic Header with 2.5” Stainless Steel SMS straight race exhaust with dump behind drivers seat (No Cat)
• B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
• SCCA Fuel Test Port
• Baffled Oil Pan with Oil Temp Bung
• Autometer Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges
• Endyn Catch can – Removed all stock breathers

Chassis Modifications
• Koni 3011 Double Adjustable Inverted Shocks with 800F and 1100R Eibach Springs
• A-Spec Racing custom 27mm Race Sway Bar and subframe mounting plate (like Comptech)
• SS Braided Brake Lines
• Brake Ducts
• New Cobalt Brake Rotors
• New Front Brake Cobalt Spec VR Pads
• New Rear Brake Cobalt Sport Pads
• New Rear Brake Calipers
• Brand New Acura lower Ball Joints, UCA’s, wheel bearings, Tie rod ends
• New Hardrace Spherical RTA bearings
• Brand New Rear Hub
• Extended Wheel studs all around

Tires
• 4 Kosei Silver 4x100 38mm Offset with Hoosier RS06 225/45/15
• 4 Kosei White 4x100 38mm Offset with Hoosier RS06 225/45/15

Other
• Brand New Windshield
• Sparco Foot Pedal Covers
• New Drivers and Passenger Side Raxles
• New Clutch
• OEM ITR LSD in Stock Tranny (Perfect condition – No grinds what so ever!)
• Car is wired for DL1 (but DL1 is not included)
• Custom tuned ECU with removable chip to use Chrome, etc
• Spare Brake Rotors, Pads, and a ton more!
• Car has been corner weighted

-----Asking $10,000 OBO----
Needs absolutely nothing, but a driver
Trailer is also available

Please direct all questions to JeremyBilliel@comcast.net





Modified by slammed_93_hatch at 7:03 PM 9/12/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(have been able to keep up with the H2 itrs)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Josh doesn't count

Just kidding.
&lt;--- Still not as fast as either of you on Summit, though at VIR I can give you a run for your money

 

i'd hope so. i was at VIR once....in hpde1 or 2 in the rain.
and when i first started going to slummit josh used to roll me HARD! so at least i think im getting faster.

and jer's car is a great deal for someone who wants to get into racing. put an ls in it and run H4, keep the gsr and run H2 (and then you can put 11" brakes on it) or put a K or a b-series of the H1 type and run H1

 

Yeah, you're definitely fast at Summit, and so is Josh. I'm looking forward to watching you guys play around in October

 

As others have said, buying a car is so much easier and less expensive than building one. When people sell racecars, they typically get around $0.50 on the dollar they spent, sometimes less.

If your considering Integras, Jermey's is a nice car (posted above). I also think the H4 tegs are an excellent option.

 

Do not do it!! Fight the Urge........

Prepare to shrink the accounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRmorris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
At events what is the average cost of racing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

$8-15k to build or buy the car. Racing is another ~$800-$1000/weekend (factor entry fees, tire/brake wear, maintenance, travel, hotel etc). Most do 6-10 weekends a year.

It sounds expensive - it is

 

I know of one fast H4 Integra which will be up for sale soon....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gtracer15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know of one fast H4 Integra which will be up for sale soon....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're selling?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're selling?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Under serious consideration....new job duties will significantly impact first 6-8 months of 08..
Options are to sell it or jackstand it..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gtracer15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Options are to sell it or jackstand it.. </TD></TR></TABLE>



If you're going to race later in the year, let it sit for a while. Thats free and no hassle.

 

True that.....I figure I would put it up and see if there are any reasonable offers..if not, then jack stands it would be....I'm in no rush to sell it as it has only seen 2 weekends so far.
Catch you over on the other side...


Modified by Gtracer15 at 7:52 AM 9/13/2007

 

I probably spent about $30 - 40K my first year of racing for H2. You say $40K, are you smoking crack! The breakdown, all are approx:

Truck: $13K
Trailer: $2K
Modifications to a street car to make race worthy: $10K (cage, suspension, etc. etc.)
1st year of racing at $1K per weekend: $10K

This adds up to about $35K.

Zephyr and others may drive to the track, but I don't have the mechanical ability to be able to get a broken race car back onto the road in the event something happened, so I elected to buy a tow vehicle and trailer.

ITB, ITC, H4, H5 are all cheaper alternatives because they are probably about 35-50% less on a per race basis (less tire and brake wear), older cars therefore cheaper startup costs, etc. etc.

 

Racing isn't a cheap hobby, but at the same time it doesn't have to cost a ton either. It goes back to "needs" versus "wants" to race. I would love to turn my daily S2000 into a race car, but instead race an '87 Honda Prelude si with 110 hp. Gesh, I could write a book on this topic. LOL

It all depends on how deep your wallet is, and how competitive one wants to be. With my first Prelude, all I wanted was a safe and reliable car. I recently build another Prelude, and wanted a front winning car. Talk about a different budget for the two. (My current car has somewhere around $12K in it with a pro built motor, custom koni suspension, ect.)

It's totally not what you're looking for, but as an example I have an ex SSB Neon that could be used in Spec Neon, PT, or ITA that eventually I'll be selling for around $3,000. If you look, you'll find something that fits into your goals.

Oh, btw, Zephyr bought my tow dolly and now uses his Subaru to tow the racecar to the track.

 

building your own is fun, but very expensive.. my advice, buy an already built one.. plenty of good cars out there available for sale!

 

We have a fleet of 5 racecars...
Two we built from scratch, and the other three were purchased as runners or close to it.
Take my advice... DO NOT BUILD A NEW CAR!

If you want a Class winning H2 Car I have it for sale... 2000 Si Coupe Fresh Type R Engine, Buddy Club Suspension, and all the best equipment, Heaps of spares. $12.000.00 I'll deliver free to anywhere in California. Out of state by negotiation.

If you are interested email me at kiwi@specialprojectsms.com
and I'll give you all the details, history, pic's, and a endless list of the equipment that goes with the car.
I love driving this car, it handles great! and it is fast!
The only reason Were selling the car is that it is the last of our "B series" and we are concentrating on the K'series now.


Kiwi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, btw, Zephyr bought my tow dolly and now uses his Subaru to tow the racecar to the track. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that tow dolly is on its way out to mid-ohio right now

Yeah, you're definitely fast at Summit, and so is Josh. I'm looking forward to watching you guys play around in October
i wont be there that weekend. i'm going to the glen

 

Well damn. I'll see you next year then