What are you guys torqueing your lugs to on your aftermarket rims?
I'm going to the track next sunday and want to make sure 85-90 ft lbs is okay on my ep3. I have extended Skunk2 lugs, soon to get some extended studs.
Thanks Todd. I have another question for you. Have you heard anything bad about Kosei K1's? I'm looking at a set for the track. They are cheap and only 13 lbs each.
This is what I'm talking about - http://forums.roadfly.com/foru....html
Should I still go 85 ft lbs with those rims after sanding off the paint around the lugnut contact patch or just steer clear of them? (The set I'd be buying would have the plastic hub)
This is what I'm talking about - http://forums.roadfly.com/foru....html
Should I still go 85 ft lbs with those rims after sanding off the paint around the lugnut contact patch or just steer clear of them? (The set I'd be buying would have the plastic hub)
Yes, use the 'tuner' style of lugnuts on Kosei aftermarket rims. I have a whole bunch of brand new lugnuts that I was going to post up for sale soon if you need any (sometimes places will give you lugnuts when you buy wheels).
Kosei makes decent wheels (much better than Rota IMO), so you'll be fine.
Kosei makes decent wheels (much better than Rota IMO), so you'll be fine.
Exactly what Todd00 said ... you'll have no problems with the Kosei on track. I torque my lugs to 80 ft/lbs for both track and daily driving ... I think 80 is the norm for most guys I see on track. Be sure to re-check the lugs before each session on track ... and make sure you do this when the lugs/studs etc are relatively cool to prevent over torque damage.
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Is that why I see people spraying water on their rims at the track? To cool the studs/lugs?
Out of something like this:

Should I buy one of these and bring it to the track (first timer)?
Out of something like this:

Should I buy one of these and bring it to the track (first timer)?
I'm not exactly sure what they are doing ... IMO I would never spray water directly onto hot studs/lugs/rotors etc ... esp after coming off track. This can cause some major damage. You usually want these items to cool on their own ...
I'm on a Porsche racing team and have only seen teams use water to cool rotor temps while on track by using sprayers to atomize water in the air in front of the calipers ... this tends to lower rotor temps by 100+ degrees. You def will not need this ... just a little extra info to throw out there.
So no ... do not buy the sprayer ... and do not spray water on your hot rotors/lugs/studs etc ... just let them cool on their own. It doesn't take too long for temps to come down once off track ...
since this is your first time ... remember to not set your parking brake once you come off track ... I've seen so many people ruin a set of rear rotors/pads this way!!
I'm on a Porsche racing team and have only seen teams use water to cool rotor temps while on track by using sprayers to atomize water in the air in front of the calipers ... this tends to lower rotor temps by 100+ degrees. You def will not need this ... just a little extra info to throw out there.
So no ... do not buy the sprayer ... and do not spray water on your hot rotors/lugs/studs etc ... just let them cool on their own. It doesn't take too long for temps to come down once off track ...
since this is your first time ... remember to not set your parking brake once you come off track ... I've seen so many people ruin a set of rear rotors/pads this way!!
listen to everyone's advice, you won't need the sprayer, plus it's not good because as science says: if you cool a very hot metal rapidly it will crack. and tirerack is wrong, never use OEM lugs on aftermarket wheels, the seating is wrong, thats why the lugs started backing out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FullEP3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since this is your first time ... remember to not set your parking brake once you come off track ... I've seen so many people ruin a set of rear rotors/pads this way!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definity something I wouldn't thought of. Thanks!
Definity something I wouldn't thought of. Thanks!
They use those sprayers to cool their tires down, especially for autox.
They could be used to cool wheels and calipers, but for a normal HPDE if you get them that hot you're probably pushing things a bit too much.
They could be used to cool wheels and calipers, but for a normal HPDE if you get them that hot you're probably pushing things a bit too much.
The owner of the rims said to torque to 100 ft/lbs and he went up to 120 ft/lbs on the track. That sounds like overkill to me. What should the limit be for a 12/1.5 50mm extended stud be? 4 lug.
80-85 is plenty (I have 11 days of solid track time this year at this torque setting with no issues) ... I would not go any higher. 95 ft/lbs is the highest I have ever gone ... but that was on a porsche
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They use those sprayers to cool their tires down, especially for autox.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right. Falken RT-215s in particular were notorious for being excellent for one or two runs, but got slower and slower as they heated up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They could be used to cool wheels and calipers, but for a normal HPDE if you get them that hot you're probably pushing things a bit too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't use sprayers or water to cool anything else. That's what cool-down laps are for. Brake rotors, especially, can crack if cooled too quickly.
Right. Falken RT-215s in particular were notorious for being excellent for one or two runs, but got slower and slower as they heated up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They could be used to cool wheels and calipers, but for a normal HPDE if you get them that hot you're probably pushing things a bit too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't use sprayers or water to cool anything else. That's what cool-down laps are for. Brake rotors, especially, can crack if cooled too quickly.
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