Can someone clear this up for me, i've heard it from a couple people but don't know for sure..can someone answer yes/no?

If you take LS rods/crank and put that in a GSR block, that would act as a "stroker kit" for the GSR? Can anyone confirm? Also what would need to be changed to make this fit? Removal of the oil squirters, etc?

If this has been covered before please re-direct me to the propper link. I did some searching but came across with nothing. Thanks for the help in advance....

 

yes you would be picking up some stroke. from 87 to 89mm. you can bend the squirters to clear or remove them. otherwise there arent any other modifications that need to be done to the block. you are basically ending up with an LS/vtec, but the block just says B18C

 

not really an lsvtec, as its still a gsr block, and stronger than the LS

 

is it something worth while? i'll be building an all motor gsr and just debating if it's worth my time or not...

 

imo it is. get as much displacement as you can

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">imo it is. get as much displacement as you can</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but if ur gonna go that route u might as well get a real stroker setup. 2mm isnt going to be anything noticeable. if u want a noticable gain than i would look into an actual stroker kit from brian crower. http://www.briancrower.com/
i would go with either the 92mm or 95mm.

 

okay, am i going to have issues when buying parts? do i just buy the rods/pistons as if they were ls or do i buy ls rods and gsr slugs, etc?

 

ok that last post was rather dumb, 2 hours of sleep wasn't doin much for me...so then, ignore previous post...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea but if ur gonna go that route u might as well get a real stroker setup. 2mm isnt going to be anything noticeable. if u want a noticable gain than i would look into an actual stroker kit from brian crower. http://www.briancrower.com/
i would go with either the 92mm or 95mm. </TD></TR></TABLE>

possibly....just depends on how tight money will be in the long run. i may set it up as i have been talking about until i get a little extra money, this engine will be a long term build but i can't see spending 1500+ on a stroker kit when the LS crank/rods will do the same thing (other than a little less displacement) for free...(i have a spare LS complete long block in my garage...

couple questions for you guys though

a) anyone have some online calculator of how to figure out my compression with this setup? or is there a way i can re-calculate? looking at some 11-1 (in gsr) pistons...and putting them on some eagle or some other brand stock sized ls rods.

b) should i just bend (as lohatch said) the oil squirters out of the way or remove them all together. i will not run this motor without forged pistons...

c) is it correct that there will be no milling or other machine work required to make the crank/rods fit? (other than oil squirter modification) obviously new bearings/seals/bolts will be used, just trying to check this thing out first before i get myself in over my head....

d) any cons to doing this setup? if it gives you all the torque of an ls and the ability of a gsr why don't i hear of more people doing this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Itzmy91Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a) anyone have some online calculator of how to figure out my compression with this setup? or is there a way i can re-calculate? looking at some 11-1 (in gsr) pistons...and putting them on some eagle or some other brand stock sized ls rods.

b) should i just bend (as lohatch said) the oil squirters out of the way or remove them all together. i will not run this motor without forged pistons...

c) is it correct that there will be no milling or other machine work required to make the crank/rods fit? (other than oil squirter modification) obviously new bearings/seals/bolts will be used, just trying to check this thing out first before i get myself in over my head....

d) any cons to doing this setup? if it gives you all the torque of an ls and the ability of a gsr why don't i hear of more people doing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

a.) zealautowerks.com used to be real good but i dont think the site works anymore. just google it, there has to be more

b.) with forged pistons i dont run the squirters. i have tried bending them and running them but i think they were getting too much oil on the cyl walls and it would load up and smoke sometimes. once i removed them it never happened again.

c.)thats right it all bolts right together. the small end of the LS rod is about .100" wider than the gsr rod so you might have to narrow the short end a little if running a gsr/itr/etc piston. also i would run some ARP rod bolts and get the big end rebuilt. you will probably have $150-$200 into the stock rods after all said and done but they are more than sufficient for 200+hp and 9000rpm. but it is your call. for another $100 you can be in a set of eagles.

d.) a lot people build ls/vtec's and b20/vtec's. it would be even more popular if half the people that built them knew how to build engines. there is nothing wrong with the engines when assembled properly and they will run a long time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a.) zealautowerks.com used to be real good but i dont think the site works anymore. just google it, there has to be more

b.) with forged pistons i dont run the squirters. i have tried bending them and running them but i think they were getting too much oil on the cyl walls and it would load up and smoke sometimes. once i removed them it never happened again.

c.)thats right it all bolts right together. the small end of the LS rod is about .100" wider than the gsr rod so you might have to narrow the short end a little if running a gsr/itr/etc piston. also i would run some ARP rod bolts and get the big end rebuilt. you will probably have $150-$200 into the stock rods after all said and done but they are more than sufficient for 200+hp and 9000rpm. but it is your call. for another $100 you can be in a set of eagles.

d.) a lot people build ls/vtec's and b20/vtec's. it would be even more popular if half the people that built them knew how to build engines. there is nothing wrong with the engines when assembled properly and they will run a long time</TD></TR></TABLE>

a) i've done a little searching for the calculator but still haven't come up with anything..i guess i'll keep trying...

b) good to know, thanks for the tip. I knew oil squirters were not required with forged pistons but i didn't know if they were recomended or not...

c) i'm definately going to be using after market rods. thanks again for the grinding down tip. eagles are definately at the top of my list as far as rods but if a better deal comes along i gadda jump on that ya know? I'm not afraid to spend money, but like others, i'd rather save if possible without cutting corners

d) i built an ls vtec a while back...type r pistons, skunk 2 valve train, eagle rods, etc...the motor is still running with the same 12-1 compression as far as i know. (shaved both the block and head down to get a little higher compression) i would not even be willing to start a build like this if i didn't know what i was doing, but unlike a lot of people i have a full shop at my fingertips that will allow me to do sleeving, port and polish, micropolish, etc.

e) what is the highest compression ratio i can run using 91 octane SAFELY? i do realize most of that is in the tune, and i do have a highly skilled tuner available. i believe i was told the highest anyone would go was 12.5-1 on 91 octane...anyone confirm?

i know i used to have a compression calculator saved but i don't know what happened to it...my wife probably deleted it...thanks for the tips so far..

can anyone else confirm the shaving of the upper portion of the ls rods? NO, they will not be stock, most likely eagle rods...will there be any problems with the rod being too small near the hottest part of the engine?


EDIT: i found the website...it's not perfect but i'm only looking for a general compression ratio http://www.c-speedracing.com anyone confirm that it's a decent site?


Modified by Itzmy91Teg at 5:58 PM 9/11/2007


Modified by Itzmy91Teg at 6:00 PM 9/11/2007

 

Can anyone confirm this...
Using b18c1 block/head (stock bore), stock LS rods/crank, PCT (jdm b16b pistons), and 2 layer headgasket, i should be running right around 12.5-1 compression? (depending on how much i shave off the head/block?

 

Are you planning on running race fuel?

 

no, that question above was to check to see how accurate my calculator is.

i will be running 91 since here in california it's illegal to snease if you're in the general area of a cop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clem kevin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not really an lsvtec, as its still a gsr block, and stronger than the LS</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's not go into that debate. You're right, the block does not say "b18a/b" on it, but the whole premise of building an "lsvtec" is using an 89mm stroke in conjuction w/ a vtec head, which honda never designed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Let's not go into that debate. You're right, the block does not say "b18a/b" on it, but the whole premise of building an "lsvtec" is using an 89mm stroke in conjuction w/ a vtec head, which honda never designed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so wouldn't this be the best of both worlds? low end torque and top end power (like ls/vtec) only difference is that 1 you don't have to plug/tap any holes, and 2 people in cali don't get their cars impounded because it looks like a stock engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Itzmy91Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so wouldn't this be the best of both worlds? low end torque and top end power (like ls/vtec) only difference is that 1 you don't have to plug/tap any holes, and 2 people in cali don't get their cars impounded because it looks like a stock engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure. I don't have to worry about impounding here. The police don't even know how to spell "B16". As for the block, I'll take a $100-150 LS block and $100 lsvtec kit anyday, over spending $400+ on a GSR block. Running your oil to the head via an external line is actually a better way than having it supplied in the normal manner that a vtec block would.
The only real benefit I see of using a GSR/ITR block w/ the 89mm crank would be the oem girdle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sure. I don't have to worry about impounding here. The police don't even know how to spell "B16". As for the block, I'll take a $100-150 LS block and $100 lsvtec kit anyday, over spending $400+ on a GSR block. Running your oil to the head via an external line is actually a better way than having it supplied in the normal manner that a vtec block would.
The only real benefit I see of using a GSR/ITR block w/ the 89mm crank would be the oem girdle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would love to be able to drive my old ls/vtec around but like i said, here the police are poppin hoods for no reason what so ever (i got pulled over 7 times in 4 days...everytime doing speed limit, using signals, etc. just because i had a muffler on my car they pulled me over and popped my hood)...that's more or less the only reason i'm going with the gsr/ls stroker combo. just so when i do get pulled over, the engine looks stock/legal.


btw your "how to build a reliable ls/vtec" was my bible when i was building mine...thanks for that! i actually saw it on b20vtec but noticed it on here a while afterward...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Itzmy91Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would love to be able to drive my old ls/vtec around but like i said, here the police are poppin hoods for no reason what so ever (i got pulled over 7 times in 4 days...everytime doing speed limit, using signals, etc. just because i had a muffler on my car they pulled me over and popped my hood)...that's more or less the only reason i'm going with the gsr/ls stroker combo. just so when i do get pulled over, the engine looks stock/legal.


btw your "how to build a reliable ls/vtec" was my bible when i was building mine...thanks for that! i actually saw it on b20vtec but noticed it on here a while afterward...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem. I'm actually surprised at how much it's crawled it's way around the internet to numberous websites and forums. If you search for it in google, it's everywhere. What makes me happier is, I haven't heard one bad story from anyone that used my guide as a basis for their build.

 

I built mine and ended up selling it to a guy down in sothern cali for right around 1200 (he got a damn good deal though) last i heard he still has it running around (1 1/2 years later)...12-1 compression and all..daily driven

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Itzmy91Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I built mine and ended up selling it to a guy down in sothern cali for right around 1200 (he got a damn good deal though) last i heard he still has it running around (1 1/2 years later)...12-1 compression and all..daily driven</TD></TR></TABLE>

I sold my last one for $2000 w/ P30's, BC4's, JG valvetrain, 310ccs, ITR intake manifold, throttle body, and header. He got a good deal considering the motor was tuned and broken in and only had 700 miles on it.


Modified by bambam at 1:45 AM 9/12/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I sold my last one for $2000 w/ P30's, BC4's, JG valvetrain, 310ccs, ITR intake manifold, throttle body, and header. He got a good deal considering the motor was tuned and broken in and only had 700 miles on it.
Modified by bambam at 1:45 AM 9/12/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is a damn good deal....mine was jdm type r slugs, oem rods, rod bolts, gsr head w/ skunk valvetrain/cams, p&p, micropolished/ballanced crank, p28, and some no name header

 

Yah, he did get a deal. Mine was balanced, honed, knifeedged, arp rod bolts, new rings, new pistons, all new seals, as well. I'm currently building another one 85x89mm. Looking for 250whp and 10.99's in a crx daily driven. It's doable.

 

combustion contraption says he wouldnt go much more than about 11.7:1 and he is in cali.

 

I was about to say something about the 12.5:1 CR. Im only at around 12:1 CR on Cali 91 octane and I still don't feel comfortable advancing my timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">combustion contraption says he wouldnt go much more than about 11.7:1 and he is in cali.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Someone PM'ed with the same question yesterday. I told him 11.5:1 was the max I would go...and that was with a real good tune, colder plugs, and some aftermarket cams with some decent duration to them.