Well, my engine is shot.. I ran dry on a piston and it seized. I've still to crack open the motor to assess the damage but a rebuild is definitely coming. This was my car's oem and untouched bottom end. I want to rebuild to go in line with my head work and JUN3 package. Should I go oversize ?? Higher compression with high pistons ?? My ITR's head has been polished, ported, and the chambers reshaped. With the OEM pistons and JUN3 cams, I was showing 295psi on all 4 pistons. Basically, as long as I have to rebuild, I want to rebuild stronger and better. Here's your clean slate guys, what would you do ??

 

It depends on how badly the cylinder wall is damaged.

What are your power goals?

 

Well, the car was putting down a respectable 206whp as it was .. Basically, I have no specific number in mind.. I'd just like to take the opportunity to enhance on what I already have. I'm thinking oversized CTR pistons for the extra compression and displacement.. What do you think ??

 

If it were me, I'd do something similar to this build. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1922534

 

Hey, who is doing your work in Puerto Rico? Name, town? Maybe I know them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Comp97GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it were me, I'd do something similar to this build. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1922534 </TD></TR></TABLE>
I concur. That build is pretty sweet.

 

That's one nice build !! The one thing I didn't like was the fact that the motor is built for "two seasons" ... With all the money spent, you would think it would last longer .. then again, this is a track car where my ITR is a street driver... BTW, does anyone know how much the bottom end build cost for that project ??

Why would you use a B18C1 crankshaft instead of a B18C5 ??

 

You can't determine it yet...

What I mean by that is this... if the walls are bad, then I would sleeve it and go big. 2.0 all the way. You already have the head package, why not build the bottom to match.

My vote (given the walls are bad) would be the Darton sleeve it, build 84mm (or 85 if you want that much) and high comp. around 12.5:1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You already have the head package, why not build the bottom to match.

My vote (given the walls are bad) would be the Darton sleeve it, build 84mm (or 85 if you want that much) and high comp. around 12.5:1</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is exactly the direction I want to be looking at .. What about the crankshaft ?? I am thinking of having mine re-balanced, blueprinted, and reused in the rebuild.. As long as I am building a NA motor, am I ok with OEM rods, pistons, etc ?? I am a big believer in Honda OEM quality and I'd like to stay as OEM as possible.

 

Some go with the LS crank, some with the stock crank, just depends on what your looking for.

You "could" use stock rods and pistons, but why? The pistons will be too small if you go 84mm and if your going to change the pistons, change the rods too.

If you want to stay OEM, then forget about the 84mm or 2.0 liter builds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some go with the LS crank, some with the stock crank, just depends on what your looking for.

You "could" use stock rods and pistons, but why? The pistons will be too small if you go 84mm and if your going to change the pistons, change the rods too.

If you want to stay OEM, then forget about the 84mm or 2.0 liter builds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't mean to abuse your courtesy but here's a couple more questions ..

1. Assuming I went with a 2.0L buildup, what pistons, rods, crank, etc. would you recommend ??

2. Back to the crank issue, when you say it depends on what I'm looking for, what do you mean ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't mean to abuse your courtesy but here's a couple more questions ..

1. Assuming I went with a 2.0L buildup, what pistons, rods, crank, etc. would you recommend ??

2. Back to the crank issue, when you say it depends on what I'm looking for, what do you mean ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. wiseco, cp, arias, je, for pistons. eagle, carillo, crower, for rods. depending on how much you want to spend. stock crank.

2. an ls crank will give you a slight bump in displacement. you'll get torque sooner. keep in mind you'll also need ls length rods if you use an ls crank.

 

sorry to see it came to this bro. but I wouldnt start planning anything until you get it opened up to see whats wrong. id be concerned with finding out WHY it seized up, especially since you said it still showed some oil on the dip stick in your other thread. I say open it up and go from there. if its just seized up from starvation or spun a bearing or something, then you will have different options as far as fixing or rebuilding it, or starting with something new.

 

Thanks guys .. a broken motor really sucks but I am trying to keep my focus on the positive side meaning a nice bottom end buildup opportunity. Since this is going to be a bigger project than I thought, I am taking the car to my mechanic's shop to start tearing down probably this weekend.

As of this moment, I am doing some pricing to see if a 2.0L buildup is feasible within my budget. By the way, those Darton sleeves are freaking expensive !!

I want to thank you all for your suggestions and comments which are really appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. wiseco, cp, arias, je, for pistons. eagle, carillo, crower, for rods. depending on how much you want to spend. stock crank.

2. an ls crank will give you a slight bump in displacement. you'll get torque sooner. keep in mind you'll also need ls length rods if you use an ls crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are going all motor, keep your rotating assembly as light as possible. Carillo rods are going to be the lightest for the money. Carillo does not make a rod to work with an 87.2mm crank so you will need to use the 89mm LS crank (at least this was the case when I built my last motor). It all depeonds on how much you want to spend......

 

Bore it. Even if the walls are good, boring will freshen it up better than re-ringing it.

If you have to sleeve, I'd go with AEBS. CP or Supertech pistons, Cunningham rods.

 

Yup ... I'm definitely boring the cyls be it to accomodate new sleeves or to install oversized pistons.. I think this is a must if there's any kind of marking on the walls ...

Bradstard, I was looking at different rods looking for light weight that I can use with my ITR crank. I didn't know Carillo wasn't making them for the 87.2mm, that kind of sucks because I don't want to spend on another crank.. What about knife-edging ?? Worth it ??

 

LS cranks are pretty cheap, and I'd be willing to bet you could trade your ITR one straight up with someone. Everyone knows the ITR parts add like 50 WHP and stickers are good for another 20.

But really, if you want to go Carillo, go the LS crank route.

 

^ An LS crank can be had to beer money... When you get your rotating assembly balanced, the crank will be balanced along with everything else.

 

get the oil holes chamfered while you are in there to help with oil delivery to the bearings.

 

Definitely sleeve the block with the new rebuild.

 

re sleeve to 2.0L

 

I got my LS crank for $50 and sold my ITR crank for $250.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Carillo does not make a rod to work with an 87.2mm crank so you will need to use the 89mm LS crank (at least this was the case when I built my last motor). </TD></TR></TABLE>

they do now

 

my two cents: for the $ spent on a buildup of a bseries like the one for EleanoR, I'd probably just go with a kswap.....

but if you're definitely going to stick with the B, then a high compression 1.8 or possibly 2.0 if you can afford to sleeve.