My radiator had got a crack ....so anyways, I will have to change it.
Any specific reccomendations regarding the type/brand of repalcement radiator?
I guess any dual core would do the job?

thanks

 

What engine in what car might help us out.

 

Its a mildly modded GSR

 

I have a fluidyne and have never ever once gotten hot. Even at Willow Springs. In August.

 

5 years on my stock ITR radiator and I havent had any problems other then a busted mount ...

I'm only now throwing in a full size koyo rad because it came on a car I recently bought

 

I've had good results with fluidyne. 100ish weather, turbo integra and it was all peachy for HPDE days.

 

What were your temps like before the crack? Depending on aftermarket cost and your budget, and if temps were reasonable, you may think about just going back to stock.

I'd recommend something from Ron Davis but it may be overkill for HPDEs. But there's really no shortage of aftermarket products.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What were your temps like before the crack? Depending on aftermarket cost and your budget, and if temps were reasonable, you may think about just going back to stock.

I'd recommend something from Ron Davis but it may be overkill for HPDEs. But there's really no shortage of aftermarket products. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ron Davis definately overkill(priced is more like it) for HPDE's...... Even here in Phoenix most guys run a Koyo or Fluidyne and never have problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kineticgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even here in Phoenix most guys run a Koyo or Fluidyne and never have problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but it's a dry heat.

What's the price difference b/t Koyo vs. Fluidyne vs. OE?

 

I've been running a Mishimoto full size dual-core aluminum radiator for over a year in my GSR. Haven't had any problems with it- I've done a few nonstop 16 hour roadtrips, a few autocrosses, and a 40-minute track session last week. Not to mention stop and go Denver traffic in the summer with the AC on.

the price went up, but $185 shipped is still pretty good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

fitment wasn't exactly OEM but wasn't too bad. had to hack up the fan a bit, bend the AC line bracket, and get rid of the AC fan all together:

 

anyone have a better luck with fitment. Also, i'm thinking of doing an A/C delete, but if i don't i would like to keep the fan

 

OEM at the dealer was quoted $389 + tax.
Koyo ones on ebay /Honda-tech sponsors goes for around $300 to $330 shipped.

Not sure about Fluidyne...who sells it here?

 

Holy ****. You can get a new full-size Integra radiator for like $100 shipped on ebay. $300 is WAY too much. $50 will also pick up a Del Sol dual-core unit used on here.

 

i've bought four radiators from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...14145
no problems out of any of them so far.
one of them has been in my daily driver for over a year's worth of driving and four tracks days.at Expo it was pretty hot,and Carguys about a month ago it was 95ish degrees with a couple 40 minute sessions.no problems at all.engine is a basically stock B20Z.
i like this guy's stuff since he sells two distinct models for D or B series Civics.in the past i've asked sellers what size outlets their radiators have,and they never have any clue.the weld quality is also better than any other cheapo radiator i've seen.
Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've bought four radiators from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...14145
no problems out of any of them so far.
one of them has been in my daily driver for over a year's worth of driving and four tracks days.at Expo it was pretty hot,and Carguys about a month ago it was 95ish degrees with a couple 40 minute sessions.no problems at all.engine is a basically stock B20Z.
i like this guy's stuff since he sells two distinct models for D or B series Civics.in the past i've asked sellers what size outlets their radiators have,and they never have any clue.the weld quality is also better than any other cheapo radiator i've seen.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet deal, but where are the DA and EF radiators!?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vracer111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sweet deal, but where are the DA and EF radiators!? </TD></TR></TABLE>
don't know....try shooting him an email.i wanted an EG radiator with the B-series outlets,and he didn't have any listed.he put one up for auction after i asked him about it.
chris

 

on the topic of radiators, what kind of cooland everyone is using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on the topic of radiators, what kind of cooland everyone is using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever's cheapest,in a 50/50 mix,with a few ounces of Water Wetter thrown in.
Chris

 

stock full length civic rad ftw. only had an issue when a rock punctured it. new stock rad+screen=good to go. even at 100*+ at summit

 

run at stock itr radiator in my eg civic road/race car. never misses a beat

 

Seems all you guys have a good stock radiator (ITR) you can throw in.
I'm wondering if I'll need to upgrade mine soon....for HPDE use.

I can set my CEL to light up once ECT reaches a certain temp, at which point I'd know to let the car cool.
I've been setting it to 202-204F but often times it reaches those temps when I'm getting in the flow (having done a few laps already).

Is that a good temp or can it be run hotter (while still giving the motor a good margin of safety)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've been setting it to 202-204F but often times it reaches those temps when I'm getting in the flow (having done a few laps already).

Is that a good temp or can it be run hotter (while still giving the motor a good margin of safety)</TD></TR></TABLE>

It can safely be run hotter. It's a pressurized system, so the water won't boil at 212* like it normally would at atmospheric pressure. Plus, any additives in the water generally increase the BP. I've had a few overheating problems with my race motor and it seems that it can get up to about 250* before it blows steam out of the overflow bottle. I pretty routinely see my car in the 210-220* range on a warm/hot day, even with my full-size fluidyne radiator.

 

ITR radiator in my EG, ran it (8) sessions in August (south carolina) and never had a problem with temps......Power FC temp never showed more than 90 degrees celsius with the heater on.

 

I think I will go with Koyo (around $300) ones.

Pepboys/Autozone variety goes for around $180'ish for the good ones...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy ****. You can get a new full-size Integra radiator for like $100 shipped on ebay. $300 is WAY too much. $50 will also pick up a Del Sol dual-core unit used on here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a del slow dual core as well. My temp never gets above the little boat thingy, no matter what track I am at. I also use the stock CX fan