Lightweight Flywheel
Might be pointless on a stock engine... and it will cost a lil more than an oem flywheel or oem replacement from Exedy. IMO I would just stick with oem or oem replacement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95_acc0rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no.... if you dont have p/s and a/c</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like my 7.9 lbs flywheel on my D15B VTEC, and it's not a full race machine. People say that its decreased mass will cause the high speed deceleration to become inconvenient, but in my experience, it isn't at all.
It gives me crucial revs from stop to go, which is important for city driving. I would say that the only downside is that you'll see no improvement at high speeds. It's an inertial upgrade, so it will only work when the speeds are lower, but I believe it's definitely worth it, and the downsides to one are not noticeable enough to deter me from getting one again if I needed to.
I like my 7.9 lbs flywheel on my D15B VTEC, and it's not a full race machine. People say that its decreased mass will cause the high speed deceleration to become inconvenient, but in my experience, it isn't at all.
It gives me crucial revs from stop to go, which is important for city driving. I would say that the only downside is that you'll see no improvement at high speeds. It's an inertial upgrade, so it will only work when the speeds are lower, but I believe it's definitely worth it, and the downsides to one are not noticeable enough to deter me from getting one again if I needed to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dodger2940 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exedy Racing Lightweight Flywheel (9.5 lbs) to be exact. Is there any downfalls to using such a light wieght flywheel??</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only downside is that some people don't like the way the revs will drop more quickly between shifts, and that a little more finesse is necessary when starting off in first gear. I personally greatly prefer the feel and engine response of a lightweight flywheel, and I'd go even lighter than the 9.5 lb Exedy.
Hopefully, the misinformed and simply incorrect "You'll lose torque!" bandwagon won't find its way to this thread, but I fear it's only a matter of time...
The only downside is that some people don't like the way the revs will drop more quickly between shifts, and that a little more finesse is necessary when starting off in first gear. I personally greatly prefer the feel and engine response of a lightweight flywheel, and I'd go even lighter than the 9.5 lb Exedy.
Hopefully, the misinformed and simply incorrect "You'll lose torque!" bandwagon won't find its way to this thread, but I fear it's only a matter of time...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of setup do you have currently?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you asking me, or the original poster?
Are you asking me, or the original poster?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You, I replied to your post.
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You can never be sure in the Civic /Del Sol forum...
In that case, the 22 lb. stock flywheel on my 1.8T.
I speak from my experience with my brother's Integra, which has both a Clutch Masters 7.5 lb. flywheel (same as Fidanza, and an excellent deal) and a UR crank pulley, so quite a bit of rotational mass has been removed from both sides of the crankshaft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You can never be sure in the Civic /Del Sol forum...
In that case, the 22 lb. stock flywheel on my 1.8T.
I speak from my experience with my brother's Integra, which has both a Clutch Masters 7.5 lb. flywheel (same as Fidanza, and an excellent deal) and a UR crank pulley, so quite a bit of rotational mass has been removed from both sides of the crankshaft.
well i used the findanze 8lb flywheel in my d16z6 and love it the only problem is that u will have alot of wheel spin if u take off hard and when i hit vtec it would peel out. but u have to rev pretty high to move the car. there worth the money
its not the torque you'll lose but,
everything else being equal, a lighter flywheel
only puts more stress on the drivetrain than a heavier one.
There's no point in arguing this statement either since you
cant argue with simple physics.
everything else being equal, a lighter flywheel
only puts more stress on the drivetrain than a heavier one.
There's no point in arguing this statement either since you
cant argue with simple physics.
Wow thanks to everyone that responded. Looks like there is different opinions here. The reason I asked is because I am changing the clutch out so I got the clutch and flywheel together. My car has basic bolt one right now.
I have read that the revs drop So I was worried about driving up a hill from a stop does the car tend to stall out or is it basically the same ?
I have read that the revs drop So I was worried about driving up a hill from a stop does the car tend to stall out or is it basically the same ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dodger2940 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have read that the revs drop So I was worried about driving up a hill from a stop does the car tend to stall out or is it basically the same ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It really depends upon the driver and how accustomed he is to the flywheel. You get used to it fairly quickly, and after that it's not an issue.
It really depends upon the driver and how accustomed he is to the flywheel. You get used to it fairly quickly, and after that it's not an issue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It really depends upon the driver and how accustomed he is to the flywheel. You get used to it fairly quickly, and after that it's not an issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks just the kind of information I was looking for.
Cool thanks just the kind of information I was looking for.
Once the car is in gear the flywheel doesn't have much effect, since the rotating mass of the engine & drivetrain plus all the load on them is far greater than the flywheel.
At low RPMs the flywheel keeps the engine rotating between cylinder firings, and that effect is at it's greatest when the engine is idling - and you don't drive around at idle much. The mass of the car moving forward keeps the engine rotating way more than a 6lb lighter flywheel.
Going up hills won't be changed once the car is in gear, because again once the engine is engaged the flywheel doesn't do much. If you're starting on a hill you may have to give it a little more gas and slip the clutch more than you're used to, but it doesn't take long to get used to that.
Personally, I was annoyed at how long the engine took to spin down when upshifting. With a lighter flywheel the engine drops RPM much faster when unloaded (out of gear), so instead of shifting into neutral, waiting for the RPMs to drop, then shifting into the next gear, it's a much more fluid motion, very little "wait" required. However I do try to rev-match shifts. FWIW, if someone doesn't rev-match, I don't think they should argue about wear and tear on the drivetrain.
At low RPMs the flywheel keeps the engine rotating between cylinder firings, and that effect is at it's greatest when the engine is idling - and you don't drive around at idle much. The mass of the car moving forward keeps the engine rotating way more than a 6lb lighter flywheel.
Going up hills won't be changed once the car is in gear, because again once the engine is engaged the flywheel doesn't do much. If you're starting on a hill you may have to give it a little more gas and slip the clutch more than you're used to, but it doesn't take long to get used to that.
Personally, I was annoyed at how long the engine took to spin down when upshifting. With a lighter flywheel the engine drops RPM much faster when unloaded (out of gear), so instead of shifting into neutral, waiting for the RPMs to drop, then shifting into the next gear, it's a much more fluid motion, very little "wait" required. However I do try to rev-match shifts. FWIW, if someone doesn't rev-match, I don't think they should argue about wear and tear on the drivetrain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can never be sure in the Civic /Del Sol forum...
In that case, the 22 lb. stock flywheel on my 1.8T.
I speak from my experience with my brother's Integra, which has both a Clutch Masters 7.5 lb. flywheel (same as Fidanza, and an excellent deal) and a UR crank pulley, so quite a bit of rotational mass has been removed from both sides of the crankshaft. </TD></TR></TABLE> Hey not trying to thread jack but how is that UR crank pulley holding? I've heard that those can cause problems!? I mean I would like try them out myself.
You can never be sure in the Civic /Del Sol forum...
In that case, the 22 lb. stock flywheel on my 1.8T.
I speak from my experience with my brother's Integra, which has both a Clutch Masters 7.5 lb. flywheel (same as Fidanza, and an excellent deal) and a UR crank pulley, so quite a bit of rotational mass has been removed from both sides of the crankshaft. </TD></TR></TABLE> Hey not trying to thread jack but how is that UR crank pulley holding? I've heard that those can cause problems!? I mean I would like try them out myself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mortificationrock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hey not trying to thread jack but how is that UR crank pulley holding? I've heard that those can cause problems!? I mean I would like try them out myself.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Perfectly fine for 3+ years, including numerous track days.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Perfectly fine for 3+ years, including numerous track days.
I have a 8lb and it took some getting use too...I wanted it out the first day but I like it now (2 weeks later) and also people can't easly drive my car because it is easier to stall...I think its funny
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Re3irth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the torque you'll lose but,
everything else being equal, a lighter flywheel
only puts more stress on the drivetrain than a heavier one.
There's no point in arguing this statement either since you
cant argue with simple physics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In that case, can you explain the simple physics of this?
In fact, you will see a power gain on an inertia dyno. You will also see a power gain from lighter drive wheels on an inertia dyno. However, that does not mean that your engine is producing more power. It's just the way in which inertia dyno's calculate power output.
I also agree with Padawan on this topic. If you don't mind the increased rate of change of engine speed, then the lighter the flywheel the better.
everything else being equal, a lighter flywheel
only puts more stress on the drivetrain than a heavier one.
There's no point in arguing this statement either since you
cant argue with simple physics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In that case, can you explain the simple physics of this?
In fact, you will see a power gain on an inertia dyno. You will also see a power gain from lighter drive wheels on an inertia dyno. However, that does not mean that your engine is producing more power. It's just the way in which inertia dyno's calculate power output.
I also agree with Padawan on this topic. If you don't mind the increased rate of change of engine speed, then the lighter the flywheel the better.



Only worth it if you're turning your car into a racing machine
i love it!