I bought a knock off GReddy Type-S and the diaphragm ripped...as did the genuine one i had.

Thinking about this thing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

 

Do yourself a favor and stop buying crap off of ebay.

Tial 50mm. End of story.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do yourself a favor and stop buying crap off of ebay.

Tial 50mm. End of story.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no reason to spend $200+ on idle control. That doesn't help my question.

 

Either get a knockoff SSQV or one of the authentic old school SSQV's can be had for pretty cheap in the classifieds occasionally as well. Alot of knockoff blow off valves are perfectly fine to use, as a matter of fact, my friend got a knockoff Type RS and we were extremely surprised with the overall quality of the valve.

 

They really aren't bad, the diaphragm was the same crap quality as the origional Type-S. It's just releasing air, as long as it seals and the diaphragm lasts, who cares.

I'll look in to the SSQV, anything bad about the one i posted? I need something that will release a good amount of air, i'm running a roots supercharger and i need it to release as much air as possible at idle.

 

ive only had experience with the knock off SSQV once and from my experience its a piece of ****. i have used a bunch of knock off greddy Type S and RS and all have worked flawlessly. i have a knock off RS on my daily and it works awesome going on a year, i have a geniune Type S on my CRX and it doesnt work any differently.

 

Might try the knock off RS then. I already have a GReddy flange for it.

 

i decided to run 2 hks which came to be 1/2 the price of real one. i had the real one before and really no difference pefrormance wise, a blow of valve is... a blow of valve it works or it doesn't.

effort wise, it turned out to be a bit more than expected.. but i made it work..

build quality isn't best,

#1.they send you wrong snap ring,
#2.original glue to piece the diaphragm isn't strong enough so it will end up coming apart
#3. aluminum flange is made out of aluminum cans, so you need to have some skills and take time or it will warp - but my welder was skilled and everything came out right.. then
#4. because of #1, i had to use metal clamp over BOV to ensure it won't fly off
#5 vaccum fitting isn't pressed in correctly or just too loose, so i had to jb weld both so nothing funky happens

(i'm sure you can have same problem with #4 ad #5 when running the original, but all 5 was more than i expected)

i made it all work.. but unless you feel like doing the same, i suggest to spend the extra $100-150

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i decided to run 2 hks which came to be 1/2 the price of real one. i had the real one before and really no difference pefrormance wise, a blow of valve is... a blow of valve it works or it doesn't.

effort wise, it turned out to be a bit more than expected.. but i made it work..

build quality isn't best,

#1.they send you wrong snap ring,
#2.original glue to piece the diaphragm isn't strong enough so it will end up coming apart
#3. aluminum flange is made out of aluminum cans, so you need to have some skills and take time or it will warp - but my welder was skilled and everything came out right.. then
#4. because of #1, i had to use metal clamp over BOV to ensure it won't fly off
#5 vaccum fitting isn't pressed in correctly or just too loose, so i had to jb weld both so nothing funky happens

(i'm sure you can have same problem with #4 ad #5 when running the original, but all 5 was more than i expected)

i made it all work.. but unless you feel like doing the same, i suggest to spend the extra $100-150</TD></TR></TABLE>

No thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do yourself a favor and stop buying crap off of ebay.

Tial 50mm. End of story.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, look what i found on ebay :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

 

i had a knock off vortech bov from treadstone ... it worked great .. never any problems

 

Isn't Treadstone a side company of Vortech?

 

Unless you're running a ****-ton of boost or want a cool ricer whistle, just get a DSM bov.

They're cheap as hell and work very reliably.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you're running a ****-ton of boost or want a cool ricer whistle, just get a DSM bov.

They're cheap as hell and work very reliably.</TD></TR></TABLE>

DSM valves leak, i have one laying around that i don't want if anyone wants to buy it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DSM valves leak, i have one laying around that i don't want if anyone wants to buy it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

DSM valves leak at idle. They are supposed to leak in vacuum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DSM valves leak at idle. They are supposed to leak in vacuum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

They leak in boost too. I need something that's open at idle, that's the point.

 

to answer your post topic question,

all of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to answer your post topic question,

all of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which ones have you ran or have experience with?

 

hks, the nipple came out, parts missing,
rfl's that the plunger doesnt move freely and causes to stall because it sticks open.

 

I have used the Tial 50mm style both from SSauto and OBX the latter being a pretty nice piece comparing it to the real Tial I have sitting here, the Turbo XS knock offs [type S,H-RFL etc] that work great as well and a couple others i dont even know what they are a knocked off originally . I have never had to modify etc anything just took it out of the box and install them some blow off valves require adjustment for the motor/vacum/boost levels but that goes for the real and knock offs.DSM are always a good bet too.The Tial 50mm style are the style I prefer though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hks, the nipple came out, parts missing,
rfl's that the plunger doesnt move freely and causes to stall because it sticks open.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, the main bad reviews are for the HKS style, i'll stay away.

 

I have a knock off 50mm on my car and I've seen a lot of people using them lately. I haven't heard anything bad about them really.

 

Something i'll look in to then. I dislike how it attaches though, i hate V-band.

 

greddy knock off suck and same with RFL knockoff so ya dont buy either of those

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something i'll look in to then. I dislike how it attaches though, i hate V-band.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow you hate the second best way to seal a pipe coupling? well third if you count welding? that and the wiggins are the best.