ok just curious... who would and who wouldnt run LSvtec? give reasons you think its bad/good etc.... thank you

 

it's worth it...but have it done correctly the first time around or you'll suffer later. basic ls/vtec swaps (ls bottom w/vtec head slap on) in a hatch can give you low 14's. my buddy's CR/vtec in a 90 civic hatch dials in mid to high 13's all day.

 

from what i have heard, do not rev the ish out of it.
also what makes a good ls/vtec? what must one do to ensure a good quality conversion. anyone can spend a lot of money for a "good" ls/vtec conversion but how can you tell the difference between a good or bad job??????

 

just do a good job and BUILD IT YOURSELF, so that you know that a good job was done (and if you dont know how...maybe you shouldnt be doing it!)

 

If you'll be taking it to 8000 and beyond, be sure to use upgraded rod bolts, the LS rod bolts stretch and become brittle, eventually breaking.

 

I would'nt do it. It's just not as reliable as a true VTEC motor.
Plus, nobody builds them right (ie. no block girdle, no oil squirters, etc....). Just my opinion on the subject......

 

if done right it can make a good amount of power, and you have to do it right but that i like everything DO IT RIGHT!!!! or you will pay. dont take short cuts get good quality parts and do it right ls vtec

 

You are correct about not many people doing it right. IF done properly, it is a mean setup. I just finished a B20 vtec with 12.5:1 Endyns, eagle rods, Z10 block girdle, drilled, tapped, oil squirters. If done properly, there are no worries. The kid that I built it for says the torque is amazing. When I was breaking it in the car, at half throttle and low RPMs, that thing was faster than my wifes LS at WOT.

 

It's only really worth the hassle of it if you're going to do other stuff to it at the time of building. Such as high compression pistons, balanced crank, ported/polished head. Also, there are some oil or water passages that you've got to block off and then redrill in another spot, and if that's not done right, you'll wind up with a motor that leaks like a sieve (sp?). Also, if you don't install the oil squirters (they're for cooling, not lubrication) you'll need to run your car rich if you put a lot of aftermarket parts on. Friend of mine had to bump his fuel pressure up on his lsvtec after he installed the JG/Edelbrock victor x manifold. If you still want to do one, just make sure it is done RIGHT. That's the biggest thing. And you have to keep a very watchful eye on all your fluids. So if you're lookin for OEM reliability, you probably should move on to a gsr or type-r motor

 

I really dont see a reason to make an LS/VTEX unless you already have an LS in your car to begin with. In that case, yeah its a cheap way to make power but in anycase its not as good as a true VTEC motor. Many people argue that a CRVtec and LSVtec give you a lot of good torque, but thats only because of the increase in displacment. The LS and CRV block are not as strong as the VTEC blocks and in order to make a strong motor that can take the higher revs you have to spend money on various things such as the Z10 block brace and drilling and tapping oil lines. If you really are willing to go through all that trouble, y not just get a B18C block resleeved for an 84mm bore? The only reason y LSVtecs are so popular is because the sheer number of stolen motors floating around... They can use the blocks so they just rip the heads off and sell it to someone to use in an LSvtec setup. I dunno just my opinion.

 

whoa yeah i was thinking its to much of a hassle as well... i just never had personal experience... hence the post... to get others info.. my thoughts would be a true VTEC motor now thanks guys

 

 

Increased displacment does yield more torque as one of the benefits.

And if you are willing to go through the trouble of resleeving a B18c block to 84mm, why not get a B20 block resleeved to 89mm? It will be cheaper and make more power and torque.

 

i plan on doing this down the line, when i get money

 

I'd rather just buy a B18C

 

I would rather bore a GSR block to 84mm because than a B20 block to 89mm because, sure it makes more displacement, but the LS/B20 block is NOT I repeat NOT meant for high revving so no matter what you'll have problems. How many companies make pistons for 89mm bore anyway?

 

here is another ?? on ls/vtec .
what are the gains went you make and ls motor to ls/vtec with a b16 head, and the car is automatic? (not my car) friend of mine

 

he doesnt have to waste his time shifting gears X= hahahahah

 

i just test drove two of my buddy's cars today after they were done tuning them and one has the B20 vtec i was talking about and the other has the ls/vtec and both of them have B18c1 trannys with lsd and those two cars are F&#@ing strong!! burns 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears with ease!! like i said before if done right...these are killer motors! if they weren't...why would so many people make'em or keep making them?

 

The B20 block was not meant to be reaved high. That is where the crank girdle, and the oil squirters come in to play. If I were building this correctly, a B17 crank would be added for a sick r/s ratio. Then you have a friendly r/s ratio, crank girdle, and the oil squirters; all of which the Vtec engines do as well. To each his own. I have built these and the power/torque gains of these versus other setups is amazing. There are 2 companies that I know that are special making 89mm pistons. They arent cheap, but they are custom.

 

i say to hell with the ls/vtec because no matter how good u build it it's still not gonna last as long as a true vtec motor.

 

i have done alot of talking to people about frakenstien setups and how they yeild alot of power. they are definitly capable of more than people think. although there are misconceptions of r/s ratio, ask some of the fastest racers on the strip and streets about thier setups. a good majority of them are running these types of setups.

check out http://www.b20vtec.com, these guys just built a fully built jun 3 b20vtec crx. but before that they built a simple lsvtec hatchback with mainly hondaparts and got it to consistant 12.3 and those were pure all motor setups. dont forget that these motors are crazy for forced induction as well, just ask Incognito on here who ran a blazing 11.4 in his lsvtec at 9psi.

personally i finished my b20vtec about 2 months ago. 12:5 compression total non ported or chamber matched, je pistons, crower rods, 97 type r head with stock cams. i was tuning on the dyno and made 217hp with an open header, so i was happy about that. i havent ran it yet, but when i take off on the street i leave a good 25 ft. or possibly more trail of rubber buring through the gears. and with everyone saying you cant rev theses motors high, i rev to about 8400 ONLY because thats all i need to rev to. but i can definitly rev higher, theres just no need to.

i love my new motor, my previous motor was a toda spec B 97 B18C5 and that cant compare to my new setup. the torque and the powerband is totally different. i dont reccomend these types of motors if they are half assed and built like ****. they definitly need alot of TLC to be run to potential.

 

aside from the cost, would you guys trust any company to build the motor for you?? (i.e. importbuilders, JG engine dynamics, etc. etc.)

 

ls/vtec is fast. i know cuz my friend had that setup in his rex and he smoked me by 5 cars. i have a b18c in my 93 cx. but, if ls/vtec is so great how come honda never made ls-vtec motors to begin with? that my thought on ls/vtec.

 

has anyone done an h23(non-vtec) block with an h22a head? cuase if it works then hot damn thats gotta be one powerful engine