AEM Pulleys..
What are your thoughts on AEM pulleys for my del sol? I heard from one person that they are fine, someone else is saying that it's not worth putting them on the car bc they will mess my engine up? Any input on this would be greatly appreciated
they're 50 bucks for the set or 20 for just the ps. And yes it's a stock motor
, but I'm working on fixing that. I've got intake and exhaust. Looking for headers currently. soon to be getting a clutch and brake upgrade. but dreaming of a turbo
, but I'm working on fixing that. I've got intake and exhaust. Looking for headers currently. soon to be getting a clutch and brake upgrade. but dreaming of a turbo
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really dont see the point, especially if its a stock motor *shrugs*
Waste of money IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>
I definately agree.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE OP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they're 50 bucks for the set or 20 for just the ps.
Like previously stated, a waste of money. Use the $50 for gas or something.
And yes it's a stock motor , but I'm working on fixing that. I've got intake and exhaust.
That doesn't make your car mildly modified, it's still stock
Looking for headers currently. soon to be getting a clutch and brake upgrade.
Headers are a waste of $$.
Brakes have nothing to do with your motor, but you don't need an aftermarket clutch or aftermarket brakes unless you swap motors or turbo the crap outta the motor you have
but dreaming of a turbo/
So dream away, but research this topic first, before swooping into something that some people can easily be overwhelmed by.
</TD></TR></TABLE>.
Waste of money IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>
I definately agree.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE OP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they're 50 bucks for the set or 20 for just the ps.
Like previously stated, a waste of money. Use the $50 for gas or something.
And yes it's a stock motor , but I'm working on fixing that. I've got intake and exhaust.
That doesn't make your car mildly modified, it's still stock
Looking for headers currently. soon to be getting a clutch and brake upgrade.
Headers are a waste of $$.
Brakes have nothing to do with your motor, but you don't need an aftermarket clutch or aftermarket brakes unless you swap motors or turbo the crap outta the motor you have
but dreaming of a turbo/
So dream away, but research this topic first, before swooping into something that some people can easily be overwhelmed by.
</TD></TR></TABLE>.
I didn't sat it was mildly modded. Where did that come from? I said right there that it is stock. Sadly stock. 
As for the brakes, I am a bit of a noob, but I do understand that brakes have nothing to do with the motor. I just need new brakes because my car needs new brakes. Same thing with the clutch. I simply need a new clutch. So I figure since I do plan on one day not being a stock motor, I should probably spend the extra money now and get a stage 1 rather than just a replacement.
As for the headers, do you think 50 bucks for headers would still be a waste, just to have a lil something til i boost?

As for the brakes, I am a bit of a noob, but I do understand that brakes have nothing to do with the motor. I just need new brakes because my car needs new brakes. Same thing with the clutch. I simply need a new clutch. So I figure since I do plan on one day not being a stock motor, I should probably spend the extra money now and get a stage 1 rather than just a replacement.
As for the headers, do you think 50 bucks for headers would still be a waste, just to have a lil something til i boost?
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Anything other than a K&N drop in filter is going to be a waste. I/H/E isn't going to make the car any faster. If anything you will find it louder and more annoying. You may also think that the car is faster based on the "butt dyno".
For brakes, you can get some autozone rotors with a good pad and good DOT fluid. For your clutch, the performance marketplace had my Exedy OEM replacement clutch for my D166... 115 shipped.
For brakes, you can get some autozone rotors with a good pad and good DOT fluid. For your clutch, the performance marketplace had my Exedy OEM replacement clutch for my D166... 115 shipped.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GG99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">god damn its a header
not headers.
as for the aem pullys, you wont really notice anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry. It's one of those words that I consistently screw up. Kinda like ppl say Krystals when its Krystal. My bad.
not headers.
as for the aem pullys, you wont really notice anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry. It's one of those words that I consistently screw up. Kinda like ppl say Krystals when its Krystal. My bad.
I just want to put a disclaimer out there that says i am aware of the fact that my car is slow, and that it will take something major to make it fast. All of these questions are in order to make it just a lil less slow.
The thing is that in order to achieve your goals of going turbo you cant set yourself back in terms of funds. Wasting money on stuff that is only going to satisfy you in the "now" is only going to make going turbo in the way "later". You could easily spend around 600-1k on I/H/E. With that money you could be that much closer to having a turbo kit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony Starks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a N1 crank pulley and kill your power steering. Otherwise leave the balanced OEM system alone. Your engine bearings will thank you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for the sake of your oil pump, keep the o.e. pulley.
the N1 or the unorthodox pulley is great for a race engine that is built and balanced, and an oil pump that has billet gears, but for a d.d. you run the risk of breaking the oil pump.
search the F.i. forum and see all the failures.
for the sake of your oil pump, keep the o.e. pulley.
the N1 or the unorthodox pulley is great for a race engine that is built and balanced, and an oil pump that has billet gears, but for a d.d. you run the risk of breaking the oil pump.
search the F.i. forum and see all the failures.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thing is that in order to achieve your goals of going turbo you cant set yourself back in terms of funds. Wasting money on stuff that is only going to satisfy you in the "now" is only going to make going turbo in the way "later". You could easily spend around 600-1k on I/H/E. With that money you could be that much closer to having a turbo kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point. I argue with my boyfriend about that all the time. But I already have exhaust and intake. The exhaust was 250. The intake was a gift from Daddy. And if I got the header it'd be 50 bucks. So $300 total costs for I/H/E. As soon as I get a nice chunk of money that I have coming, I am going to be actively looking for a turbo set up for my car
. I should get the money around the beginning of December. That's why I am thinking I should probably save the 50 bucks since it's only gonna be a few months more.
And thanks for everyones input about the pulleys. I am gonna just 86 that whole route and leave them alone. I don't want my **** to break
Good point. I argue with my boyfriend about that all the time. But I already have exhaust and intake. The exhaust was 250. The intake was a gift from Daddy. And if I got the header it'd be 50 bucks. So $300 total costs for I/H/E. As soon as I get a nice chunk of money that I have coming, I am going to be actively looking for a turbo set up for my car
. I should get the money around the beginning of December. That's why I am thinking I should probably save the 50 bucks since it's only gonna be a few months more.And thanks for everyones input about the pulleys. I am gonna just 86 that whole route and leave them alone. I don't want my **** to break
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony Starks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a N1 crank pulley and kill your power steering. Otherwise leave the balanced OEM system alone. Your engine bearings will thank you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
uh you do realize that the N1 pulley doesn't have a harmonic dampening device...
uh you do realize that the N1 pulley doesn't have a harmonic dampening device...
Wow. Flamefest. I should have been more clear. If you are going to do any pulley swapping, make it the N1. The UR underdrive is proven ****. The OEM CTR N1 damages some motors and benefits some. I'm not going to get into the pulley debate. Seemed to me he was looking to swap pulleys on a budget.
I've used both pulleys mentioned. My GSR made 425whp @ 14psi using the N1. My LS made 302whp @8psi with a bone stock block. This motor was killed by a UR underdrive. I currently use the OEM B16 pulley on my B16B. I like power steering.
Its hit or miss from what I've actually seen with the N1. Do what you will with this info.
I've used both pulleys mentioned. My GSR made 425whp @ 14psi using the N1. My LS made 302whp @8psi with a bone stock block. This motor was killed by a UR underdrive. I currently use the OEM B16 pulley on my B16B. I like power steering.
Its hit or miss from what I've actually seen with the N1. Do what you will with this info.
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